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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10510
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Driving & Maintaining the Turbo |
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We are all aware of problems with the LR Turbo.
The question is how best to treat it when driving, and what (if any) routine preventative will prolong the life of the turbo.
When I was a pilot (PPL not CPL) I was always told that turbocharged engines should not be allowed after starting, save for a few seconds to allow oil to circulate to all parts of the engine - particularly in cold weather.
I was also told that before turning off the engine it should be allowed to idle for some time, so that the turbo cooled down - this allegedly reduced the build up of carbon in the turbo.
I have applied both these principles to all tubocharged cars I have owned, both petrol and diesel.
I would appreciate comments on the above from those younger & better informed that I.
On the preventative maintenance side I use Redex from time to time, & Forte on the mid service oil changes that my Indy does.
Might it be sensible to use "Subaru upper engine cleaner", in the USA & UK Seafoam, from time to time:-
http://www.ukseafoamseller.co.uk/
Also see this thread:-
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic68257.html
NJSS Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
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10th Aug 2011 9:57 am |
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amazing
Member Since: 05 Mar 2011
Location: chengdu
Posts: 1542
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Allowing to cool before turning off...on a very hot raced engine underbonnet (hood)temperatures increase initially if it is left at tick over as there is no flow of air..better to drive moderately before coming to a stop allowing the air to do its job.
other than that drive it like you hate it..turbos need to be spun and to get hot..very hot to prevent most common issues.e.g.sticky vanes. sooting.
I believe the " leave it at idle for a while" stemmed from the nissan sylvia turbo which if turned off after a blast the oil feed pipe to the turbo would overheat thus burning some oil inside and gradually clog starving the turbo of oil. maybe some one can confirm this?
but do allow oil to get to temp. before gunning it.
Apart from that good oil and air filters a must. It is better to have and not need it then need and not have it.
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10th Aug 2011 10:11 am |
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bigdave
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9869
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When i got my D3 in 2007 i had alot of work done under warranty, namely a new turbo and intercooler.
This was done at 33k - im now at 97k on that turbo.
(Not wanting to tempt fate) I ALWAYS give it 30 seconds before driving off and before stopping to let the oil circulate fully.
Also every diesel ive ever had I have gunned through the gears to max revs at least once a week, when fully up to temp of course. My D3 does not smoke even a smigde and the last check by TFC and his box of electronic monitoring showed the engine running smoother than an MP,s expenses claim form!!
Just my two pennies worth.
Dave
All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
E-mail [email protected]
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10th Aug 2011 10:24 am |
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Jim1000
Member Since: 26 Jun 2011
Location: Twickenham, Middlesex, UK
Posts: 315
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Interesting. My old man was an engineer so I have a lot drummed into me, but (against my wife's arguments) I like to allow 30-60 seconds idle before pulling-away. Drive like a granny until warmed and then drive pretty calmly at all other times.
I was thinking like you said that once a week at least I should give it a good high revving for a few seconds. Is it OK being done when stationery in park?
---
I often believe that the way you treat/drive a car is 90% of a car's preventative maintenance.
My missus reduces a car's life by half! Nov 04 D3 TDV6 HSE Java Black
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10th Aug 2011 11:02 am |
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bigdave
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9869
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I used to rep for about 15 years and every year I was given a new diesel car and the only to get it to shift was to nail the to the red line often and long.
Always had angood effect in the long term.
Also a couple of farmers I know do this with their plant diesels, slam the sods as often as possible to keep them running smooth and efficient !
I'm not sure statiOnary is a good idea tho, I always do mine on a long run All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
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10th Aug 2011 11:12 am |
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Jim1000
Member Since: 26 Jun 2011
Location: Twickenham, Middlesex, UK
Posts: 315
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Hard to slam a 3 ton lump with a dictatorial auto box!
I suppose using shift command as I come onto a motorway, I can hold the gears bringing the revs up until I reach speed is a good move.
But, what rev count for a TDV6 is OK to go to??? Nov 04 D3 TDV6 HSE Java Black
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10th Aug 2011 11:15 am |
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bigdave
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9869
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4500 + Depending on road conditions and safety. All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
E-mail [email protected]
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10th Aug 2011 11:28 am |
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bigdave
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9869
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I have put the odd half bottle of red ex in too.
I had a little soot a few months back on hard power, dropped half a bottle in the tank, and hey presto clean as a whistle since.
All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
E-mail [email protected]
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10th Aug 2011 11:32 am |
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Jim1000
Member Since: 26 Jun 2011
Location: Twickenham, Middlesex, UK
Posts: 315
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Is this basic Redex for diesel engines you get in the garage or at Halfords? Nov 04 D3 TDV6 HSE Java Black
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10th Aug 2011 11:34 am |
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stapldm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
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Don't worry, the engine management seems to know what the red line is - mine never makes it beyond 4200 before the next gear comes along. Mind you, that's Auto and I don't know what Manuals are treated to by the engine management; do they stop the fuel above red-line to bring it in check?
