Member Since: 08 May 2017
Location: South West
Posts: 18
See my other posts about LP fuel problems. Cleaning the tank, filter and new main filter has fixed LP delivery side. Now a steady 6psi at engine.
The current diesel fuel with 5% veggie in it seems to be the black sludge problem experienced by many.
The LP pump has only fixed the delivery side. Took vehicle to local LR man with magic box. Now says fuel pressure OK but RHS EGR valve stuck.(V6)
Don't have right tools in my box so vehicle is booked for LR man to have a go.
I'll post outcome .
22nd Aug 2017 10:32 am
Dartmoor Dave
Member Since: 08 May 2017
Location: South West
Posts: 18
I'll quickly repeat what I wrote in another thread. Local guy fitted new exchange inj pump and injectors. Fired straight up and went like a mad thing.
Neighbour is well pleased to have it back with full power. I'm just baffled by the whole pantomime but thats part of LR ownership.
Magic box readout was no help at all other than it gave multiple fuel system codes to give a headache but hey ho and a grand or more spent, its back on the road.
For how long is anybody's guess.
8th Nov 2017 9:36 am
white rover
Member Since: 30 Jun 2020
Location: perth
Posts: 13
Robbie wrote:
Sorry I've only done this once and that was years ago with 2 of us at it and neither of us particularly had a clue as to how it was all going to go. I don't recall the workshop manual being that helpful either when it came to remove the clips and lines.
4.1 amps does not sound too bad at all if the fuel is reasonably warm. 7 PSI is not bad either and I have seen them start with a lower figure.
The book figures are:
50 kPa (0.5 bar) (7.25) lb/in²
You can also do a flow check to see how much fuel comes through in a given time. The ideal is around 70 litres an hour ~ 1666 ml a minute.
Hi guys, Question about the fuel flow rate on the LPFP, I had 7.5psi at the valve in the engine bay before removing my tank to check the pump out and bench test it. the flow rate out of the valve in the engine bay was 700ml at 3.4amp draw. once out it bench tested ( from one bucket to another ) 3Litres in a minute. same amp draw.
question is, is the flow to slow at the Valve end in the engine bay ?
2nd Jul 2020 12:58 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
Fuel will need to be forced through the filter when on the car
2nd Jul 2020 6:20 pm
white rover
Member Since: 30 Jun 2020
Location: perth
Posts: 13
Hi Guys,
So I think Ive hit the nail on the head with the P2290 code I keep getting, I believe it is caused from a faulty fuel temperature sensor, In my case anyways. Ill confirm tomorrow when I test it with the multimeter. However this morning before started the car I took a reading on my Scan tool and the fuel temperature sensor had a reading of 76degrees Celsius before even Starting the car !
Outside air temp was 12 Degrees Celsius.. The manual stats the car will start to limit the aloud fuel pressure in the rails when the fuel temp goes above 85 degrees Celsius, in my case that happens in a couple of minutes after starting and after about half an hour im seeing 100 Plus degrees celsius.
I am wondering if Anyone knows the part number for this ? my car is a 2010 disco 4 with 2.7 v6 Diesel.
I called up Landrover and they only sell as a complete unit with plumbing and release valve, Retailing for $450 AUD. All I need is the Sensor.
Ill post again when i test with a multimeter and after hunting down and fitting a new sensor !
8th Jul 2020 8:26 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
you could try disconnecting the sensor.
The default value may make it run better.
or it may run fail safe, but it maynot be as bad?
8th Jul 2020 11:34 am
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
LPFP or HPFP
Hi Folks,
I have been having the same faults as many others on the forum with suspension lowering etc on my 2008 Disco 3 2.7 auto.
Many fault codes recorded but the key one seems to be P0087 related to low fuel pressure.
Maybe worth mentioning that the fault began shortly after changing the fuel for a new Britparts one.
The fault occurs even at low speed or slowing down. E.g. drove into town last night, about 15 mins, no fault. Parked and had a pizza and had the fault on the way home. Switched off and restarted and back to normal.
I did the LPFP tests suggested by Robbie, everything was ok but on the limit. Because of the intermittent nature of the fault I thought that perhaps there was dirt in the bottom of the tank getting sucked up and clogging the filter on the pump intermittently and that switching off allowed the dirt to drop back a bit.
