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snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
  
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Last week my hand brake would not realese so i had to pull the over-ride wire ,the red park light flashed then went off and left the orange park light on but no fault appering on the disply in the middle of the dash , i tryed to adjust the rear shoes to see if that would work to reset things but no joy ,i then got a new actuator fitted to see if that would fix the problem ,but no joy there either ,next i took the battery terminals off to do a hard reset ,next when i put the terminals back on to try again i still have the orange park light on with an intermitent red park light flashing with a park brake fault written on the screen on the dash and still no brake ,, forgot to say i tryed the hand brake bed in process after fitting the actuator and it didn't work but after the hard reset i tryed it again and i managed to get the bed in process to work once so i know the hand brake works but not the way it should ,any ideas out there what i could try next 
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 15th Feb 2012 12:48 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6235
 
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You say you have had a new actuator fitted, it sounds like the system was not reset fully before the actuator was fitted. And was the epb re calibrated on finale fit.
The bedding in procedure is only applicable if you put new shoes and disk's on the rear so this would have on bearing on your fault.
Flack 
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| 15th Feb 2012 1:41 am |
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Grunders
Member Since: 30 Apr 2011
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2302
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Have you checked the EPB shoes, theres a possibilty they may be seized, i suggest a strip down and full clean out or possibly new shoes.. You'd be suprised how much dust and crud builds up inside them... If it ain't broke... Take it apart anyway, how else you gonna find out how it works
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| 15th Feb 2012 7:45 am |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
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Have you had it on a Faultmate / autologic for a full reset?
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| 15th Feb 2012 8:21 am |
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snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
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i fitted the actuator my self ,so no resets on the car have been done ,the rear shoes are all clean and free moving so will i need to get it on to a computer to reset some things 
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| 15th Feb 2012 5:36 pm |
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snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
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any more help much a appreciated 
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| 16th Feb 2012 11:49 am |
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Stuarts the man
Member Since: 22 Sep 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 423
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i replaced mine myself, with 2nd hand unit ,didnt need reset or anything. the only problem i had was the cable had come of the shoes, stupid set up. so sounded as if it was working but shoes werent moving
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| 16th Feb 2012 12:04 pm |
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snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
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i'v had an other look in to the shoes and everything is fine , it's a new actuator from TLO last week , i'm not getting any life at all at the actuator when i move the switch ,so im thinking it will have to go on to a computer and get some jiggery pokery done to it cheers for all the replys
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| 16th Feb 2012 4:18 pm |
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Stuarts the man
Member Since: 22 Sep 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 423
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is there any movement or noise
if not check fuse no8 underbonnet fusebox
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| 16th Feb 2012 5:10 pm |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
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Do you get the gear indicator on the dash showing correctly as soon as you change gear?
It's unlikely to be the EPB module itself, there are several possibilities, main one being low voltage at the EPB caused by connector corrosion. First thing to check is the 30A fuse link, number 8 in the BJB - one of the square fuses not the mini ones, if possible try a substitute EPB switch, this is actually two switches and both positions have to 'agree' for anything to happen this will just rule out a faulty switch.
Obviously there's a whole host of other possibilities but the above are the most likely and easiest to check, ideally, a DTC read needs to be carried out along with checking some of the dynamic data to identify the actual cause, though all this showed with mine was 'lost communication with epb.
Mine was actually the 12v feed to the actuator. Its a yellow/ green cable that runs from the fuselink, above the fns wheel arch and down the NS chassis rail, over the back axle where it splits into two, both then go to go into connector cavity’s G4 & H4. This is where the paperclip comes in handy, as you have to check the voltage under load - whilst its connected.
I did this by putting the car on ramps, turning ignition off and wait for the park light to go out. Then disconnect fuse link number 8 in the BJB (engine bay).
Crawl under the rear of the car and disconnect the connector from the actuator. This is really fiddly as you cannot see it, their is a safety clip that you need to press on the connector before it will undo, then shove a paperclip down the side of the 2 green/ yellow wires (G4 & H4), reconnect to the actuator, put the fuselink back in and check your reading with he ignition on you may need to wiggle the paperclip as you take your readings. If its below 10.4 then thats the fault.
Follow the two yellow/ green wires where they will then become one, the wire then goes over ithe rear axle and along the nearside chassis rail, you will them find the first join halfway along the rail under the rear passenger door. Check the voltage of the wire at this point, if it is still below 10.4 v keep following it to the connector above the front passenger wheel arch, again check voltage, this is usually where the corrosion is.
Good luck
Matt
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| 16th Feb 2012 6:42 pm |
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snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
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thanks for that info guys i'll give it a try tomorrow matty 2332 to check the voltage is it accross the two yellow/green wires or each wire independantly on to earth thanks
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| 16th Feb 2012 8:08 pm |
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Stuarts the man
Member Since: 22 Sep 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 423
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Agree with Matty did the exact same myself, it normally causes problems under p/s wheel arch cover but start from back and work back
Drop spare wheel makes it a whole lot easier
Get thick green and yellow where it goes into EPB pierce insulation before plug stick positive probe into it,and earth other one
Make sure you have good earth
Should read 12 v
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| 16th Feb 2012 9:27 pm |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
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snailcove wrote:thanks for that info guys i'll give it a try tomorrow matty 2332 to check the voltage is it accross the two yellow/green wires or each wire independantly on to earth thanks
I checked each wire independently, but as they both come from one it doesn't really matter. If it is a low voltage issue as I suspect, it will apply to both. Remember though to test them when under load - have someone pulling the handbrake switch while your underneath with your meter. To add caution, and not wanting to teach you how to suck eggs, just make sure you have some good sturdy axle stands, and as already mentioned, drop the spare wheel. Keep us posted, and you might find you have a perfectly good actuator for sale
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| 16th Feb 2012 10:22 pm |
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snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
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cheers boys i'll try and have a go tomorow if not it will be over the weekend and i;ll keep you posted
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| 16th Feb 2012 10:28 pm |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
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Drop me a pm with your email address and i will send you the wiring diagram and some other technical bulletins etc.
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| 16th Feb 2012 10:41 pm |
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