sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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HDC, DSC, EBA etc all at fault |
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Sorry to restart this but my previous string became so long as to be unreadable.
Summary: LR4 SDV6 2011. Driving along I get HDC not available, DSC not available, EBA not available, AB fault, gearbox fault, Suspension lowered for safety, normal height selected, fuel low, fuel gauge doesn't work, speedo doesn't work, park brake fault, HDC system error, charging system fault. Then the check engine light comes on and the car is stuck in 3rd. Stop, restart - all OK. Probably a few more but all this inside two miles max after driving around 5 miles.
Battery new, hard reset done, brake switch changed (since this seemed to be a common source of this).
The car has done 42k, is always garaged and dry and has no corrosion . The wheel sensors are OK according to the IID Tool live values.
Has anyone got ANY ideas at all?
I have checked all the cables I can and there are none loose and no corrosion signs - the car is essentially new.
I have a list of OBD faults but I am not sure they are much use. They are all U codes except
B11DB-87 (28) Battery monitoring module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 18-01-2022 14:14:03 at 61602 km )
this occurs many minutes after all the other faults so I am not sure it is a root cause.
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18th Jan 2022 2:29 pm |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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Now, I find out your need to rest the Battery Monitoring system when the battery is changed and I didn't.
Using the IID Tool, is it as simple as doing the Battery Replacement in the BCM menu? Any chance I can screw it up even more (the manual is a bit unclear rankly)
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18th Jan 2022 2:52 pm |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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Seems that the battery needs to be fully charged and then you wait about an hour for the voltage to settle and simply go to:
–> Service/Test
–> BCM Body Control
–> Battery Replacement
After the BMS is resetted, the BMS performs a self-calibration. To do this, the battery is first charged with maximum charge voltage while the engine is running and then discharged to 75% charge. Discharging can take several days if only short distances are driven. During this time the alternator does not switch on! Only after that the BMS works normally again and charges the battery normally again.
thanks to expedition- parts for this info
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18th Jan 2022 4:18 pm |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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So, no news is good news so far. The reset succeeded and I have done around 25 miles since with no faults at all. This doesn't mean it is fixed and it is a pity there is no health check method apart from 'no faults'
A few more miles tomorrow and we shall see but in any event it is unnerving driving it since I have no idea when I will be greeted by the Blackpool illuminations!
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19th Jan 2022 2:03 pm |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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Is checking the alternator by reading the battery voltages best best way or i the a way with the IID Tool?
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20th Jan 2022 8:13 am |
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Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1670
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Quote:Seems that the battery needs to be fully charged and then you wait about an hour for the voltage to settle and simply go to:
–> Service/Test
–> BCM Body Control
–> Battery Replacement
After the BMS is resetted, the BMS performs a self-calibration. To do this, the battery is first charged with maximum charge voltage while the engine is running and then discharged to 75% charge. Discharging can take several days if only short distances are driven. During this time the alternator does not switch on! Only after that the BMS works normally again and charges the battery normally again
That’s good information about how to do it and what actually goes on when BMS is reset. Thanks for taking time to post.
Cheers Gary
-------------------------------------------
Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
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20th Jan 2022 9:23 am |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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And if you know anyone else with an IID Tool which suddenly will not connect or respond, here is the fix. It worked for me!
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20th Jan 2022 3:58 pm |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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The reset worked and the car was fine for 20 miles and multiple short trips and now it has started again and I get all the warning lights and every message under the sun.
My local LR dealer claims he has never seen this before and also claims he does not have the software to do the diagnosis.
ANY ideas what I should do now?
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22nd Jan 2022 10:42 am |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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Does anyone know who supplies LR with their diagnostics software?
Thanks
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22nd Jan 2022 11:04 am |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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Anyone know how to actually test the BMS and can you buy the pares to change it? I can't find any
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22nd Jan 2022 3:32 pm |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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Charged the battery overnight and then reset the BMS. It is running at 36 amps on the alternator at 25% load. Voltage is 14.5.
Yesterday it had all the warnings after one minute running. Now there are none and it has been running for ten minutes. I am going to leave it all day running to see if anything happens.
I do have the check engine light on for some reason but this is not a major issue
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23rd Jan 2022 8:38 am |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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How would LR do a diagnosis if there are no fault codes and no warning lights? Do they have some fancy test kit?
thanks
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23rd Jan 2022 9:00 am |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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According to this document
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10101194-9340.pdf
It could be this harness fuse which is blown. So, I looked for the part in question LR030454 and find that the price is 1500 pounds!!!!
Surely they are not serious??
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23rd Jan 2022 9:42 am |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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How do I use the IIDTool to see if the battery is actually charging?? I know the alternator is delivering
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23rd Jan 2022 10:18 am |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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So, I am no further forward.
The local Bosch Electronic Diagnostic service centres say they aren't equipped for Landrovers.
The local LR garage don't want to know since 'we have more important work to do' and might be able to fit me in in March! They guy also didn't realise all LR4s are automatic either.
They basically neither have a clue nor want to spend labour time when they could be fitting overpriced parts.
So my choices are to either dick around and see if I can find out why or take it to be crushed and frankly the latter seems more fun..
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24th Jan 2022 2:47 pm |
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