Brings back memories !!
Rusted heads & sheared bolts in the most inaccessible places. The EPB unit mounting plate is a rust trap.
I finished up leaving the mount plate in situ and grinding the two rubber "Cotton reel" top mount nuts off which hold the EPB unit to the mounting plate. Released the brake cables from the unit and removed the unit from the front after disconnecting the propshaft from the rear diff and lowering for access.
Bought four new M6 rubber mounts from Ebay for about a fiver (Only needed two).
Stripped the EPB and fitted a new nylon gear repair kit and reset the drive leadscrew. Greased the gearbox and screw etc., resealed the cover with RTV and refitted.
Replaced brake shoes & springs, adjusted and bedded in and everything has been fine since.
Original problem was EPB wound up and locked which caused the nylon gears to strip.
£30 odd for the gears against £700 for a new EPB = no contest
I remember the huge number of saw blades he used...Should have used some coolant on them
Howya doin Gary ? (John aka Irishrover) Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
22nd Aug 2019 5:32 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13608
Hiya buddy
Great to hear from u, hope all is well
Ah , so u can indeed remove the cables and just remove the box
Know I also had good fun replacing the upper wishbones , think I went through around 10 x blades but would use an air cutting wheel next time , see they do a long reach one
Great u saved a lot of money doing it that way, did wonder why he didn’t even take the cover off to have a look , also his theory of why so many EPB modules are on Ebay because people can’t be bothered
Bet that was also very satisfying not having to strip the cables out
22nd Aug 2019 6:28 pm
knwatkins
Member Since: 19 Sep 2018
Location: Poole, Dorset
Posts: 716
Thanks for posting this Gary. I'm glad this guy did another video because I found his first one doing the lower arms very entertaining.
It's probably so entertaining because so many of us DIYers without a garage can relate to his pain!Kev
MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey
The flanged head bolts are a right PITA especially where they are exposed to all the elements and muck. What makes things worse is that the hex. head is smaller than the head on a normal bolt, e.g it's 10mm across flats on a M8 bolt as oppsed to 13mm A/F for a standard bolt.
As the bolts referred to only need to be the normal 8.8 tensile strength, LR could of used Stainless which do not deteriorate considering the high price charged for their cars.
Regarding the cutting of the high tensile suspension arm bolts, I toyed with the idea of buying a reciprocating saw but after comparing the power of them decided to hire a heavy duty one from HSS which came with two metal cutting blades for around £60 for the weekend. To be safe, I also added an extra 10 blades to the hire on a sale or return basis (Pay for what you use) and I used 2 of them making a total of 4.
It's essential that a water based cutting coolant is used NOT WD40 or oil. The saw made the job easy ant it took about 10 minutes to cut through the arms, bushes and bolts. It is easier to cut through the arm iself as the guy in the video did to gain more access to cut through the bush & bolt.
Regarding the coolant, if there is an engineering workshop local, call in and ask them for around 4pints of coolant-commonly called "Suds", they use gallons of it if they do machining (Grinding, turning, drilling etc.)Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
22nd Aug 2019 8:54 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13608
knwatkins wrote:
Thanks for posting this Gary. I'm glad this guy did another video because I found his first one doing the lower arms very entertaining.
It's probably so entertaining because so many of us DIYers without a garage can relate to his pain!
Ur very welcome as indeed hoped it would be useful along with the entertainment factor
The same bong that u get in the discos every time he swore made me laugh
22nd Aug 2019 10:19 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13608
rowlejohn wrote:
The flanged head bolts are a right PITA especially where they are exposed to all the elements and muck. What makes things worse is that the hex. head is smaller than the head on a normal bolt, e.g it's 10mm across flats on a M8 bolt as oppsed to 13mm A/F for a standard bolt.
As the bolts referred to only need to be the normal 8.8 tensile strength, LR could of used Stainless which do not deteriorate considering the high price charged for their cars.
Regarding the cutting of the high tensile suspension arm bolts, I toyed with the idea of buying a reciprocating saw but after comparing the power of them decided to hire a heavy duty one from HSS which came with two metal cutting blades for around £60 for the weekend. To be safe, I also added an extra 10 blades to the hire on a sale or return basis (Pay for what you use) and I used 2 of them making a total of 4.
It's essential that a water based cutting coolant is used NOT WD40 or oil. The saw made the job easy ant it took about 10 minutes to cut through the arms, bushes and bolts. It is easier to cut through the arm iself as the guy in the video did to gain more access to cut through the bush & bolt.
Regarding the coolant, if there is an engineering workshop local, call in and ask them for around 4pints of coolant-commonly called "Suds", they use gallons of it if they do machining (Grinding, turning, drilling etc.)
Thks for the great info
I did buy a recip saw, a Makita so it was a half decent one
Indeed those bolts were a right sod , what could go wrong did , brake pipe twisted etc
Replaced the drop links and hub top bearing at the same time ,
Difference was really evident after having the suspension realigned , drives like a new motor
Plus pic of that air disc cutter , did buy the Bush extractors in the red box and pipe flaring tool , was a joy getting the old hub ones out, did buy complete arms with bushes pre fitted
Drop links were the meyle HD
Fought me all the way , took hours to get the bolt cut, if only coppaslip had been used at the factory
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