Member Since: 13 Jun 2014
Location: south wales
Posts: 3169
So can you not use the switch packs you have until the right one's come along or spray your current ones pic's would be useful Discovery 3 se gone
Range rover sport supercharged here:)
24th Oct 2016 7:24 pm
gvw
Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
You can swap the insides of the switches around if you take them apart carefully.
Edit: mines a 59 plate and needed a new clock spring
25th Oct 2016 5:11 pm
VVS210
Member Since: 05 Aug 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 506
Sounds as if what they are selling you are the switch packs for a later model year car & my experience of fitting 2016MY switches to my 2010MY was they didn't work!
I appreciate your need but my advice would be to contact the specialist breakers like MMJ, Equicar, Skan 4x4, etc. & try & source the switches from them - they were used in RRS as well as D4 & you need the ones with embossed horn symbols not the ones with the bump with a white painted horn on them.
I ended up buying a complete RRS wheel then selling on what I didn't need for my conversion.D4 - Stornoway Grey
D2 V8 - Zambesi Silver (rust free JDM import 😎)
FL2 - Sd4 HSE
110 Td5 DCPU - Bonatti Grey - sold
FL2 Td4 - Zambesi Silver - sold
D2 Td5 - Epsom Green - sold
F1 Td4 - Giverney Green - sold
90 300 Tdi - White – sold BIG mistake should have kept it!
F1 Td4 - written off by a taxi!
D1 300 Tdi - written off by a Fiesta...
D1 200 Tdi - sold
90 Turbo Diesel - sold
Ser 2a SWB - sold and glad I 'got rid'
Ser 2 SWB - sold but wish I still had it!
25th Oct 2016 8:30 pm
Robert SausageTrousers
Member Since: 09 Aug 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 466
Gah, what a nightmare - so if I was to buy these switches there's a chance they wont' even work?
Thanks for the advice, I've found that the steering wheel is from a 2015 car as well so mating it with my 2010 is going to be a pig, or is the wheel compatible?
I think I'm going to have to sell the wheel on to someone else by the looks of it, the initial responses to this thread made me believe that all I needed was a wheel and clock spring so I just went ahead and bought it
26th Oct 2016 8:52 am
geoffsnook
Member Since: 13 Jun 2014
Location: south wales
Posts: 3169
I would sell the wheel and start from scratch Discovery 3 se gone
Range rover sport supercharged here:)
26th Oct 2016 10:26 am
Robert SausageTrousers
Member Since: 09 Aug 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 466
Yeah, it's looking like that'd be the best bet
26th Oct 2016 11:36 am
VVS210
Member Since: 05 Aug 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 506
OK, so what follows is based on my experience of putting a heated wheel on my 2010 D4 GS and is intended to help the OP and anyone else who wants to do an upgrade - I got help from people when doing mine so am merely passing on a combination of that help plus what I know in the hope that it helps others.
I have an 'AA' prefix VIN number and it did NOT have a heated clock spring fitted - your car is a higher spec than mine so may have it but if I were you I would take the cowling off the steering column and look to see if the power supply is connected or simply terminates with the plug wrapped in a piece of grey foam and taped up.
To take the cowling off there are a couple of T20 head screws in the underside and you will see the power cable on the left side.
As regards the wheel itself, if you just have a bare wheel it will work with any model year car PROVIDED THAT THE CORRECT MODEL YEAR ECU AND SWITCHES ARE USED.
For a 2010MY car you need an ECU like the top one in this photo - the red plug connects to the clock spring, the black plug connects to the heated wheel switch pack and the heated wheel plugs directly into the ECU at the opposite end to where the other wires come out, you keep the rest of your wheel loom:
The ECU in the bottom of the photo is for a 2013MY car onwards and is NOT for your 2010MY car.
As I have mentioned already, if you have a cruise control switch pack there is no need to replace this, it will still work as you are not replacing any of the existing steering wheel loom.
You will need the correct heated wheel/phone/voice activation switch pack though to go on the right hand side of the wheel. It looks like this - note there is no white painted horn symbol on it:
Don't worry if the colour does not match your existing switch packs as it is easy to take them apart and swap over the heated wheel switch and circuit boards so you can re-use your existing switch pack - i.e. if it is piano black (or Formica ) or if you have chrome tipped switches etc. - the heated wheel switch simply goes where there is a blanking plate on the existing switch pack.
When I did mine I bought a soft leather wheel from a specialist breaker who had a delivery damaged 2016MY car as I like them rather than the correct for year black shiny leather wheels. It came with the corresponding switch packs and ECU and I know from trying to get these to work that they don't in a 2010MY car! (I also bought the heated clock spring and both the indicator and wiper control stalks which are a straight swap )
I then bought a complete 2010MY RRS heated wheel from a breaker on a well known internet auction site and removed the ECU and heated switch pack from that, replaced my existing non-heated switch pack, connected the ECU up and all worked without the need for any enabling - i.e. it was 'plug and play'.
