Hi guys bit of a lurker on here rather than a poster but this forum has saved my behind more times than I can count already by using the search function but I've got a bit of an issue that I wanted to run past you.
Vehicle is a 56 plate tdv6 manual gearbox. 72k on the clock.
When towing my classic car shell home from the fabrication guys workshop yesterday I was experiencing a very harsh judder in 6th gear when sat at a steady 60mph and also when accelerating to account for some of the fairly long but not overly steep hills. Come off the throttle and coast, the judder immediately goes.
I dropped back to 50-55mph and down to 5th gear and the judder was not so bad but still showed up in the same manner, steady and accelerating its there but not when coasting.
In all other gears there was no judder that I could feel when either accelerating or maintaining a steady speed.
With an empty trailer after unloading the car there was no judder that I could feel either, I even stuck it in 5th at 40mph and accelerated. And when I dropped the car off at the fabricators 5 months ago I didn't experience any issues then, same trailer.
Now I've been experiencing some minor judder issues when cold first thing in the morning which I've put down to the dual mass flywheel or fluid on the plate. Once warmed up its fine for the rest of the day. However this morning the judder was considerably worse until it warmed up so clearly its not liked being worked hard yesterday.
Given the symptoms I've been experiencing when towing would you put this down to the worn DMF clutch assembly as well? in which case a new clutch & DMF is definitely due or is there something else I may need to look at?
I did look at other threads mainly auto box judder issues but some suggestions that cropped up were front wishbones and seizing callipers. I had my lowers replaced in September last year and it had complete new rear brakes, discs, callipers, carriers, epb shoes etc. about 4 weeks ago following a seized calliper so can rule those issues out.
I'd appreciate your thoughts on this one
Cheers,
CW
PS Sorry for the super long post!
5th Feb 2019 3:51 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4627
Did you check the centre prop shaft bearing?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Start by getting the injector balances checked with a code reader as it might be an injector failing giving a misfire. Only takes few minutes once you find someone with a reader.D1 300TDI ES. just kept going, sold at 170k miles, body beginning to rust
D2 TD5 GS. sold at 140k, chassis beginning to rust
D3 TDV6 SE. 194k Still going.
5th Feb 2019 7:48 pm
CurlyWurly90
Member Since: 09 Aug 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 7
Cheers for the initial response guys,
I'll get under and check the centre prop bearing for any play when I get a chance.
Regarding the injector balances, I've got an IID tool so popped that on this morning on start up and again before switching off after my morning commute, results were as follows
I had the same symptoms but changed a few parts together so can't be sure which was actually causing the vibration.
1 One injector was at max limit. new injector.
2 Rear prop centre bearing saging, almost touching the metal frame. new prop.
3 DMF. grease radiating from centre mechanism. new DMF and clutch
4 Crank position sensor bolt was half turn loose.
My D3 has had the DMF changed at 80k and 150k so I would guess you are at the mileage where it may need to be replaced.D1 300TDI ES. just kept going, sold at 170k miles, body beginning to rust
D2 TD5 GS. sold at 140k, chassis beginning to rust
D3 TDV6 SE. 194k Still going.
9th Feb 2019 11:08 pm
CurlyWurly90
Member Since: 09 Aug 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 7
Thanks for all the responses.
I've checked the prop centre bearing and its got circa 1/4" of play in each direction but the rubber is still intact.
Sounds like it could be combination of both clutch assembly and prop so the plan is to get the clutch/DMF changed first as it is certainly due and then replace the propshaft afterwards.
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but I've got a bit of an issue that I wanted to run past you.
