Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
High Pressure fuel pump replacement
Looking for a bit of advice on the above, found instructions in an old post on EU3 pump removal but wanted to know what was different about EU4 removal?
Can anyone enlighten me?
Instructions posted for the EU3;
HPFP belt off
Little M6 bolt (8mm head) holding the plastic cover to the pump
Fuel pipes off (plastic and metal)
Oil filter out
Breather canister thing comes out. Just!
4x M8 (10mm head) bolts holding the pump onto the engine
17th Oct 2018 10:42 pm
Dan1720v
Member Since: 28 Mar 2018
Location: Street/Somerset
Posts: 176
Eu4 is a timed pump. So TDC the engine and locking tools in (you only really need to do the cams.) time up the new pump and the belt install.
Eu4 is not timed, the only timed belt is on the D4 rear belt. its more or less the same as the Eu3, but more fiddly with more bits to remove. Just takes a bit longer.
Flack
18th Oct 2018 10:03 am
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Thanks for that Flack, did not think it was timed, I take it there are still just 4 bolts holding the pump onto the engine and then just remove as is with the EU3?
18th Oct 2018 11:20 am
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Could anyone advise if the pump should be difficult to lift out once everything is stripped off?
I have taken 4 main bolts from the pump which seemed to be the ones needed to be removed to get the pump out but it still seems solid, there is a plate in front of the pump that I have also removed the bolts from but this will not come away on it's own either...
Any advise please as car is sitting and I am waiting to put new pump in but don't want to cause any damage forcing pump out.
Thanks
29th Oct 2018 10:28 am
Dave1983
Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 12
Did mine a few weeks ago the biggest pain I thought was getting that black plastic oil breather out, the pump bad two bolts at the back of the pump I left the bracket in place and they was two t45 bolts around the sprocket then it lifted out no problem and new popped straight in
29th Oct 2018 1:57 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
I have taken these out but the pump seems to be stuck there, cannot see what is holding it in place either.
29th Oct 2018 2:25 pm
Dave1983
Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 12
Hmm the more I think about it now have you taken the couple of 8mm bolts out what holds the black plastic guard from around the pump sprocket n try taking the bracket out completely from the pump in the v
29th Oct 2018 2:36 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
going to have another look, I must have missed something.
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
29th Oct 2018 3:36 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
So, apart from being a bit of a dope, I left a t45 bolt still in place (That's the perils of doing the job with someone else and you both think that you have done it) the replacement pump is now in place.
Just need to fit the belt, connect all the electrics back up and OH, YES... buy another leak off assembly as the clever people from the garage that done the top end rebuild bodged the thing back together with jubilee clips....
Best get onto eBay tonight and start searching....
29th Oct 2018 6:28 pm
Spada
Member Since: 20 Feb 2021
Location: Sydney
Posts: 4
Does HPFP swap need re-calibrating?
Hi all. I've been searching everywhere for an answer but to no avail. It seems that replacing the HPFP although fiddly, is relatively straight forward. You brave people who have replaced the HPFP, I'd be very keen to know, does the car computer need to be re-calibrated to the new pump or is it a simple swap? Much appreciate any feedback on this as it is driving me nuts. Mine is the later EU4 (LR017367 Fuel Injection Pump). I'm keen to get on with the job but hesitant as I don't have the kit to re-calibrate.
Thanks,
Spada
20th Feb 2021 2:18 am
Dave1983
Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 12
Change the pump clear the fault code and your good to go thats all I did
20th Feb 2021 2:30 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
As above, there's no special requirements to observe other than the usual safety precautions when working on high pressure fuel systems! Make sure you bleed the low pressure side via the schrader valve, by cycling the ign two or three times until all the air has been expelled.
Then turn the key until it fires, run for a few minutes then switch off and check for leaks yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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