DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How To - EPB repair/Unjam + Relatch

samg7512

Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 12

Hi miniman8

Thanks for your reply, I have took the cover off it from inside the spare wheel but unfortunately (for me) your 100% right, moth cables have come unattached some how? Is there any fool proof way of attaching all the cables? Also the threaded bar.. how much of that should be screwed in to the bronze ram thing? Thanks

27th Jul 2020 7:33 pm

miniman8

Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 93

2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java Black

Hi samg7512
There are a lot of posts on this thread with videos attached, on pg 21 Mattthetall77 second post has 2 videos one with unit in unlatched position & the other with unit working properly, start the first video in full screen mode & pause it after about 9 seconds, you will see that the white block is where yours is, then to the right is the grey cast block I mentioned, it’s this that comes unattached from the white block, inside the top of the white block is a pressure transducer which measures how much strain is achieved & at a set figure it stops the motor, you will see below the white unit is a large pawl (hook) this latches with the grey cast unit underneath, now you need to look closely it may be worth zooming in if you can because at the top edge of the grey cast unit is a sprung loaded arm this has a hook facing towards the white block when this unit is right back against the white unit it will latch & should thenbe ok, with the grey unit latched to the white unit on the right hand side of the motor all that should be visible is the threaded rod, this is attached to your near side handbrake cable, if you are under the car I would not take it all off again as that seems a lot of work, in the first video to the right of the motor you will see a bronze coloured rod with castellations running along its length, you need to wind this rod back towards the motor, it needs to turn ( as you look from under car rearward) from the top to the bottom in other words downwards, a flat bladed screwdriver is what I used, if it won’t turn with just hand force it may be jammed up so you will need to give it a few hefty wacks with a hammer on the end of your screwdriver, I now this sounds a bit brutal but the unit is remarkably tough considering it’s plastic, once you get it started it should turn by hand using the screwdriver. To save your neck get a box or large piece of foam to hold up your head, last time I wound mine back it took about 20 minutes, once you get it wound most of the way you will have to switch to winding it from white block side, when grey block gets close ( 2mm or so) keep winding & listen for an audible click this is the spring loaded latch engaging, to check it has worked wind the bronze rod the other way a bit & you should see the white block move as well when this happens I’ll be able to hear your sigh of relief from hear ha ha.
Just another hint don’t use household silicone to seal the box, use black auto silicone it seals but is pretty easy to get apart if you need to.
I know this post goes on a bit sorry but trying to give you best help I can from my experience.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
Tom

Just reread your last post is the cover on your unit facing the spare wheel if so you will need to adjust what I have advised, this unit usually faces with the cover forward, if yours is like that someone before you has changed it, makes it slightly easier to work on for sure, but the pictures in videos will be upside down to what yours looks like.
Tom

27th Jul 2020 8:29 pm

samg7512

Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 12

Thanks for the advise Tom, I have got my mates obd now that has the featur to drive motor to mounting position and drive motor to latching position so my plan is as follows..

Swear at it again and ask my self why I bought a car with electric handbrake

Then, the black threaded bar has come undone completely and I can’t spin this by hand as it turns the whole cable, so would it work if I held it in place then drove the motor to the mounting position in the hope it grabs hold of the threaded bar on the way?

Then Drive it to the latching position and turn it by hand / screwdriver until it clicks into place? Then do it the other way and see if it pulls it the white block? Then let out a massive Sigh of relief?

Quick question.. does this have anything at all to do with the cruise control? I rebuilt it slightly but left cables unattached, just got in the A road set cruise control to 50 and the car madly accelerated way PST 50 as if I slammed my foot down, turned it off and on just to test and BOOM off it goes again, dash says cruse control limit 50mph car says 80mph and leaving everyone behind!