So I decided to change the LPFP - with low confidence for a successful. And I was right. The fault re-occurred on aforementioned pizza outing.
I have seen some mention on forums about non-LR filters maybe causing this problem. Anyone got a view on this?
Is it worth changing the Britpart filter for an LR one before I change the HPFP? Just in case?
Is there a 'how to' anywhere on changing the HPFP anywhere?
Any advice on where to source a new or recon pump?
Any thoughts on how the HPFP can have an intermittent fault?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions
Brian
25th Jul 2020 4:52 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
I think you will find the Britpart filter is the genuine one.
Have you tried a new fuel pump relay? If theres high resistance at the contacts the pump will spin slower, you could also try Robbies test again on the new fuel pump. I take it you replaced the whole unit not just the pump.
25th Jul 2020 6:24 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
Haven't tried a pump relay, will look into that. You think there could be an intermittent fault on the relay?
I did replace the whole LPFP module.
25th Jul 2020 6:35 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
Its worth changing the relay just incase
25th Jul 2020 6:42 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 762
[quote="aja4x4"]I think you will find the Britpart filter is the genuine one.
Have you tried a new fuel pump relay? If theres high resistance at the contacts the pump will spin slower, you could also try Robbies test again on the new fuel pump. I take it you replaced the whole unit not just the pump.[/quote]
dont think you will find it is i would be getting a genuine one and throw the poo britpart in the bin then see how you get on please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
25th Jul 2020 7:45 pm
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
Today I removed the filter. When it was off I got my wife to flick on the ignition - good gush of fuel cam from the centre of the housing. I couldn't get the pressure gauge connected there.
I also check the current drawn by the pump with a multi-meter connect across fuse terminals (fuse removed)- 2.89A at tick-over and 2.99A when I revved to 3000 rpm. Seems low, but the ambient temperature was about 32 deg at the time. Battery voltage was 13.7V.
I checked the pressure at the Schrader valve - it was about 5psi, may be a bit less. The scale on my gauge is in steps of 2.5 psi. Anyway, seems low.
Also when I depressed the Schrader valve the flow was quite low, a bit more than a dribble, but not much more. Did not seem consistent with the flow at the filter housing.
Considering this subjective observation and considering that the problem started shortly after I changed the filter, seems to suggest a dodgy filter.
I also cleaned the MAP sensor which was covered in black gunk.
Just for fun, I checked the current on the old pump - out of the car and dry. It was drawing about 1.5A. Seemed to be a good kick out of it. I guess it makes sense that the current would be lower with no load, but I have no idea how much lower one would expect. Any thoughts?
I was thinking about a possible fault with the pressure control valve also, but my problem does seem to be on the low pressure side and the pressure control valve on the common rail presumably feeds back to the HPFP.
After the tests today, I took it for a 20 min run in sport mode on mixed roads including motorway. Pulled like a train all the way.
Tomorrow I will get a genuine LR filter and pump relay and see what difference that makes and report.
26th Jul 2020 7:52 pm
JP0650
Member Since: 30 Mar 2020
Location: New Forest
Posts: 22
I have recently been getting the same symptoms and the P0087 code. Changed the fuel filter and LPFP and still the same, I had a decent flow at the schraeder valve and 20.3psi at the fuel pressure sensor, I did an injector leak off test and there were no issues and also changed the relay, the faults still persisted.
This weekend I changed the HPFP and so far have driven about 100 miles with no bings or bongs or fault codes popping up (I was getting a couple of miles at most). I used a re-manufactured pump from PF Jones.
27th Jul 2020 7:24 am
French Collection
Member Since: 15 Apr 2020
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Posts: 46
When you say 20.3 psi at fuel pressure sensor is this the sensor on the common rail?
How did you measure it? using diagnostic tool via OBD socket?
27th Jul 2020 8:30 am
JP0650
Member Since: 30 Mar 2020
Location: New Forest
Posts: 22
Yes it's the sensor on the rail, I used a GAP IID tool, the 20.3psi is with the ignition in position 2 (engine not running).
Before I changed the LPFP i was getting around 3psi and nothing at the schraeder valve so I hoped that changing the LPFP would sort the low fuel rail pressure issue and the fault code but it didn't.
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