I too subscribe to BigDave's methods, and have had turbo cars with 220,000+ miles on them without turbo or auto gearbox issues.
Never ever ever red-line a cold engine unless your life depends on it; it's suicide for the engine. I keep my RPM around the 2000 mark until the temp needle is halfway.
I find my favoured red-line turbo workout is on acceleration ramps onto quiet motorways that have traffic lights controlling the entry. Wait at the red light, pushing the stick over into Sports mode then at green (not amber ) grind the accelerator pedal into the carpet (this exercises the kick-down linkage) and hold it there, allowing the auto to change up at each red-line. I do this once or twice a week. For experimental reasons I have tried it twice in twenty minutes, and was able to see light soot in the exhaust the first time and none the second, so there's a good chance it's working as an approach.
There's no point in doing this stationary - if there's no load on your engine then there's no load on your turbo; sure it's spinning but it's not working hard, and therefore it's not getting really hot nor are there massive whirlwinds of air scouring the vanes for you. Much better to integrate it into your daily drive where you have lots of nice cooling air coming through your engine bay (not that I can see any of that reaching the outside of the turbo) and work it damned hard without annoying your neighbours.
It's all down to a general rule I was told by an expert mechanic many years before electronics were used in cars. Quote:If there's a part that should move, then make sure it gets moved often or it'll seize up and won't move when you need it to In this case he was referring to the waste-gate actuator on a turbo, but it seems to fit everywhere, so every week I use HDC, off-road height, all positions of the gear lever, access height, the electric park brake, high/low ratio change , ABS(I can only safely check this when it's rained and I'm on a road near where I live that always has diesel spilled on it from the newly fuelled up artics) electric windows, door mirror fold - anything that should move that I can safely exercise gets exercised.
If there was somewhere that I could cross axle the suspension near me, I'd do that too to exercise the limits of the components, but sadly I haven't found anywhere I can (legally) do this.
By the way, I was advised to ignore the manufacturers advice when running in the engine, and instead to do lots of high torque / low revs work (never even close to red-line) to force the piston rings to bed in quickly before they were forge hardened by the hammering of the high pressure diesel ignition. This approach only works in the first couple of thousand miles (after which the rings are hardened and set in position and so can no longer easily expand into the bore of the cylinder) and requires a filter/oil change after it to remove the extra swarf it creates.
I'm now at 60,000 miles and apart from during those first few months have never had to top up the oil as it remains at the top bead on the dip-stick for the full 15,000 miles. Anyone else successfully used this running in approach?
Sorry, that all got a bit big for a quick reply Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
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10th Aug 2011 12:10 pm |
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bigdave
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9869
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Yep had mine since 32k and now at 97k and never had to top up the oil ever.
Note I have had to replace virtually everything else mind you but thats for another day............. All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
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10th Aug 2011 12:14 pm |
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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
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Totally agree with stapldm, though sadly SWMBO gets daily use of our Disco so cannot enforce "maintenance runs" until the weekend - which is good enough I guess
stapldm wrote:...grind the accelerator pedal into the carpet (this exercises the kick-down linkage) and hold it there...
Thanks for this tip, I had never thought of the kick-down link... I suppose that will be exercised if in command shift (manual) as well? Would hard braking (not engaging the ABS though) similarly exercise "kick-up"? Or would the occasional EPB in motion work best?
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10th Aug 2011 12:27 pm |
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discoteca
Member Since: 08 Mar 2010
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 1477
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I drive like miss daisy a lot of the time so i have a specific routine - wednesday nights am usually doing the same jouney home at about 10.30pm, i have to turn left onto a dual carrigeway that is almost certainly deserted at that time so I actually go through each gear as I pull out (its manual) not quite flat out, to 4000 rpm, until I am about at the legal limit obviously
It was surprising how much c p came out the back the first few times I did this.
Is it childish to say that I also wind the windows down becuase i like the noise it makes?
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10th Aug 2011 1:03 pm |
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Jim1000
Member Since: 26 Jun 2011
Location: Twickenham, Middlesex, UK
Posts: 315
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Without meaning to go off-topic, my favourite sound is when I back out of the drive when the engine's gold in the mornings. Instead of the tractor rattle and rumble, it has a small jet engine kind of roar. Makes me feel like it can take off!!
Also, now I can print-off this post and have an excuse to tell my wife why I need to put my foot down occasionally! Nov 04 D3 TDV6 HSE Java Black
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10th Aug 2011 1:07 pm |
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