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Heater issue
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JerseyD4
 


Member Since: 28 Jan 2022
Location: Jersey
Posts: 5

Jersey 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 GS Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4
Heater issue

Picked up my 2010 D4 GS yesterday.
Have an issue with the cabin heating

Passenger side vent by door blows only cold/ambient air.
Passenger side vent by centre console blows only cold/ambient air.

Driver side vent by door blows warm air.
Driver side vent by centre console blows hot air.

Temps for both sides were set the same, no difference when switched from auto to manual control.

Any advice would be welcomed.
  
Post #227600630th Jan 2022 8:14 pm
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pwheeldon
 


Member Since: 14 Jan 2020
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 1436

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

I know that the D3 heater matrix is prone to blocking with similar symptoms, I would imagine the d4 is the same. Might be worth searching for blocked matrix, see what you can find.
 Discovery 4 GS 2009 Auto Stornoway Grey
Discovery 3 s 2005 Auto Bonatti Grey Gone
Discovery 3 SE 2005 Manual Zambezi Silver Gone
Range Rover Sport HSE 2006 Black
Aston Martin DB7 VV 
 
Post #227602230th Jan 2022 9:17 pm
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JerseyD4
 


Member Since: 28 Jan 2022
Location: Jersey
Posts: 5

Jersey 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 GS Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Thanks, had a quick google and sounds like that could very well be the problem.
Hopefully a simple fix.
  
Post #227602730th Jan 2022 9:29 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Heater Matrix('s) are very common for blocking up. All the sediment settles in the LH side of the matrix, precent flow of hot coolant though what is used for the passenger side vents

Relatively easy swap on a D3, but D4 is full dash out to replace...
 My D3 Build Thread

TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread 
 
Post #227603630th Jan 2022 9:51 pm
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galwaygreen
 


Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525

United Kingdom 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Graphite LE Auto Loire BlueDiscovery 4

would chemical wash clear it...like wat is used in central heating ?
  
Post #227607831st Jan 2022 12:49 am
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gstuart
 


Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

I’ve wondered that ref chemicals etc , useto do that sometimes with aluminium heat exchangers

At the time I made up a rig, , consisting of a , pump, inline magnaclean , add chemicals , would then flush it forwards and backwards , however sometimes the matrix would pinhole

However if the pipes enter and exit at the same end will be extremely difficult getting the blockage out , even back flushing them with a hose pipe can get mixed results

I wonder if installing an inline filter screen canister would help , checking it every so often as it catches particles , Only thing is though with some of the clear filter is the flow rate and not being able to take high temperatures

Unless it was purely used separately from the vehicle as part of a rig with a pump, magnaclean and allowing it to circulate in both directions , alas don’t know how effective it would be but suppose cheaper than having to remove the entire dashboard on a D4

Out of curiosity did someone cut one open please

Apologises I’m waffling again Laughing

Picture as an example


   
Post #227608831st Jan 2022 2:44 am
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kajtzu
 


Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538

Finland 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

I’ve read pretty much every post and article on heater cores in English, American, Russian, Finnish and Swedish. Depending on the nationality of the writer, some have been quite creative with the equipment and fluids they’ve tried to flush it with. Particularly the American and Russian forums have been full of pure creativeness.

Disclaimer: this is NOT advice on what to do. This is (mostly) advice on what NOT to do if you value your vehicle, eyesight, skin, etc. DO read the MSDS documents* - the vendor has to tell you what the magic potion you’re trying to flush with uses as an active ingredient.

What won’t work when the core is in place:
- pulsating back flush with high pressure or “slightly higher than high pressure”. won’t work

- any “radiator cleaner” with citric acid. This is the “generic” stuff like STP (or “Mercedes’ Benz” white labeled). won’t work

- do NOT be creative and try blindly some other acids like sulphuric acid. It”s not good for you, it’s not good for the vehicle and as a side effect it’ll create hydrogen gas. People suggesting this do not seem to have passed a high school chemistry class. Won’t work.

- do NOT think about using hydrochloric acid. Not only is it dangerous to you, also this acid will try to convert any metal to a salt. As a side effect you’ll also get hydrogen gas. NOT what you want unless you’re Russian or American (seen this suggested by both). Won’t work.

- do NOT try a “cocktail” of trisodium phosphate and sodium salts. Exists even as a commercial product. The Na3PO4 will again react with metals. Won’t work.

What will work after you’ve removed the heater core
- replace with a new unit Whistle

*) no MSDS available for home chemistry methods or “professional Russian cleaner with secret ingredient” type of shops

We now return to our regular banter Whistle
  
Post #227626831st Jan 2022 10:41 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

The problem on these is that the dirt has to be flushed a long way up hill to get out.
And therefore it doesn’t

Some did manage to flush one out the car.
But if they are cheap enough you may as well replace
  
Post #227627231st Jan 2022 11:21 pm
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kajtzu
 


Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538

Finland 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Yes.

Thumbs Up
  
Post #227627331st Jan 2022 11:28 pm
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gstuart
 


Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

kajtzu wrote:
I’ve read pretty much every post and article on heater cores in English, American, Russian, Finnish and Swedish. Depending on the nationality of the writer, some have been quite creative with the equipment and fluids they’ve tried to flush it with. Particularly the American and Russian forums have been full of pure creativeness.

Disclaimer: this is NOT advice on what to do. This is (mostly) advice on what NOT to do if you value your vehicle, eyesight, skin, etc. DO read the MSDS documents* - the vendor has to tell you what the magic potion you’re trying to flush with uses as an active ingredient.

What won’t work when the core is in place:
- pulsating back flush with high pressure or “slightly higher than high pressure”. won’t work

- any “radiator cleaner” with citric acid. This is the “generic” stuff like STP (or “Mercedes’ Benz” white labeled). won’t work

- do NOT be creative and try blindly some other acids like sulphuric acid. It”s not good for you, it’s not good for the vehicle and as a side effect it’ll create hydrogen gas. People suggesting this do not seem to have passed a high school chemistry class. Won’t work.

- do NOT think about using hydrochloric acid. Not only is it dangerous to you, also this acid will try to convert any metal to a salt. As a side effect you’ll also get hydrogen gas. NOT what you want unless you’re Russian or American (seen this suggested by both). Won’t work.

- do NOT try a “cocktail” of trisodium phosphate and sodium salts. Exists even as a commercial product. The Na3PO4 will again react with metals. Won’t work.

What will work after you’ve removed the heater core
- replace with a new unit Whistle

*) no MSDS available for home chemistry methods or “professional Russian cleaner with secret ingredient” type of shops

We now return to our regular banter Whistle


Brilliant post mate Bow down

As a side note , saw this video a little while ago and to be honest never seen one of those guns before


Click image to enlarge


  
Post #22762991st Feb 2022 4:41 am
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