Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
Did you change the HPFP yourself? Roughly how long did it take if so?
27th Jul 2020 11:23 am
JP0650
Member Since: 30 Mar 2020
Location: New Forest
Posts: 22
Yes I did. It took best part of a day with plenty of coffee breaks!!! It's not that bad a job just a bit fiddly and lots of working blind , the hardest part is getting the engine breather out.
As well as a new pump you need to replace the belt and tensioner.
27th Jul 2020 12:05 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
OK, thanks! I replaced all the belts and tensioners a few months ago, along with oil pump. Last bit of the big service was the diesel filter and then the problems started.
Have the new filter now, will fit it this evening and check the connector in the rear wheel arch and report back.
27th Jul 2020 1:54 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
Changed the filter for a genuine LR item (€73 here in France).
Pressure at the Schrader valve still about 3psi, current up by 0.1A to 2.99A, flow about .85 l/min. Ambient temperature still around 30 deg.
So everything about half of what it should be. Still drives well except when it faults.
Overall I think it was better with the old pump.
Did I do something wrong fitting the new pump?
There is a pipe inside the tank no connected to anything. I assumed it was a return just feeding into the tank - is this correct?
Is the new pump faulty?
27th Jul 2020 6:31 pm
JP0650
Member Since: 30 Mar 2020
Location: New Forest
Posts: 22
The pipe that doesn’t connect to anything should have a clip that holds it over the pump, it’s the return that feeds into the pot of the pump, it acts as a swirl pot to ensure that there is always fuel. Hope that makes sense.
27th Jul 2020 7:40 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
Makes sense.
Wondering where the pressure regulator is. Any idea anyone?
27th Jul 2020 8:20 pm
JP0650
Member Since: 30 Mar 2020
Location: New Forest
Posts: 22
There’s a pressure sensor on the end of the common rail but I think the regulator is part of the HPFP, if it’s what I’m thinking of you can’t get them separate.
27th Jul 2020 8:56 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
So the pressure regulator in the HPFP could be controlling the LPFP and leading to the low current, pressure and flow I have on LP side?
Before giving in to replacing the HPFP, I think I will try to power up my LPFP direct from the connector in the wheel arch. That would indicate whether my new LPFP is duff or whether there is a fault with the regulator.
I do know that the car does not start when the connector on the HPFP is disconnected.
I have a new pump relay on order as well, but I don't think that is going to change anything.
28th Jul 2020 5:35 am
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
I just had a look at my old pump module.
The thing on one of the pipes (see photos) seems to be a pressure regulator - it is marked 50kPa. Also dated 2008, which suggest it is the original pump.
No idea how it works with only one wire?
When I fitted the new LPFP this regulator seems to sit in a shaped recess in the tank, but there was no positive location that I could see. Does this seem right?
28th Jul 2020 5:52 am
Rolyboy
Member Since: 01 Nov 2020
Location: Wrexham
Posts: 14
Cranks but won’t start
Hi I was wondering if any one could help pretty please.
I have a 2.7 tdv6 2007 it cranks but won’t start . When I first got it it did tick over briefly x3 only for a few seconds each time . Since then after research I have changed .
Low pressure pump in tank
Injectors
Fuel filter
EGR BLANK
New battery
SINCE THEN I have not got it to start at all .
I have fuel through Scharder valve
Fuel at injectors
I can hear fuel pump workin in the tank however sounds like there is a waterfall in there
Fuel pressure reading is 2700 on diagnostic on cranking
Engine rpm is 150 to 170 on cranking
PCv 40 %
I’ve emptied and cleaned the tank
It also won’t start with easy start
Any advice would be deeply appreciated.
I’m a key worker and need to get it up and running as I’m using my sister car at present
Post #21838111st Nov 2020 10:23 am
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1st Nov 2020 10:36 am
JP0650
Member Since: 30 Mar 2020
Location: New Forest
Posts: 22
Do you have any fault codes?
1st Nov 2020 12:33 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
What units is your fuel pressure measured in?
Mine is around 27,000 kPa at tick-over. That is 270 Bar. You say 2700....id that is kPa then seems too low, if it is Bar, then too high by factor of 10 - assuming starting pressure is similar to pressure at tick-over.Bentley 8
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1st Nov 2020 5:34 pm
Rolyboy
Member Since: 01 Nov 2020
Location: Wrexham
Posts: 14
Sorry the reading was in psi . Thank you
1st Nov 2020 7:57 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
Any progress with this?
My pressure control valve reading is usually between 12 and low 30s.
My car has an on going problem and when it faulted this weekend I was recording data. High PCV reading seems to trigger the fault.
I am coming to the inevitable conclusion that I need to change my high pressure fuel pump. You might be in the same position. Seems to be the only thing you haven't already changed.Bentley 8
Rolls Royce Silver Shadow
Triumph Stag
Volkswagen Karmann Ghia Razor Edge
Jaguar XJC
Jaguar E-type
Jaguar XK8
Land Rover Discovery 4
Mercedes E350
Ford Granada 2.8 Ghia X
Ford Granada 2.8i Ghia X
4th Nov 2020 7:04 am
Rolyboy
Member Since: 01 Nov 2020
Location: Wrexham
Posts: 14
So I finally gave up took high pressure pump off to be tested. The guy said it’s doing everything it should readings are good. However there is a slight leak . In his opinion shouldn’t effect it . However I’m choosing to replace seals . I can’t see any leak being helpful. For the sake of 12 pond seal I will give anything ago . I wished on the back of a hay truck to .
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