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Front Prop Shaft Bolt removal Trick?
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Ruper
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318

United States 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 SE Auto Maya GoldLR3
Front Prop Shaft Bolt removal Trick?

Well all of the U-tube videos show a 4 bolt and nut combo on each flange of the front drive shaft.
My Rover has an 8 bolt flange just as the rear ones do.
Removing Cross member tomorrow if possible, one side of the end/side bolts is under the fuel tank skid plate, or branch guard I guess.

Any tricks other than loosening center cross member bolt and manipulating the gear box?

Is that the easiest way to get to the bolt heads, Male Torx #12. Already partially stripped one head.
Everything is sprayed down twice and letting it soak over night in PB Blaster, so hopefully that helps. No rust, thanks small oil leak wherever you are.
 2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in. 
 
Post #22219982nd Apr 2021 11:48 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

Lightly hammer the socket on to prevent stripping heads.
The cross member requires removal to get the prop out. May as well remove now.
  
Post #22220083rd Apr 2021 5:00 am
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Ruper
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318

United States 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 SE Auto Maya GoldLR3
Size of E Torx

Thanks for the info Pete, what size E torx did you use then? I am using a 12 which fits but I wouldn't need to hammer on, so I assume we are talking a #10 I guess?
 2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in. 
 
Post #22220893rd Apr 2021 2:34 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

I don’t recall.

But with all bolts under the car they are slightly rusted, so I small tap with a hammer ensures it fully engages and avoids all the bother of rounded bolt heads
  
Post #22221363rd Apr 2021 6:07 pm
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Ruper
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318

United States 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 SE Auto Maya GoldLR3
Sorted as you say...

Well I wrestled it out, The appropriate size was a #8 E-Torx. I had to rind down the meat on the top of the socket to assure a better fit, but all went pretty well until I needed to get it out. I had already tried to take the cross-member out.However there was two bolts that were seized one per side, so out came the grinder and cutting blade. After two blade the bolt head gave up to a cold chisel after cutting came 3/ the way thru.
That left part of the Flange of the bolt, but got out the grinder and finished that off. The other side next to the fuel tank I left alone. Sparks and a potential leak I have not seen might be an issue.
So used an 18 ton bottle jack with a square steel tube lever to lever down one side of the cross member in order to get the gear box up enough to bring the shaft out, just under the cross member and the gear box. I also had to remove the O2 sensor wire bracket, 2 small 8mm screws.
Once I got it out it was just a matter of rolling back and forth to get the bolt heads in line with the area clear for a wrench/ratchet to tighten all 12 of them up.

I tried to use a newly purchased 1/2 Battery Impact Wrench, but that wouldn't budge the cross member bolts either. Oh well, the up coming brake job will be better for that purchase, as it will make a great lug nut wrench.
Just got off 2 hour commute to work, and the vibration on placing power to the drive-line is worst than ever.[/b]
 2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in. 
 
Post #22224194th Apr 2021 11:18 pm
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Globetrotter448
 


Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782

Australia 2007 Discovery 3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Did you just replace the drive shaft or did you check the rear shaft and centre bearing
  
Post #222506017th Apr 2021 4:31 am
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Ruper
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318

United States 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 SE Auto Maya GoldLR3
It all went new

I replaced both front and rear driveshafts.

To date since 3yrs when bought used, the driveline has new:

Front Half Shafts both
Front and rear props shafts, and center bearing
Ties rod ends, the ones coming off the rack
New upper/lower ball joints
New front and Rear ARB Bushes

Just replaced the transfer case with a used one.
I was getting a thinking sound as if the drive chain links were hitting a link as in the chain was stretched. 130k on the clock. No more tink.
I Will be rebuilding the old one, already have the kit, all but clutches and chain.

Just has to replace the head unit, it had been on the way out since I purchased it.
Will be putting in a new brake switch tomorrow.
Today I cleaned all grounds under the passenger well well inner liner.
 2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in. 
 
Post #225723916th Oct 2021 1:23 am
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