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Flushing the brake fluid...
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m5ccie
 


Member Since: 17 Aug 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 19

United States 2006 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3
Flushing the brake fluid...

Greetings--

Is there anything special to know before I attempt to flush the brake fluid in my D3? In my other cars, I have a friend pump a few times and hold while I open the caliper bleeder valve to let the fluid come out and then repeat a few times. I start with the wheel furthest away from the driver and so on.

Thanks in advance,
Jim K.
  
Post #34397415th Sep 2008 6:42 am
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Neil Pettersen
 


Member Since: 23 Nov 2007
Location: Cutting the grass
Posts: 1254


Jim,

You should suck it out , not pump it through !!

Pumping causes the master cylinder piston to move beyond its normal throw.
This causes it to contact new unworn cylinder wall and therefore abrase.
In a short period of time the master piston will fail .
Every garage I use, vacuums the fluid through until new fluid appears in the vacuum pipe. DON'T PUMP THE BRAKE !
  
Post #34397915th Sep 2008 7:15 am
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Like one of these.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Workshop-Vacuum-Br...amp;sr=8-2

Never seen them before, but seem like a good idea. Thumbs Up
 Bodsys Brake Bible

D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling


Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here 
 
Post #34401015th Sep 2008 9:24 am
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Neil Pettersen
 


Member Since: 23 Nov 2007
Location: Cutting the grass
Posts: 1254


Yep Thumbs Up
  
Post #34402215th Sep 2008 9:52 am
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m5ccie
 


Member Since: 17 Aug 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 19

United States 2006 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Thanks for the heads up Neil. Very interesting theory on the master cylinder. I have always bled the brakes the "old fashioned way" and so far, knock on wood, I have been fortunate enough to not have any issues (including yearly flushes of my 2003 M5). But I have never owned an LR before to know any better and I do appreciate the information you have provided. Thumbs Up However, here is an alternate opinion offered by Dave Zeckhausen, although I'm sure he is no expert on the D3. Dave is a very well respected brakes expert in the BMW community.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm

and

http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/braketool/bleeder.htm

Best,
Jim K.
  
Post #34445316th Sep 2008 5:05 am
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Neil Pettersen
 


Member Since: 23 Nov 2007
Location: Cutting the grass
Posts: 1254


Jim,

It's interesting to read all the devices ! I'd not seen some of them .
I still don't like pumping, since I've had 2 failures shortly after doing such.
Dad didn't keep cars long enough to do brakes,so I've no history to refer to on the old method.

The vac I've seen has a significant tank volume and I've no complaints regarding the service provided.

Cheers,

Neil Thumbs Up
  
Post #34445416th Sep 2008 5:19 am
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m5ccie
 


Member Since: 17 Aug 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 19

United States 2006 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Found more relevant info on the web:

Two-Person Manual Bleeding

Two-person bleeding is by far the most common method and can be performed in any home garage without specialized tools. It does, however, require another person's help. Begin by cleaning the old fluid from the reservoir and either turn a full bottle of fresh fluid upside down onto the reservoir or make sure the reservoir is constantly topped off. Now is the time you need to find that extra person. Have him sit in the vehicle and pump the brake pedal several times to build pressure and remove the brake assist reserve. Open the bleeder valve and have your assistant pump the pedal four times, holding it down on the fourth pump until you re-tighten the valve closed. Don't lift off that pedal until the valve's tightened. Make sure the vacuum line drains into a bucket and repeat the process until a steady stream of fluid flows from the valve. Perform this step at each corner, several times until new fluid is visible. The process purges air from the system and as such will spurt and hiss fluid out until completely bled. A solid stream of clean fluid indicates the job is done at that particular corner. Be sure the person pumping the pedal does so no more than halfway to the floor. If it's pushed too far, you run the risk of driving the master cylinder's secondary piston across sediments or deposits that may have collected on the piston cylinder walls. This can permanently and quickly damage piston seals and cause leaks. Place a small block of wood underneath the brake pedal to ensure this doesn't happen.

Thanks Neil Bow down
  
Post #34445516th Sep 2008 5:53 am
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Neil Pettersen
 


Member Since: 23 Nov 2007
Location: Cutting the grass
Posts: 1254


I wish someone had told me before I ruined 2 of them,back in the late eighties.
The internet is good for an opinion. Two resleeved master cylinders cost me the price of
3 tyres a go , as I remember complaining at the time Rolling Eyes
  
Post #34445716th Sep 2008 6:24 am
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