I'm in the U.S. and am trying to add a heated steering wheel to my 2008 LR3. I already have the heated wheel (from a 2009 RRS), the switch cluster and soon to arrive, a clockspring with the heating wheel power lead built into it.
Question is, I apparently still need the heated wheel ECU (a box that is tucked right into the wheel itself where the heating element connector will go into. PLUS the cable that connects the ECU to the switch to be able to turn it on and off.
Does anyone have a picture of this ECU? Do I need it for my MOD? I'm desperately looking for a solution to my dilemma.
Thanks in advance.
Vince
20th Oct 2010 11:51 am
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
Yes you need it ...
G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
20th Oct 2010 12:25 pm
vinnysca
Member Since: 11 Sep 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 13
THANK YOU, THANK YOU for the pics! That helps a whole lot!
Wish me luck that my importer can get it for me!
I'll keep you guys posted.
Vince
20th Oct 2010 5:56 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Hmmn those piccies bring back some memories.
I particularly like how the PCB inside says L322 on it
Also that the input wiring is tucked below the guide for the release hook.
If one pops up you might not be able to get the airbag out and fix it.
You seem to only get this little ECU with a heated steering wheel.
20th Oct 2010 6:46 pm
vinnysca
Member Since: 11 Sep 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 13
I'm hoping that the ECU and connecting cables can be bought separately and not as a package with the wheel. I'm sure there are instances where the ECU would become faulty at times and that it needs to be replaced. I HOPE, I HOPE, I HOPE.
Vince.
21st Oct 2010 5:46 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Sorry Vince
But i have the Microcat and have taken delivery of a few wheels in my time, and it seems you only get this little ECU as part of a heated wheel.
If you do not already have a heated wheel, you cannot just add this ECU to get it. The wheel itself must have the heater element(s) and a temperature sensor that feeds back to the ECU.
I have reverse engineered this ECU though and it's a pretty simple thing, not likely to break down
21st Oct 2010 6:38 pm
vinnysca
Member Since: 11 Sep 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 13
BBS SPY wrote:
Sorry Vince
But i have the Microcat and have taken delivery of a few wheels in my time, and it seems you only get this little ECU as part of a heated wheel.
If you do not already have a heated wheel, you cannot just add this ECU to get it. The wheel itself must have the heater element(s) and a temperature sensor that feeds back to the ECU.
I have reverse engineered this ECU though and it's a pretty simple thing, not likely to break down
Hey there,
I do have the heated wheel already as well as the switch and the clockspring is pending arrival. The only thing missing is the ECU and cables that connect the switch to the heated wheel itself.
Vince.
21st Oct 2010 10:57 pm
vinnysca
Member Since: 11 Sep 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 13
I got a call from my importer and the previous poster was correct. The ECU and cable unit cannot be purchased separately. So I ended up ordering a 2010 heated wheel which comes with the ECU and cables. My importer was nice enough to let me swap the first heated wheel I purchased from him once I receive the 2010 wheel.
Meanwhile, I was able to finally install the new CLOCKSPRING assembly for the new heated wheel (which I don't have yet) and was able to wire it.
I managed to remove the front driver side footwell cover as well as the front panel. Since I wasn't able to tap into the lighter 12 volt wires as others have done, I was able to tap into the 12 volt source from the OBD II socket under the footwell on the driver side. I made sure that it was "on and off" with ignition. It was. And I was able to tap into one of the ground wires from it as well. Removing the OBD connector was fairly easy. It was secured with 2 screws. Removing it made it easy to splice in the new connectors for the heated wheel.
The image below shows the exposed inner workings of the steering wheel column and it's wirings...
The next image shows the OBD connector removed from it's place to make splicing easier. The RED is the 12 volt and there are 2 ground (black) wires from it...
I also purchased an inline fuse (as recommended by one of the previous posters) and secured that under the footwell. I decided to use a 5 amp instead of a 10 amp fuse (just to be on the safe side)
The next image shows the new clockspring installed...
The next thing was to find a connector that would fit into the clockspring which would power the heating function. I decided to use the driverside footwell light connector which was a PERFECT fit! (Thanks to a previous poster). I then replaced the footwell light connector with a PC 2 prong connector which fit snuggly in place.
The image below shows the power feed into the clockspring for the heated wheel. Thanks to a previous poster in making clear which was the positive of the two leads...
All of the hard work is done. Thanks to all who posted previously. I am now just awaiting the arrival of the heated wheel (which will be coming with the cable and ECU)...
I will keep you guys posted...
Vince (From the U.S.)
26th Oct 2010 6:09 pm
vinnysca
Member Since: 11 Sep 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 13
Well, after waiting several weeks for the new wheel to arrive, it finally got here today. It was from a 2010 LR4 and didn't match my current wheel configuration with the switches. So, I kept the first heated wheel that I bought and removed the ECU from the new wheel and onto the other one. I hooked up everything...ECU connector into the clockspring, and switch and finally, heated wheel into the ECU. Turned the car on, then NOTHING.
The switch wouldn't light up. I checked and double checked the 12 volt source and even took a volt meter to see if the ECU had voltage going into it. I got some voltage reading from the yellow wire that goes INTO the heated wheel switch. So, I concluded that it must be a defective switch.
I contacted my importer and I am exchanging the switch cluster for another one.
I even went as far as taking the wheel with the switch and ECU all connected, and connected the power feed on the battery directly. Still, no light when I hit the steering wheel switch.
I'm so bummed. I am now hoping that it truly is a defective switch. I can't think of anything else that might be missed. I can't imagine that it was a defective ECU.
Vince
13th Nov 2010 1:09 am
bobgolden
Member Since: 16 Oct 2010
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 907
Gareth wrote:
Ok cheers. I was particularly attentive to the possibility of flappy paddle gears on a D3 8) That would be a very neat upgrade.
I suppose it would require some work to make the paddles do what the command shift does on the gear stick.
Got the flappy paddles on my XF. Great fun on the rhree or four occcassions I used them but can't rememeber the last time. Sport mode is much better.2010 MX-5 2.0 Sport Tech PRHT
2019 Suzuki Vitara AllGrip
Gone BMW X5 xDrive 30d M Sport (F15)
Gone Disco 4 HSE SD V6
Gone 2008 Jaguar XF 2.7TD Premium Luxury
13th Nov 2010 2:30 am
vinnysca
Member Since: 11 Sep 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 13
After several weeks of work and perseverance, I am happy to report that I FINALLY was able to successfully install a heated wheel in my 2008 LR3 HSE! It may have cost me a lot of money to do this mod, but it was well worth it!
I did end up tapping into my auxiliary plug for my 12 volt source. I found out that tapping into my OBD port didn't supply enough amperage for the wheel. BUT thanks to all of you in this forum who helped me make this mod a possibility! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
Vince
New Hampshire, USA
Click image to enlarge
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30th Nov 2010 5:44 pm
bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
This thread has now got very complex as its a D4 thread really and the upgrades and work needed for the D4 is totally different to whats needed on the D3.
Ahh well.
30th Nov 2010 8:38 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
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