Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
Hi Ruud,
Welcome to the silly club.
The grommet in question is on the Right hand (driver's)side in a RHD vehicle. This grommet is for the clutch cable on manual vehicles.
I don't know if you have a different firewall though, as I guess your brake master cylinder is on the LHS.
Are there any LHD manual vehicles?
Best Wishes,
PeterThe Bearded Dragon
14th Dec 2010 1:04 am
MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
Location: away
Posts: 10723
Beside the Brake Servo on RHD D3's
14th Dec 2010 1:12 am
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Windy Corner wrote:
I have been having issues in the cold with my traxide, it is currently disconnected.
In the cold weather the YT seems to drag the cranking battery charge level down and the short runs that I do never seem to get either battery anywhere near where it needs to be. I didn't have a problem over the summer, and the cranking battery was replaced in the spring with the uprated one.
Now it is disconnected there doesn't seem to be any issue
I think there is an issue with the "cut out" voltage being too low for the cold weather conditions, but only on cars that are not used everyday or do short runs only (like mine) where the battery is exposed to a period of time at the low level without a long enough trip to fully charge it.
Rik
Hi Windy Corner, while not disputing what your saying but under normal conditions where short trips are the norm, you should be better off leaving the SC80-LR connected.
While the short trips will not replace all the charge you use while starting, with the SC80-LR connected, once the motor is started, you will be replacing twice as much power in the short drive times than you will with only one battery being charged during your short drive times.
For you to be having a problem while the SC80-LR is connected, but not having a problem once it’s disconnected, then you should now have a flat auxiliary battery.
This is a common situation and in almost every case, the auxiliary battery tends to hold what ever charge it had when it was disconnected, but cranking battery was about to give up the ghost.
you will be replacing twice as much power in the short drive times than you will with only one battery being charged during your short drive times.
Do you mean that the alternator will work twice as hard ?
When the YT was disconnected, I took the opportunity to fully charge it, but after 6 hours or so it only ever got to 75%, not sure why it got so discharged though as I only ever run the sat nav from it.
I don't think the cranking battery is about to give up the ghost as it is less than a year old. I think I will give it all a good charge over the weekend, connect the Sc40 and see what happens
Thanks again
RikDiscovery 4 HSE SDV6 Baltic Blue
Discovery 3 S TDV6 Zambezi Silver - Now gone........
Leicestershire & Rutland 4x4 Response
14th Dec 2010 5:45 pm
nighthawk
Member Since: 24 Jul 2010
Location: Malta
Posts: 1163
Bushwanderer wrote:
The grommet in question is on the Right hand (driver's)side in a RHD vehicle. This grommet is for the clutch cable on manual vehicles.
Does this mean that there is no suitable grommet for the battery cable on manual vehicles? Anyone with a manual D3 fitted a dual battery system?
Dennis
14th Dec 2010 8:17 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Windy Corner wrote:
Tim,
Thanks for spotting my post and replying
Quote:
you will be replacing twice as much power in the short drive times than you will with only one battery being charged during your short drive times.
Do you mean that the alternator will work twice as hard ?
When the YT was disconnected, I took the opportunity to fully charge it, but after 6 hours or so it only ever got to 75%, not sure why it got so discharged though as I only ever run the sat nav from it.
I don't think the cranking battery is about to give up the ghost as it is less than a year old. I think I will give it all a good charge over the weekend, connect the Sc40 and see what happens
Thanks again
Rik
Hi again Windy, if your auxiliary battery is only charging to about 75%, it might pay you to leave the SC40-LR disconnected until you see if you can fully charge the YT with a longer charging time.
If the YT doesn’t fully charge then this may very well be the problem.
As far as age of a battery goes, unfortunately, they can fail at any time, at least while under warranty, they are free to get replaced.
Again, please keep us all informed.
As for the alternator working twice as hard. With the amount of power needed just to run all the D3’s electrics, it’s only a marginal increase in power needed to charge two batteries instead of one, depending on how low either or both batteries are but when needed, the D3’s alternator can easily charge three or four LOW batteries at the same time.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
RikDiscovery 4 HSE SDV6 Baltic Blue
Discovery 3 S TDV6 Zambezi Silver - Now gone........
Leicestershire & Rutland 4x4 Response
14th Dec 2010 8:54 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi Ruud, if you get a torch and shine it down the back of the auxiliary battery compartment, right down the bottom at the rear, next to the outer wall of the battery compartment, you will see a plastic grommet.
Once you see the location of the grommet, go into the cabin and if you pull the carpet away from the firewall in side the cab behind the accelerator peddle, you can then slide your hand up under the insulation to a point where you can push the grommet into the battery compartment with your fingers.
You can then run two fairly thick cables from the engine bay to the cabin and back to the rear of the D3 via this hole.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
14th Dec 2010 9:01 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
There you go Ruud, Windy even has photos in that link.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
14th Dec 2010 9:03 pm
lrd3 Ruud
Member Since: 07 Dec 2010
Location: Maarssen
Posts: 96
Hi Drive safe,
Thanks for your reply mate, makes things a lot easier.
What size of cables would you suggest to run to the back of my car?
I do get a compressor which pulls 23 amp and there is a 12volt to 230volt converter, 600watt.
The converter pulls 20 amp as well. (i thought)
There might be another add on like two working lamps on the back.
Hope you can give me an idea.
You might know this aswell, what's the maximum amps / mm2 cable diameter?
Thanx, Ruud Happy are those who dream dreams and are willing to pay the price to see them come true.
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi again Ruud, The biggest cables you can get through that hole is 16mm2, both the RED and BLACK ( Positive and Negative ) cables will fit but it’s tight. If you use Twin Sheathed cable, you have to remove about 60cm of the sheath or the cable won't fit the hole.
Also, start at the driver’s door, run the cable from the driver’s cab into the battery compartment and then run the rest of the cable back the other way to the rear cargo area.
The D3/4 are the easiest vehicles I have ever come across for running cable to the rear so you shouldn’t have to much trouble.
Just a suggestion but try fitting a 50 amp Anderson plug on the cable at the rear and then fit 50 amp Anderson plug to all your accessories, then you can run any high current device without having problems with power sockets getting over heated.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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