I sold the spare cruise control switch pack from the RRS set up to a member on here and put the 2016MY switch packs and ECU into the RRS heated wheel and sold that as well, using the funds from these to offset the cost of the initial outlay.
If you want more info then drop me a PM, I'm working funny hours at the moment so may take a while to reply to you though.
Cheers.D4 - Stornoway Grey
D2 V8 - Zambesi Silver (rust free JDM import 😎)
FL2 - Sd4 HSE
110 Td5 DCPU - Bonatti Grey - sold
FL2 Td4 - Zambesi Silver - sold
D2 Td5 - Epsom Green - sold
F1 Td4 - Giverney Green - sold
90 300 Tdi - White – sold BIG mistake should have kept it!
F1 Td4 - written off by a taxi!
D1 300 Tdi - written off by a Fiesta...
D1 200 Tdi - sold
90 Turbo Diesel - sold
Ser 2a SWB - sold and glad I 'got rid'
Ser 2 SWB - sold but wish I still had it!
26th Oct 2016 5:18 pm
Robert SausageTrousers
Member Since: 09 Aug 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 466
That's really kind of you to post such a comprehensive guide, much appreciated - I'm still leaning towards selling the wheel I've got on and then trying to source the complete kit I need from a 2010, I need it to be as simple as possible as I'm not the most practical of people and faffing around trying to get all the different bits to work with each other seems pretty complicated!
27th Oct 2016 8:09 am
VVS210
Member Since: 05 Aug 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 506
It really isn't anything to be scared of. If you can use a screwdriver you can do it, it's no harder to remove/replace the switch packs than it is to remove the air bag & wheel in the first place. PM me if you want me to talk you through it D4 - Stornoway Grey
D2 V8 - Zambesi Silver (rust free JDM import 😎)
FL2 - Sd4 HSE
110 Td5 DCPU - Bonatti Grey - sold
FL2 Td4 - Zambesi Silver - sold
D2 Td5 - Epsom Green - sold
F1 Td4 - Giverney Green - sold
90 300 Tdi - White – sold BIG mistake should have kept it!
F1 Td4 - written off by a taxi!
D1 300 Tdi - written off by a Fiesta...
D1 200 Tdi - sold
90 Turbo Diesel - sold
Ser 2a SWB - sold and glad I 'got rid'
Ser 2 SWB - sold but wish I still had it!
27th Oct 2016 10:34 pm
ewikran
Member Since: 15 Oct 2016
Location: Tromso
Posts: 45
gvw wrote:
You can swap the insides of the switches around if you take them apart carefully.
Any info on this? Complicated? Easy to damage?
Just received a complete wheel with switch packs just to get the piano pack. Unfortunately it has the white printed horn symbols (didn't read this thread before the wheel was bought). Contemplating to do the switch if the process is not to complicated.
Or is it best to let it be and sell it on and look for another switch pack?
28th Oct 2016 7:51 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8069
I have changed the switch packs for the BBS paddle shift conversion on a D3 it's more delicate than complicated, main advice is do not over tighten the screws holding the packs in as it may cause damage to the packs, nothing to be afraid of just tighten lightly It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
28th Oct 2016 9:08 pm
ewikran
Member Since: 15 Oct 2016
Location: Tromso
Posts: 45
Is it possible to decode from the part number what year it fits?
For info the switch pack that I have bought have part number DH52-13767-HB
28th Oct 2016 10:42 pm
dlgis
Member Since: 02 Oct 2015
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Posts: 398
I may be wrong but i think the "D" in the code indicates 13MY. Parts starting A being 10MY and so on. So a D part would be fitted also to later model year cars e.g. 14MY until the part itself is updated.
Also my 12MY GS has white painted horns as standard although no cruise ( until i retrofitted it) and no heated wheel. When i bought an identical looking cruise switch pack with white horn it didnt work as the PCB was a 13MY version. Managed to get the correct replacement PCB from a chap on here easy to swap over with a small electrical screwdriver and good lighting, just be patient and dont overtighten as mentioned above D4 GS 12MY
29th Oct 2016 10:54 am
ewikran
Member Since: 15 Oct 2016
Location: Tromso
Posts: 45
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29th Oct 2016 11:43 pm
gvw
Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
For information to others considering this upgrade
My car is a MY10
I tried both a DH52-13D767-CA and a DH52-13D767-CB heated switch packs, both with raised white horn symbol coupled with an older style wheel ECU and neither would work.
When I changed to an older switchpack (not sure of part no. as it had been removed) hey presto it all works
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
) or if you have chrome tipped switches etc. - the heated wheel switch simply goes where there is a blanking plate on the existing switch pack.
and faffing around trying to get all the different bits to work with each other seems pretty complicated!
easy to swap over with a small electrical screwdriver and good lighting, just be patient and dont overtighten as mentioned above 
