simon_arch1 wrote:

Interesting post...

And I'm sure Drivesafe/Traxide will chime in...

I ran out of time to fit my 2nd battery, so had it fitted by a LR specialist in melbourne. I had the aux battery charger/monitor and the dual power outlet fro the rear to fit. Traxide provided extra heavy duty cable included with the power outlet kit - my LR specialist didn't use it... said it was too hard to run in the D3 - so used a (still HD, but not as thick) different cable. The cable provide by Traxide would I'm sure carry sufficient power to to do what you want - but where to run it... good question.

Sorry - no answer for you though

Simon

SKP wrote:

When I purchased my D3 in June 2005, I had my dealer (MLR) run the cable to the "Anderson plug" in the rear for my Tvan, (and also fit the brake controller).
They used a subcontractor who I asked to run the cables through the chassis rail.
When I got my D3 home I checked his work; he had run the positive and negative wires (unsheaved) on the inside exterior face of the chassis, at one point less than one inch (25mm) from the exhaust header, all "secured" by plastic cable ties
(Would have been interesting on a long trip when the insulation melted off the wires and they fused together) ( they were direct wired to the battery terminals)
I then spent the weekend sheaving the positive cable and running it through the chassis rail.(connected the negative to the earth in the tail light area)
I used a drain pipe cleaning "spring" to pull a cord through. Then used the cord to pull the cable, worked well.
I also fitted a cut-out switch next to the battery so some "bright spark" could not short the "Anderson" plug.
I suppose I should have asked for a refund of the $400 odd they charged me, But I was so p d off I let it lie.
Anyway, Peter, to answer your question, its not that difficult to run the wires through the chassis rail, the only fiddly bit is over the rear axle. I am sure that if you had a length of that yellow plastic floor joining strip that sparkys use, it would be a breeze.

Bloody Hell!!! Now you know why I want to do the job myself.

I have yet to look, but are there "logical" chassis rail entry/exit points for the cable?

I do have some "yellow tongue" but am not sure that it will be long enough to do the job.

Nonetheless, it looks like feeding the cable through the roof cavity is a "non-goer". Therefore, I'll have to investigate the "chassis" option.

Thanks to both you & Simon for your replies.
Peter

Bushwanderer wrote:

In fact, Traxide is keeping quiet on this one, so I suspect that Tim hasn't done it - yet. In fact, it was Tim who suggested that I contact this forum for ideas. I'm sure that he is watching closely.

drivesafe wrote:

Bushwanderer wrote:

In fact, Traxide is keeping quiet on this one, so I suspect that Tim hasn't done it - yet. In fact, it was Tim who suggested that I contact this forum for ideas. I'm sure that he is watching closely.

Too right, I want to find out how to do it so I can save time when I do my wife’s D3.

Cheers.

Hi Drivesafe,
If you are prepared to wait until I get the technique sorted, I could do your wife's car for you (for the right price).

PS: "Stuff" arrived in good order & condition. Many Thanks

Bushwanderer wrote:

Hi All,
I have just ordered the SC80-LR multi battery charger from Traxide (in Aust.)

My intention is to charge a dual battery located in the engine bay and, also, a third battery in the caravan. Ideally, to do this, I need to run some heavy duty cables from the dual battery compartment to a location near the tow hitch. In my D1, I did this by feeding the cables through the "roof cavity" (ie. the gap between the roof and the roof lining).

I suspect that this is not an option in the D3, however, due to the presence of air bags in the A pillar.

Has anyone fed such cables through in the D3, and how did you accomplish it?

Many Thanks,
Peter

Peter, I have run cables for my rear power outlet and HF radio inside the car where the Land Rover looms are. There are two chassis bushes on the fire wall in the aux. battery area. One is up high and to the right of the steering column and the other smaller one is at the bottom left. Both are difficult to get at. The lower one is more accessible from inside the car. I used the upper one for the rear power outlet and run it on the LH side channel and used the LH lower one for the HF radio and run it on the drivers side channel. To get at those areas you need to remove the side foot panels in the driver and passenger foot wells and the plastic kick strips with the Land Rover logo, on the front and rear doors by lifting or levering them up. These reveal another plastic assembly which can be lifted to give access to the channel. The clips on these panels might fall off into the channel as you remove them! Make sure you retrieve them as they are $6 each!! A good tip is to put a rub of dry lube stick on these clips and they will be easier to remove next time and will stay attached to the panel To get over the rear wheel arch and to the rear area use a stiff wire to as a feed through.