Member Since: 15 Feb 2021
Location: Lingen
Posts: 26
Head gasket? Overheating? Airpockets? - Car blows coolant of
Hey Folks,
My 2007 tdv6 is giving me some trouble regarding the cooling system.
Before I start:
- Had the whole hose mess under the fan out for a couple of times due to repairing the Engine and transbox. I did my best to reconnect every Hose where it came off, but I am clumsy little wombat, so idk…
- Changed the Coolant Bottle and Cap with a OE kind of bottle from eBay. Later I changed the cap again due to leaking with a GM cap, rated at 15 PSI.
- Changed the Thermostat with a LR original one (87C)
- New SKF Water pump since the old one was leaking quite a bit.
When driving on the Autobahn with a steady speed of 140 – 140kmh without any harsh accelerations, the coolant pushes out of the bottle partially, same goes for pulling trailers. In any Case, no overheating is involved (checked with iid tool). A CO2 test showed no positive Result.
Overall I never managed it to bleed the coolant system fully, every Morning my heater bubbles like a waterfall when I take off.
I am confused so much, everything points to a bad head gasket, but the CO2 test stays blue, maybe some major air pockets? Otherwise there is no Oil in Water or Vis versa… What do you guys think?
Does somebody have a hose hookup plan?
Thank you so much in advance.
18th Nov 2021 12:43 pm
forest66
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
Member Since: 15 Feb 2021
Location: Lingen
Posts: 26
Hey, thank you.
There was nothing new in regards of the cooling system in it, anyways some other very helpfull information has been gathered
After drinving yesterday for like 20km @150kmh my car again push coolant out of the bottle. I tested again for CO2, but again no result wich makes me kinda happy.
I came to the conclusion that the waterflow must be somehow obstructed, since the temperature was steady at 90 degres, i ordered a new rad, it isnt in the bad shape anyways.
I will keep you updated.
Thanks for dealing with my english skills and silly car problems
19th Nov 2021 4:18 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
the temperature gauges are bias to normal. It doesn't read the temp. in real time.
Only when the temperature it really high will the gauge suddenly jump to very hot
19th Nov 2021 5:51 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1780
I would say that you have not bled the system properly. Put heater on to full hot whilst bleeding as this is a known air trap area. There are two bleed locations. Check all hose connections are correct. You did take pictures when dismantling.
20th Nov 2021 3:08 am
BradC
Member Since: 29 Apr 2019
Location: Perth
Posts: 118
Quote:
Put heater on to full hot whilst bleeding as this is a known air trap area.
I keep seeing people say this and I fail to understand what difference putting the heater on hot will actually make.
20th Nov 2021 8:16 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1780
Allows max water flow through heater
20th Nov 2021 8:22 am
BradC
Member Since: 29 Apr 2019
Location: Perth
Posts: 118
Where is the control valve on the heater in a D3?
20th Nov 2021 8:23 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1780
You turn both knobs to the red dot on the heater controls
20th Nov 2021 8:51 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8069
This any help?- sorry about the poor quality hopefully someone will be along soon to improve it
Click image to enlarge
It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
20th Nov 2021 11:59 am
altblech-schrauber.de
Member Since: 15 Feb 2021
Location: Lingen
Posts: 26
Hey guys,
thank you so much for the input.
I thoroughly flushed the engine and radiator with a core cleaner, and afterwards with dish detergent.
Still no improvement. I Checked the overall hose connections acording to the repair manual i found online, wich apears to be a litle diferent than my car (early 2007 w/o DPF).
I still heavily lean towards radiator...
I hope island 4x4 delivers quick so we can see if i am right.
22nd Nov 2021 8:19 am
altblech-schrauber.de
Member Since: 15 Feb 2021
Location: Lingen
Posts: 26
as expectet , my rad was kinda dirty...
Exchanging that, i also changed the 3 remaining tstat, both in the egr, and the one down below right beside the main thermostat for the egr "rail", also i bought a new bottle cap, this tiem from jrl.
Since this is done i keep bleeding my car, every morning i can bleed air out of the crossover pipe, but still there is plenty of air in it.
I have done the air bleeding process of as mantioned above multiple times.
I am kinda puzzled... but as long as it doenst overheat i will ignore that and keep on watching at it i think...
2nd Dec 2021 2:29 pm
altblech-schrauber.de
Member Since: 15 Feb 2021
Location: Lingen
Posts: 26
Still same issue, my car produces Vapor or whatever that creates air Pockets, it cant be that still after 4 days or so and propper bleeding is still so much air in the system.
One thing that makes me kinda wonder is that the egr cooler lines are completly cold after driving, openeing the bleed screw theres a lot of air trapped.
Is it possible that the wrong cooler ( EU3 vs EU4 ) brings the water in the coolers to a boil? My car is a 2007 EU4 without DPF. VIN starting with 8A...
I changed them last winter with used ones, but i cant remeber if my problem startet then, it first came to my knowledge in early autumn.
Thank you
3rd Dec 2021 9:17 am
Jose Navarro
Member Since: 18 May 2021
Location: ALMERIA
Posts: 4
Greetings to all. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide me.
From what I read in your post it seems I have the same problem on my 2008 Discovery 3 with 140,000 miles and it would be very important for me to know how you fixed the problem on your vehicle.
My Discovery works perfectly in the city and on the highway at low speeds.
The coolant circulates normally through the circuit, there are no leaks and the fluid is completely clean, but when it goes at high speeds on the highway and requires power on long climbs, the coolant is expelled through the expansion tank cap, but the temperature indicator on the case remains at normal temperature.
After many attempts to properly bleed the cooling circuit and many tests, I can not find the problem.
I hope the problem is not the bad head gasket, since the coolant and engine oil are completely clean. In addition, the circuit perfectly maintains pressure and tightness, hot and cold.
I would greatly appreciate any help in finding a solution.
23rd Sep 2022 11:51 am
altblech-schrauber.de
Member Since: 15 Feb 2021
Location: Lingen
Posts: 26
hey Jose,
turned out that i had a blown head gasket.
it was only detectable via the usual CO test by "Priming" it (blowing at it so it turns yellow, and then pumping that it is slightly green again).
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of "fun" but now my Box purrs nicely again.
