Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Radstock, Bath
Posts: 564
Front wheel bearing
Planning on changing this on the coming weekend.
Was adamant it was the N/S front. There was no play in either wheel, when jacked up.
Went through some largish puddles on the weekend, and the screeching started.
Seems it is the O/S front.
I've ordered the replacement, with a new locking nut as well.
Questions for the collective:
1. Any 'out of the ordinary' tools I am going to need?
2. Any pitfalls to look out for?
3. Any shortcuts?
4. Anything else to do/look for/change, while the wheel is off?
Was going to ask, How long will it take?, but everyone is different. I tend to do things slower anyway. Learnt from my mistakes while rushing other cars...
Thanks in Advance.MY07 Freelander2 SE Santorini Black - Gone
MY10 D4 XS Buckingham Blue
MY06 D3 HSE
14th Oct 2019 11:53 am
Philip1972
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1072
Best advice from me is to wear ear protection when hammering the hob off.
I didnt, and I am not kidding, had bad hearing for days. The sound is concentrated when you head is under the wheel arch while hammering
14th Oct 2019 1:25 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4399
The bolts that hold the hub on, protrude through from the back, and the exposed end of the bolts (exposed thread) corrodes and gets covered in muck. Spend some time cleaning the ends of the bolts with a wire brush, before you try to undo them. Put some penetrating oil on the cleaned ends also.
Click image to enlarge
Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
14th Oct 2019 1:41 pm
Rnclayton
Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Radstock, Bath
Posts: 564
Thanks both.
Might take the wheel, caliper and , disc off on Friday, and spray liberally and leave it to overnight.
Depends on weather really. Don't have a covered space to do it.MY07 Freelander2 SE Santorini Black - Gone
MY10 D4 XS Buckingham Blue
MY06 D3 HSE
14th Oct 2019 1:52 pm
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 515
As you have ordered a new nut it will probably be the right one of the 2 variants. My timken bearing came with one of both despite the exortation of Paddock motors "not to forget to order a new nut".
Opinions on the forum differ on the need to remove the ABS sensor. Whether you do or not be careful not to damage it. I removed mine.
There is an excellent write up of this job on the Wiki forum under Maintenance.
The following is in part an inferior version of the Wiki and some different practical experiences, both personal and from the forum.
The brake disc will have to be removed and some string will be useful to support the brake calipher.
After the hub nut has been unstaked, (old screwdriver required) it may help to have someone stand on the brake whilst you undo the nut. It is done up to a high torque and you will need a socket spanner with either a T bar with a length of pipe or a breaker bar, possibly again with an extension
With the nut removed the splined shaft has to be pushed back into the hub, (just to break its grip). This can be difficult. Do NOT hammer on the end of the splined shaft. I tried reversing the old nut, (positioned so that it was on sufficiently to use its full thread but not so far that there was not a gap between it and the hub or the end of splined shaft was exposed to damage. I then used a socket spanner, a sacraficial piece of wood and a large hammer in an attempt to free the shaft. This may work but in my case did not but having left the parts soaked in DD releasing fluid, (perhaps a superior form of WD40), for 30 hours, (rain stopped play earlier), I pushed the shaft loose with just 2 thumbs.
The shaft having been freed you can remove the hub mounting bolts. WD40 and wire brushing of the exposed threads pays dividends.
A ratchet ring spanner can be useful initially BUT be careful not to get it trapped.
When reassembling I would recommend the use of copperease on the splined shaft, in case you ever have to do the job again. The hub nut does not have to be done up to the original torque as Land Rover have decided that a lower value "provides a longer bearing life". The new value is 230Nm. Again an assistant on the brakes would be useful. Do not forget to stake the new nut.
Good luck and if it is not going well have a cup of tea and go again.
John
Last edited by ronald.soak on 15th Oct 2019 9:58 pm. Edited 1 time in total
14th Oct 2019 2:00 pm
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 515
Sorry Richard. I took too long drafting my post. Your advice on removing bolts with picture better.
John
14th Oct 2019 2:05 pm
Rnclayton
Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Radstock, Bath
Posts: 564
Thanks John. No Probs.
Will look up the Wiki.
RichardMY07 Freelander2 SE Santorini Black - Gone
MY10 D4 XS Buckingham Blue
MY06 D3 HSE
14th Oct 2019 2:11 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2682
I've done a few of these.
I pop the little plastic centre out of the wheel and loosen the main nut using a long impact socket and long breaker bar before jacking the car up.
I've never had to 'un-stake' the nut to loosen it.
I re-torque the new nut with the wheel back on and the car on the ground, but whip the wheel off again to stake the nut.
Oh, with regard to special tools, you'll need a BIG torque wrench.
I brought one locally second hand a few years ago, and never needed to change a bearing again for a second time once I'd got the torque correct.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
14th Oct 2019 3:00 pm
Rnclayton
Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Radstock, Bath
Posts: 564
Think I will start with the WD40 over a couple of evenings. Just getting it to soak in over the week.
Have to check tonight, to see if Ive got a 34mm socket.
Got a decent torque wrench. It's probably about 18", and got a scaff bar handy.MY07 Freelander2 SE Santorini Black - Gone
MY10 D4 XS Buckingham Blue
MY06 D3 HSE
14th Oct 2019 5:04 pm
LIAMMCL
Member Since: 27 Aug 2013
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 404
I needed a new driveshaft and ordered the newer type which takes the newer nut, along with a new bearing for peace of mind.
The newer driveshaft uses a 36mm nut - can't fit a socket through the wheel centre so you need someone on the brake pedal to loosen/tighten the nut.
14th Oct 2019 5:32 pm
Rnclayton
Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Radstock, Bath
Posts: 564
Just been out to check. Mine is a 32mm!!!!
Fortunately, it's the biggest socket I have.
What is the bet, the new one comes as a 34mm?MY07 Freelander2 SE Santorini Black - Gone
MY10 D4 XS Buckingham Blue
MY06 D3 HSE
14th Oct 2019 9:04 pm
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 515
The 32 and 36mm socket size nuts are not interchangeable and must be replaced like for like. Although the thread diameters are the same 24mm the pitches are different. 1.5mm on the original and 2.0 on the later GKN shafts.
15th Oct 2019 12:05 am
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 515
CORRECTION The revised torque is 230Nm or about 170ftlbs.
The original torque was 350Nm or about 258ftlbs.
That is quite an ask for an 18 inch torque wrench. A scaffold pole was what I had in mind but will not help unless the wrench can be set high enough. (If the wrench does not have a ratchet you could use it in the opposite direction to the calibration but that is not something that I would do.)
15th Oct 2019 12:40 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2682
Yep, my Torque wrench for doing these is a 1" drive and about 3 feet long.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
15th Oct 2019 11:17 am
Rnclayton
Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Radstock, Bath
Posts: 564
Just phoned up the supplier to check on the additional nut I have ordered.
What a palaver? Part numbers on website don't exist on LR database!!!!!!!
Think we got there in the end.
Hoping I do get a front hub and bearing assembly with nut...MY07 Freelander2 SE Santorini Black - Gone
MY10 D4 XS Buckingham Blue
MY06 D3 HSE
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so you need someone on the brake pedal to loosen/tighten the nut.