27th Jul 2020 9:29 pm

miniman8

Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 93

Hi samg7512,
If the threaded rod is turning it sounds like the retaining nut has come out of its location on the end closest to where the handbrake cable attaches, the threaded rod does not turn it is the bronze rod that turns along the fixed threaded rod, it’s not a nut as you would know it just a plate with a thread in it which is retained in the plastic casing.
As you took the unit off to rebuild it was that retainer in the correct position when you put it back together, understanding these units is a bit of a brain scrambler, I spent ages trying to work out how they work until I found a video of how to strip one down & this showed all the different parts & how they relate to each other, once I’d seen that it all made much more sense.
You will need to get that retainer plate back in the casing to allow you to turn the bronze rod, not sure how you will be able to do this though think its time for some head scratching on your part sorry can’t help with that,
Not sure about issue with cruise control but I know the epb & cruise control are on same fuse, ( was that the handbrake cables or power cables You left unconnected, if it was power cables these cars do not like having any electrics left disconnected even if they are not working) so it makes sense that somehow they are linked, I did not have this issue when mine was broken.
After a while you will stop swearing at it & realise like I did you are not the only one with epb issues, mine had been replaced just before I bought it.
This same unit is used on many cars including Fords, Renault, Mercedes etc, they must all have similar issues, I know that’s not much consolation.
Hope this helps
Tom

27th Jul 2020 10:07 pm

samg7512

Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 12

*UPDATE* right so.. on the way home from work tonight, I got right to the front of a busy roundabout put my foot down to go and all of a sudden the car stopped blocking both lanes at 17:30 (I’m sure you can imagine the carnage) anyway I rolled the car back down the way I cane on a slight hill ((still blocking by lane of the roundabout) and tried get it going, a few other rangerovers and discovery’s drove by but no one decided to help, anyway In the end 2 guys came from a kebab house and asked if I wanted a push I gratefully said yes but warned them of the weight.. I asked if they where ready and put it in neutral nearly squashing them both

his exact word “f

k me I’ll go get the other 5” anyway the car was eventually pushed out of the way, NOW your probably wondering what this has to do with the handbrake actuator, I can now say with 99% certainty that if your messing with the handbrake actuator your fuel level will lie to you and cruise control will just do what it wants and speed off, I put a Jerry can of fuel in and jumped it off my girlfriends mini (looked very funny), boom kicked straight back in, does anyone have any idea why or how this is affected by the handbrake? One thing I can say I know that my cruise control has only been affected since messing with the actuator and the fuel too..

29th Jul 2020 7:37 pm

miniman8

Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 93

Have you pulled the fuse for the handbrake in the fuse box under the bonnet, if you have it will stop your fuel gauge working, it may well be the issue with your cruise control as well, I can’t remember which one it is but it might have blown when you took of the epb module if you did not remove fuse before disconnecting the wiring loom plug from the unit.
Hope this may help
Tom

29th Jul 2020 9:05 pm

samg7512

Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 12

*UPDATE* well I can now officially say I have a fully working EPB with no warning lights at all, turns out I messed up a bit, when I connected it back together the first time I didn’t pull the emergency release cable back to the return position so it was a bit jammed under the motor then when it went across it hit the little bearing and released the cable, We Took all the actuator and cables out and put it all back in with in like 3 hours,cruise control is now 1 mph slow but I can live with that! Big thank you to Tom and the brake bible i definitely owe you one!

1st Aug 2020 7:24 pm

miniman8

Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 93

That’s ok samg7512
Glad you got everything sorted, I know how you feel now that it’s all ok, the sense of achievement & relief is great. These are great cars & so versatile but they seem to have a mind of their own sometimes.
I’ve tackled some pretty big jobs on mine, it’s just that everything is the size of a small lorry.
Glad I could help, you will always find either an answer on here or someone to help.
Cheers
Tom

1st Aug 2020 8:19 pm

steel_nick

Member Since: 26 Jan 2018
Location: Burgas
Posts: 17

Guys,
Thx to this forum and Disco Mikey I unlatched my epb last year.
Everything was fine, until couple of weeks ago I heard the noise from hell. What I did is to switch off the engine, lock the car, unlock and switch the engine back on, meanwhile the epb red light was blinking and the yellow light was on. Tried to release and it released for my big surprise 😁. Today I got the same problem and the same happened.
So, back on the question - is it good to go over the bedding procedure or ia there something else to prevent this from happening?

