Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
It's within spec, and even at -0 under load it's still within spec!
The car should drive even with the fuse for the lpfp removed, so long as you do not accelerate hard, and is a good test of the pumps integrity.
I suspect your issue lies elsewhere such as the wiring to the HPFP and or its connectors.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
11th Feb 2024 2:20 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
Thanks for the feedback.
Indeed, I tried it with the engine running and the LPFP relay removed. Engine keeps running and pressure is dropping even below 0 !
Do you have any usual suspects for such faults (which connector to check, how to check it) ?
And ideally some pictures or a DIY ? D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
17th Feb 2024 7:48 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
What fault codes are logged?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
17th Feb 2024 2:48 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
Hey,
I tried to use my D3 lately.
It sometimes works and sometimes not. For example, today I managed to drive out of my garden. As soon as I was on the street, it stopped.
In the same time, I had all sorts of warning about the automatic gearbox not knowing its position.
The water temperature went to the max, and the red light went on on the dash.
It feels like I have a poor electrical connection at some place.
Now, I have to find our where it happens.
After a few tests, openning and closing doors, I managed to turn the truck around and drive it back in my alley. D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
28th May 2024 4:05 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
You need to post fault codes but it does sound like electrical issues / battery voltage or earth's.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th May 2024 4:10 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
Hi all,
Sorry Profsr G, I did not pull out the codes. I did it before and I had no new codes when it did not want to start.
2 days ago, it did start. I openned the bonnet and tried to remove the relays next to the battery one by one. When I removed the relay N°6, the engine stopped. I had no fault on the dash, I could run the started with the key, but the engine did not start.
I checked on the electrical drawings and followed the RL6 line. It goes throught the C0570L, C2274, C2273 and C2260/C2261 connectors.
From previous experiences with "Puget" plugs on P38, I soldered wire to wire both C2274 plugs behind the battery. The plugs were indeed quite green from oxydation.
In the same time, I removed the CJB and checked for oxydation. There is also on the C0585 plug. I am going to clean this to be on the safe side.
After this operation, the truck starts fine. Let's see if it is a solved problem.
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D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
30th May 2024 4:40 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
Yes you have a lot of "greening" going on there so best to clear that up and see how things go from there.
Also, examine carefully the bonnet seal and satisfy yourself that no water is dripping down into the Ebox as this can be catastrophic for the ECU's located there.
If you clear fault codes in most cases there will be no further codes logged until the engine cycles at least twice!! After this, if you do another scan once again fault codes should be logged. So when next you want to clear the codes email them to yourself if you are using GAP IID, and that way you will always have a point of reference.
Just for your own info and to avoid any misunderstanding the CJB is in the passenger compartment behind the glove box. The BJB is the one in front of the battery, and the Ebox is where the ECU's are stored behind the battery. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
30th May 2024 4:56 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
All re-installed and engine is running.
Let's see after a few days if my fixing is stable. D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
31st May 2024 5:49 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
Hey ProfsrG,
PROFSR G wrote:
Yes you have a lot of "greening" going on there so best to clear that up [...]
I did not clear all the oxydation. I cut wire by wire, and solder them together. We always fix Range P38 using this technique. It is a lot more reliable than cleaning the plugs.
PROFSR G wrote:
Also, examine carefully the bonnet seal and satisfy yourself that no water is dripping down into the Ebox as this can be catastrophic for the ECU's located there. [...]
Checked : all ok. It stays dry even with raining outside.
PROFSR G wrote:
Just for your own info and to avoid any misunderstanding the CJB is in the passenger compartment behind the glove box. The BJB is the one in front of the battery, and the Ebox is where the ECU's are stored behind the battery.
Indeed. After fixing the black and white plugs in the engine compatment, I removed the CJB and checked / cleaned the C0585 plug. D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
31st May 2024 5:59 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
Hi all,
Back here. I could use the Disco for 3 days in a row without any issue.
Then I drove back home, hoovered it... And after hoovering when I wanted to move it, it did not want to start !
Same symptoms : everything appears ok on the dash. Preheating ok, no error message, starter ok, engine rotating. But not starting.
I tried to open and close doors, lock / unlock. And after that, it did start.
I does confirm I have a short somewhere.
I pulled fault codes before cleaning. So after 3 days of using the car. I had :
Engine faults : P0405, P138E, P1335, P0404 (2x). And the car ran ok.
After cleaning, after the fault and once it started again :
Engine faults : P0405, P138E, P1335, P0404 (2x). Exactly the same faults. So the issue is not on the engine controler.
I also checked the body controler. I had the following faults :
B1A93 (sunroof), B1B02 (Front Left solenoid), B1C82 (headlights washer), B1C96 (alarm LED).
B1A98 (LIN bus)
I cleared the alarms, cycled the system a few time and read the codes again.
It came up with : B1B02 (Front Left solenoid), B1C82 (headlights washer), B1C96 (alarm LED), B1D14 (interior lights)
And the engine is running ok.
So I guess I have a problem linked to the body controler fault code B1A98 (LIN bus).
Any ideas where this bus goes and where are the connectors ? D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
5th Jun 2024 11:29 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
Hi all,
Another bug on this truck.
I parked it under my apple tree. It was running very fine. And after 3 days, it did not want to start anymore.
Instead of “P” for “Park” on the dash, I have “F”.
Any idea where to look for a short ?
Click image to enlarge
Or is it a ECU that is having a bug ?
Thanks for your help !!! D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
12th Jun 2024 12:08 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
Looks like a TCM calibration or transmission/electrical issue amongst others. What codes are being logged?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
12th Jun 2024 12:12 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
Hello,
I have the following DTC on the main ECU's :
B1A98 LIN bus header error. Value of signal protection calculation incorrect.
B1B02 LF Coil internal failure. Signal bias level out of range/zero adjustement failure.
B1C82 Headlamp washer Relay coil. Circuit short to ground or open.
B1C96 Alarm LED. Circuit open.
B1D05 Tailgate Release Lower. Circuit short to battery or open.
U0155 Lost communication with Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Control Module. Missing Message.
U0010 Medium speed CAN Communication Bus. Bus off.
U2023 Fault received from external node (engine torque information). Signal invalid.
U0401 Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM. Signal invalid.
IPC No DTCS found D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
12th Jun 2024 1:13 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
I'd start with battery voltage/earths etc as these are regular fault culprits, especially if the voltage drop when cranking is approaching sub 12.3vyµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
12th Jun 2024 1:22 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 103
Hi,
Yesterday and today, it does not crank. So it can not be the voltage when cranking.
Indeed, a ground that is loosy or a plug that has a poor connection on the bus line is very probable. D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (parts for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : everyday car
Series 3 pickup : ongoing project (chassis corroded + leaks + paint)
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D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
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