Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 6
Installing new brake lines (rear section) drop the exhaust?
Hello Everyone!
I have dreaded brake line corrosion issue (leaking), so I'll be replacing both rear mid-rear sections of the lines. I'm going to cut the lines from the midpoint and replace with copper nickel lines this weekend.
I saw a video on youtube and he cut off the exhaust to gain easier access to the heat shields and brake lines. I can cut off the exhaust (then re-install w/ sleeves) but was wondering if this is overkill and there is enough access with the exhaust in place? Also where does everyone cut the lines?
I'm apologize if this has been posted elsewhere and didn't see it.
Thank You
29th Apr 2024 5:40 pm
Mikeynoclue
Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 6
I read through some older post and some said removing the exhaust is not required, but other did remove.
If I decide to remove the exhaust are there any "tricks" to make the removal easier?
Thanks so much.
Mike
29th Apr 2024 6:12 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2346
If the V8 exhaust is similar to the TDV6 one, you would struggle to access to cut and flare the pipe ends in the ideal area, unless you replace the pipes from much further forward than necessary. I sprayed penetrating oil into the exhaust sleeved joint (after undoing the clamp) and used a large hide faced mallet to knock the front of the centre silencer backwards, whilst twisting it a bit too. It did take a lot of effort…I also tied the exhaust pipes up at the back end (after undoing from the hangers) to support it while I persuaded the front end apart. I found removing the rubber hangers very difficult, so I purchased an exhaust hanger removal tool which made things a lot easier ( thanks ‘highlands’ )…Here’s where I joined mine……
Click image to enlarge
D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
29th Apr 2024 7:07 pm
Mikeynoclue
Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 6
Thank You DN!
First, beautiful job on your new lines. Looks great.
Bummer, seems like I'm gonna to have to remove the exhaust. Seems like it will require some "urging" to get the pipes to separate, but I will purchase the exhaust hanger removal tool.
Question: Where exactly did you connect the new line with the old one, using the front and rad doors as a reference point?
Thanks again!
29th Apr 2024 7:34 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2346
Hi Mike, thanks. Approximately a foot or so behind the front edge of the rear door. Between two cross members underneath. Compare your suspension compressor lower cover with mine in my pic, to give a rough guide. I staggered the line connectors, so they wouldn’t chafe. As you’d expect, the steel line ends are tougher to flare than copper nickel. Forgot to say, that I managed to pull the corroded lines out without bending them excessively, so that I could make up and bend as original, the new lines ( by cable tieing the new to the old as I went. ) If the exhaust was in place, I doubt you would be able to remove the old lines intact. Be aware, that the 2 lines cross at one point, so what you thought was a left hand line, ends up on the right, and vice versa. Good Luck.D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
29th Apr 2024 7:52 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 420
I've just done mine, joining old to new in the same location, but without removing the exhaust. It is a bit of a fiddle, but entirely do-able. Admittedly my finished job is nowhere near as neat as DN's. I used steel pipe, rather than cupro-nickel.
The only issue I had was that the first time I flared the end of the old pipe, the end bent slightly and I couldn't straighten it enough to get the connector back up to the flare, so had to cut the pipe back a bit further and start again, being more careful not to put too much pressure on the end of the pipe while flaring it.Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
30th Apr 2024 6:08 am
Mikeynoclue
Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 6
Thank You DN and Worms!
Yes I see the compressor lower cover now Now I have a reference point. I'll definitely look out for the crossed pipes and I'll decide on removing the exhaust when under the LR3..
My job won't be winning me car shows lol but if in the relatively stock location and functional I'll be happy
30th Apr 2024 11:39 am
Mikeynoclue
Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 6
Hello everyone
Well the job is done! I changed out all the brake lines from the middle of the LR3 to the calipers.. I used copper nickel lines and new rubber hoses. We left the exhaust i place and it was a little tight but manageable.. I used the capri brake line flare too. Awesome! Idiot Proof perrrfect for me
The only thing is the brake pedal “feel”.. it’s catching a little lower than I’d like. Once it catches perfect..
Any tricks to get that final 5-10% air out. Yes I’m very picky. Lol I used a pressure bleeder and did the old school two man way also.
On my bmw 1100rt motorcycle I zipped tied the front brake pedal closed and kept it like that overnight and that got my brake pedal feel perfect!
Thanks so much!
11th May 2024 9:58 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 420
I used the ABS bleed function on the GAP tool to bleed mine, then for good measure replaced the master cylinder, because it still didn't feel as good as I would like. I'm not sure you can bleed the ABS module without a diagnostic tool.Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
12th May 2024 6:10 pm
Mikeynoclue
Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 6
Thank You Worms!
I have an Autel Maxi and JLR Software v1.3,. I never used the ABS bleed function, so I'll check it out.
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)…Here’s where I joined mine……
Now I have a reference point. I'll definitely look out for the crossed pipes and I'll decide on removing the exhaust when under the LR3..
