- You are currently viewing DISCO3.CO.UK as a guest - Register to take part or Log In
Tawny Owl
Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1645
  
|
hotrocks , that's good news 
Was it easy to put the cleaner through , what was involved ?
|
 7th Feb 2010 10:20 pm |
|
|
hotrocks
Member Since: 05 Jan 2010
Location: England
Posts: 467
  
|
Hi TawnyOwl,
I was planning to take photos and post the process on here... but I forgot my camera on the day... Doh!
The process was easy (I am no mechanic so did it at a friends garage so if I got stuck he could help).
Basically, stick the vehicle on a four poster or over a pit if possible, makes it loads easier.
Drop of all the under body panels covering the engine bay, transmission etc
Take off the passenger side front wheel.
Unbolt the exhaust from the back of the turbo, its a bit tight but by dropping the passenger front wheel you can get to the top bolt and a socket with long extension gets the bottom ones from underneath.
The hardest bit of the whole job was heating up the studs on the exhaust as they were solid.
Drop the exhaust down and back so the back of the turbo outlet is visible, we used a block of wood wedged in the chassis to hold it out the way.
You then take the gasket from the exhaust and draw around it on the cardboard blanking plate provided int he kit, make a small hole in the bit you cut out and insert the pipe supplied.
Back under the vehicle, put the cardboard blanking plate over the turbo outlet and bolt the gasket on top to hold it in place.
Attach the first aerosol (turbo cleaner) to the other end of the pipe (it has an aerosol cap attached to it), depress the cap and put about a 1/3 of the cleaning fluid into the turbo, leave for 10 minutes, then fill turbo with the rest of the fluid, wait 45 minutes.
While waiting take the fuel filter off and clean/fill with the fuel cleaner provided, chuck any left over in the fuel tank.
After 45 minutes, undo studs on turbo outlet, release any surplus fluid (some evaporates and some turns to slush as it cleans).
Attach tube to second aerosol (rinsing agent) and thoroughly spray and clean the inside of the turbo.
Reattach the exhaust and fire her up!
Just dont forget to put the wheel back on before you go anywhere 
I found the whole thing pretty painless, just don't stand directly under the turbo when you rinse it, if you get the stuff near your eye it hurts and a quick dash to the loo to rinse your face is in order!
So far I am impressed and really do think it has solved my issue, everyone I have spoken to has suggested it was a sticking turbo vane caused by carbon deposits probably caused by running it over the last 30 k on nothing but Tesco fuel - I have now switched to Shell V Power and it runs loads better.
Hope that helps
|
| 7th Feb 2010 10:38 pm |
|
|
hotrocks
Member Since: 05 Jan 2010
Location: England
Posts: 467
|
I forgot to say, during the 45 minutes the cleaning stuff is in the turbo, we switched the ignition on for a couple of minutes every 10 minutes to ensure the turbo had a chance to go through the vane alignment cycle I was told it did, this meant that the vanes were moving in the fluid and helped ensure a through clean - so I believe 
|
| 7th Feb 2010 10:42 pm |
|
|
Tawny Owl
Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1645
|
Cheers hotrocks , sounds successful
Thanks for sharing the info , pics would have been good but sounds very straight forward without them
Result for you 
|
| 7th Feb 2010 10:58 pm |
|
|
DingMark
Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Perth Oz or Erbil, Iraq
Posts: 388
 
|
Nicely written procedure. It may have been for the best that no pictures were taken. The combination of volatile hydrocarbon cleaner and electronic camera+flash (nice ignition source) may have cleaned more than the turbo  Jim Dowell - D4 HSE TDi, 12,000 hydraulic winch & hidden winch mount, MTRs, TyreDog, Traxide 2 x aux battery system, fixed air compressor, Dolium roof rack, MitchHitch.
RIP 2005 D3 HSE V8 5 seater gold (stolen and torched)
|
| 8th Feb 2010 4:25 am |
|
|
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
 
|
Have to say, im a bit sceptical about things like these, that claim a fix for a tiny amount of cash (compared to the cost of a 'proper' repair). However, I also said the same about a porous block on a V8 P38 RR, until the guy gave me some of this to try...
Was gonna cost best part of 3k for a recon engine, or £30 for that stuff. Had my doubts, but it worked, and is still going strong today...
ATEOTD though, got to be worth a try before shelling out a huge amount of cash... My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
|
| 8th Feb 2010 7:56 am |
|
|
amber7472
Member Since: 14 Jan 2010
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 6
|
Just had the same with mine and the same thoughts as you, after much research it went to a local 4x4 specialist - but changing the Turbo was not the full issue - The veins had stuck - gunked up due to old software being run, once the new Turbo was fitted a new update was patched to (as i was told) move the thing through a full cycle. My issue with all of this was - why did the dealer not update this at last service - is it a typical LR fault like the petrol freelander had with head gaskets? LR know, but will only do when asked or indeed paid for.
Love any LR - just would like an honest customer care.
|
| 9th Feb 2010 5:15 pm |
|
|
|
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
|
|
DISCO3.CO.UK Copyright © 2004-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
|
|
