Member Since: 25 Mar 2010
Location: NW Hampshire
Posts: 2485
Ideally - as the roof bars are actually a slight curve you want to cut equal amounts off each end.....
9th Sep 2020 10:34 am
Lightwater
Member Since: 22 Oct 2018
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 96
I'm using 4 crossbars on my Freelander & the curve was a pain in the neck so I straightened crossbars in a bench vice. I supported the ends of the extrusion with timber blocks (spacers) & a length of 100x50 running the length of the extrusion. On the raised side of the crossbar a bit of plywood packing to protect the extrusion from the vise & then wound it in. You need to go a bit over centre & the extrusion bounces back a bit. Mine are now only about 5mm raised in the centre. There is a hint of a ripple on the top side of the extrusion from straightening if you look hard enough but it doesn't affect the crossbar in any way.
Visitor - Freelander owner
10th Sep 2020 7:51 am
JDB
Member Since: 25 Mar 2010
Location: NW Hampshire
Posts: 2485
Although the curve does add their strength - I would down rate them for straight ones. Probably also gives you an interesting chat with any insurance firm about non-standard accessories if you were using them for a claim. Personally I would only use the correctly designed / rated ones. Especially above a glass sunroof!
10th Sep 2020 8:18 am
Lightwater
Member Since: 22 Oct 2018
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 96
I was in the aluminium industry for 2 decades designing extrusions, the 6060 T5 of these is not an issue. Besides that I'm using 4 crossbars. A lot of people down under use 3 or 4 crossbars.
The crossbars are a lot stronger than the single self tapper holding the rail (which each on both rails falls out on corrugated roads) to the support which I replaced with a solid 5083 alloy section & multiple tapped bolts to spread load.
Self tapper in bottom of extrusion screwing it to support.
Replaced the LR joke of a self tapper with 5083 alloy & 11 tapped M4 bolts each side to spread load.
Curved crossbars will only be stronger if you prevent the ends moving outwards when loading them which is not possible on roof rails.Visitor - Freelander owner
10th Sep 2020 9:32 am
Vmdave
Member Since: 12 Apr 2019
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 18
Modifying RRS roof bars to fit D3/4
Click image to enlarge
I finished the modification earlier this week.
I cut metal off each end of the roofbars incrementally so as not to stuff it up.
The alloy bar in the RRS roof bars measure 1080mm.
To make a D3 front bar I cut a total of 35mm off each end.
To make a D3 rear bar I cut a total of 50mm off each end.
The new securing screw countersunk holes had to be drilled, 6mm diameter centered 10mm from the freshly cut end.
The rubber insert also had to be cut so that it was 35mm from each end. Job done.
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