Thx in advance! If U are not on the edge, U are takin too much space.

6th Aug 2020 9:00 am

miniman8

Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 93

Hi steel_nick

As it was a year ago you released epb it sounds to me like your handbrake shoes need adjusting up, they are not self adjusting so will wear as you use them, I read somewhere on here that it’s a good idea to adjust regularly to prevent the noise from hell. I would not use the epb if it was me until you have done this, I’m not saying this will fix it but it’s a relatively easy job, once that’s done run another bedding in just to be sure.
Tom

6th Aug 2020 9:19 am

samg7512

Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 12

Hi all as your probably aware Iv had issues with my EPB but all fixed now, I have just seen a post on page 5 of a screenshot from a fault mate with a option to recalibrate the accelerometer, the diagnostic I have will do it all except this.. does anyone have this option on their diagnostic and want a bit of beer money (local to staffordshire) my cruise control and fuel have never been right since messing with mine so would like to get it recalibrated instead of playing Russian roulette every time I drive past a petrol station! Also.. everyone will think I’m crazy but I haven’t done the brake bedding in procedure, what are the benefits of this?

6th Aug 2020 9:02 pm

miniman8

Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 93

Hi samg7512
I can’t help with the fault mate, I get my cousin to do all that sort of thing he has a SnapOn diagnostic which does everything.
As for the brake bedding in process it’s not really necessary (but advisable to do). Have you changed the brake shoes & or discs if so you will need to do it, the epb needs to calibrate where the shoes are relative to the drums & my understanding is it uses the measurement from the strain gauge to do this, the process is carried out 10 times & then its complete.
Someone with more knowledge may explain it better or correctly.
Tom

6th Aug 2020 9:54 pm

Silverc

Member Since: 10 Mar 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 14

2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Unknown Colour

Different symptoms of EPB fault and cant find a fix

Hi All,
Thanks for all the excellent information on this thread. I have read it a few times to try an ensure I am doing everything right, but my problem persists.

Initially, I had a screeching noise when applying the EPB. However, I didn't have to use the emergency release, as I shut off the car, switched on the ignition and released the parking brake using the button.
Later, when I tried to apply the parking brake again, I could hear no unusual noises, but I got a flashing red parking light on the dash with a parking break error message. The parking brake didn't seem to engage.
I then took things apart after reading this thread thinking I something had come loose at the brakes or in the module. I adjusted the EPB on both sides as per Brodsey's guide.
I stopped short of dismantling the park brake shoes, but undid the round plastic cable covers at the brake ends and pulled on the cable. There was tension at both sides of the car when I repeated this.
I opened the EPB module and found that the copper spindle looked to be in the middle in the correct parked position and the cables looked connected. I then tried the park brake with the module open and the spindle turned and the cables were drawn in from both sides. I then checked the 2 wheels, and both were locked tight. There was now tension on both cables entering the respective 2 wheel hubs. However, the error message had appeared on the dash. The car wouldn't release the brake, until i switched off the ignition again, waited a while and then it disengaged. Again, the spindle moved and all looked normal. However, the error persisted on the dash. Then when I tried again to apply the EBP, nothing happened due to the fault.
I'm not sure where to go next. I presume the motor in the module is fine if the spindles are turning, and I assumed the cables and the mechanism of applying the brakes is OK.
Can anyone advise ... Does it seem like the module is faulty, or should I just strip and change the shoes in case something there is causing the fault.

14th Aug 2020 11:50 am

Silverc

Member Since: 10 Mar 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 14

Changed shoes and problem seems to have gone away

15th Aug 2020 11:26 am

miniman8

Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 93

Hi silver

Glad it’s sorted, did you run the bedding in process? you will need to do this to calibrate the park brake strain gauge in the epb module as you changed the shoes. What condition were the shoes in?

Tom

15th Aug 2020 8:19 pm