Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
Apologises , ref that pic
Indeed thought the same with the small amount of area
Also noticed for the first time after having to fit new valves that when I raised or lowered the suspension the valve block solenoid would open and close extremely quickly
Which made a lot of sense , as if it just opened the air would drop very quickly so learnt that it’s speed was paramount to how it adjusted the suspension
Think ur be surprised when testing the valve blocks if they actually hold up with a pressure / vacuum test
Also before I forget , inspect the ends of the pipes as even a small gouge in them can cause a leak
Handy having a bottle of washing up liquid handy, along with the garden sprayers that have the long nozzle, easier to each the top of the air bag connections
Plse let me know how u get on and what links etc u need
Start with the pipes at the reservoir valve , remove front and rear and test them separately , then ur see if both or just one drops , can then concentrate on what u find , if just the front drops , go to that valve block , with then having to remove each air bag line, testing each one in turn
Then the back and same process , once u have the circuit airtight can then restest at the reservoir valve block end to ensure the entire circuit to front and rear are sound
Bet the valves have been letting by for ages , just a leak has shown it up
Hope it helps mate
7th Apr 2021 8:59 pm
reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
Thanks Gary - I got a new tank this morning from the ebay link you put up. I figured that even if mine wasn't leaking, it wouldn't last much longer as it was quite corroded.
One thing I notice with these replacement o rings for the valve blocks is that they all seem a little smaller and slightly thinner than the originals - I bought them from the same place on ebay everyone on here uses.
I removed the pipes from the reservoir valve today to change the seals and thinking about it, it didnt let any air out until I released the one to the reservoir so that suggests that those seals were actually ok?! Now, interestingly, with all of that disconnected the bags still had air in them when I put it all back together - may have dropped a little but I was expecting the system to be vented of air but it wasnt.
I am inclined to test that rear right air bag that is dropping the most - I have sprayed with soapy water but the bag itself isnt really exposed as it has covers top, middle and bottom, so how can I test that easily?
If you have links to the kit you used to build your test kit Gary then that would be really handy. I have a compressor but not the other bits of airline/gauges in your pictures. I want to test as you say otherwise its an expensive overhaul for just replacing parts.
One interesting thing is that there is not a lot of desiccant powder in my lines. I was expecting more but perhaps the PO did have that changed - he wasn't too shoddy with the maintenance.
7th Apr 2021 9:26 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
Ur so welcome
Great idea ref the tank as indeed would be Sod’s law if u left it and then split across the top after doing all the hard work
For O rings I also used some plumbers clear silicone silicone grease, used just a smear on each O ring but alas for some reason still failed testing
That’s awesome u haven’t got the desiccant powder throughout the system, might be an idea to see what condition it’s in , maybe replace the desiccant and filters in the dryer so that’s all done
Here’s some links , most of the pipe going to and forth the valve blocks will be 6mm
First , Schrader valves , there pushfit fit 6mm , quality is good and has a protective cap , they come as a pair
6mm pushfit pipe , bought around 25m so could then bring the airlines out from underneath the disco making it safer , can indeed get this from anywhere
Plus used these to replace the very expensive voss connectors , blimey it made life considerably easier , just need to make sure the ends of the pipes are , free from gouges and are cut square
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
Perfect. Thanks so much for those. I will get some bits purchased tomorrow.
Quick final question for tonight, is everything 6mm? I thought I saw 8mm pipe mentioned somewhere too?
8th Apr 2021 12:39 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
Ur so welcome
Plus before I forget plse if u haven’t got one is a plastic pipe cutter
The only bit as far as I’m aware is the air filter inlet that goes into the dryer cap, rest of the pipe that goes to and forth via the valve blocks/ air struts is 6mm
Awesome and plse let us know what u find and at least this way ur know 100% what’s leaking or not
8th Apr 2021 3:38 am
reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
Update....
So last night I spent a lot more time with the soapy water spray on the back end - including taking the rubber boots off of the rear bags. It showed absolutely nothing.
So i thought I would change the seals in the rear valve block anyway. Which utter idiot decided that was a sensible location needs a good talking to!!
The result this morning after 12 hours with the self levelling disabled:
The rear hasnt dropped at all. Front on both sides has gone down exactly 1cm (which makes me wonder if i recorded the measurements wrong for the front)
9th Apr 2021 12:47 pm
Marques.a
Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Belo Horizonte
Posts: 10
Hello Gary,
Thank you very much for your guidance!
I had a problem with my suspension that could not solve anything, with your help I was able to solve it. My case was an 8 mm tube that was in the pump at the top that was punctured.
Grateful, hugs.
23rd Apr 2021 5:42 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
reb78 wrote:
Update....
So last night I spent a lot more time with the soapy water spray on the back end - including taking the rubber boots off of the rear bags. It showed absolutely nothing.
So i thought I would change the seals in the rear valve block anyway. Which utter idiot decided that was a sensible location needs a good talking to!!
The result this morning after 12 hours with the self levelling disabled:
The rear hasnt dropped at all. Front on both sides has gone down exactly 1cm (which makes me wonder if i recorded the measurements wrong for the front)
Am well pleased u got it resolved
Indeed that rear valve block is a swine, using a short spanner helped , then I fitted some of the brass pushfits which made life a lot easier
23rd Apr 2021 5:45 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
Marques.a wrote:
Hello Gary,
Thank you very much for your guidance!
I had a problem with my suspension that could not solve anything, with your help I was able to solve it. My case was an 8 mm tube that was in the pump at the top that was punctured.
Grateful, hugs.
Ur so welcome , alas learnt the hard way along with the awesome help I got from here when I had to rebuild all of mine and so nice being able to pass it on
Well chuffed and thks for letting us know it helped
23rd Apr 2021 5:47 pm
reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
gstuart wrote:
reb78 wrote:
Update....
So last night I spent a lot more time with the soapy water spray on the back end - including taking the rubber boots off of the rear bags. It showed absolutely nothing.
So i thought I would change the seals in the rear valve block anyway. Which utter idiot decided that was a sensible location needs a good talking to!!
The result this morning after 12 hours with the self levelling disabled:
The rear hasnt dropped at all. Front on both sides has gone down exactly 1cm (which makes me wonder if i recorded the measurements wrong for the front)
Am well pleased u got it resolved
Indeed that rear valve block is a swine, using a short spanner helped , then I fitted some of the brass pushfits which made life a lot easier
Swine is the word for sure!!
Now... the front is definitely dropping slowly. Its like 1cm on both sides over 12 hours. Any hunches on what this is likely to be? The seals in the front valve block were done about 18months ago I think. Because it is dropping evenly on both sides it seems in my mine to point to a common place between the two front bags... I wonder if I ahould replace that front valve block??
As an aside, Bearmach valve blocks are around £70, genuine around double that. Is this a genuine part only or will aftermarket last ok?
24th Apr 2021 3:25 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
Hiya
Had the same with my valve blocks after rebuilding them, used that hand vacuum pump and they wouldn’t hold vacuum so in the end replaced all 3 x with new valve blocks
Also tested all the air lines from the reservoir valve block to the front valve block and pipes inbetween front struts etc just to double check
The way I thought was with the vehicle off and F26 fuse removed the seals shouldn’t allow any air to pass but alas they did and indeed proved it 100% with the vacuum test , just found it such an invaluable tool to have
Just checked , did fit genuine ones £100 for the front one , I also replaced all the voss connectors with brass pushfits
Must admit haven’t heard bad things about the bearmach valve blocks , I just went with genuine so at least then I knew it was of good quality and not an unknown
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