Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
It will be straight forward, but without it in front of me Im no help at all, for simplicity you cant beat the original element as it will just work for many years.
Just bear in mind no matter what they are all two wire affairs regardless how they are fed their power from the controls.
4th Oct 2017 4:29 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Pics of burnt element and new foam and element part numbers, ordered from chassis number from dealer, 06 model leather seats, guy reckoned they sold quite a few of them.
4th Oct 2017 4:34 am
ClassikFan
Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1026
When I replaced the heater element in the seat of my D2 I replaced the hog rings with small zip ties on re assembly. Much easier to work with IMO.
4th Oct 2017 7:00 am
CJP2017
Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: London
Posts: 183
lynalldiscovery wrote:
Pics of burnt element and new foam and element part numbers, ordered from chassis number from dealer, 06 model leather seats, guy reckoned they sold quite a few of them.
i managed to find a used seat base for £50 with the heated element, i think im gonna go for that rather than a new element alone for £90+VAT. the guy im getting them off has more than 1. if anyone is in need of one, let me know, so i can order two at the same time for some discount
8th Oct 2017 11:25 am
CJP2017
Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: London
Posts: 183
ClassikFan wrote:
When I replaced the heater element in the seat of my D2 I replaced the hog rings with small zip ties on re assembly. Much easier to work with IMO.
thanks mate, i used cable ties too when replacing the base, couldnt be bothered to get the clips as i know its a real pain, so used some strong cable cable ties and tightened, then cut off the remaining bit of the cable tie.
all works fine now. chewed 1/4 T40 seat base screws, so removed entire seat (5 bolts, T50) and then got out the chewed screw, got out the base, replaced it and refitted, all good now.
mine had a burnt hole, burnt the foam too and a bit of the leather.
thanks
15th Oct 2017 11:41 pm
ClassikFan
Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1026
16th Oct 2017 6:10 am
Surfer
Member Since: 14 Oct 2008
Location: brighton
Posts: 30
My turn for heated seat failure
Just as its getting cold my drivers seat heating failed (05 HSE) just paid out for a second compressor so I have decided not to get LR to fix my seat base - they diagnosed it as needing new base / open circuit.
I can source a new base and leather element at reasonable cost but concerned is it a reasonably simple job to do..? Can the leather seat cover be removed easily with the seat in place or is it better left to an upholsterer..? I'm quite hands on but wary of causing more trouble.
Any advice would be really appreciated..
17th Jan 2019 10:22 pm
ClassikFan
Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1026
I swapped the passenger seat occupancy sensor from one seat base to the other earlier this year. The heater element will be a bit bigger but the job shouldn't be too difficult.
The seat bases come off fairly easily so you don't have to remove the complete seat.Just 'cause you got the power... that don't mean you got the right.
18th Jan 2019 7:33 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8072
Surfer:
Four torque screws hold the base down, if you raise the seat to max and max forward, open rear door you will see the two rear torque screws, the easy ones, it is imperative you use the correct size torque bit as it is very easy to use a size smaller which will round the screw socket off, they are usually very tight. Go to the front put the seat max back and up, take the two front out, the squab will now lift up, at this stage take photo of the cables under the squab so you know where to replace them, unplug the cables and lift the squab out.
The heating element always fails where the seat creases which is a single wire and can usually be repaired with a short piece of wire soldered across the break.
Hardest part is re-fitting the front torque screws, usual fiddly upside down job, 1/4” ratchet essential. Afternoons job It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
18th Jan 2019 9:54 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
ClassikFan wrote:
When I replaced the heater element in the seat of my D2 I replaced the hog rings with small zip ties on re assembly. Much easier to work with IMO.
Same here a lot easier as you can start the zip tie and work your way around the seatMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
18th Jan 2019 10:48 pm
Surfer
Member Since: 14 Oct 2008
Location: brighton
Posts: 30
Amazing - thanks guys - Did wonder if I could just solder the failed piece in the element but I think it would fail again as the seat base is so thin now.. My other thought was to get an Indy / upholsterer to do it - does anyone have a recommendation in Sussex..?
18th Jan 2019 11:33 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
If your handy with a soldering iron you can cut out the burnt section of heat element and replace with a new section of wire to form the loop
Has the seat burnt through ? As your asking for a reupholster. It is doable with patientsMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
20th Jan 2019 3:33 pm
Surfer
Member Since: 14 Oct 2008
Location: brighton
Posts: 30
I did think that - but the seat base is very thin so I assume it would overheat / burn through again..? Pushed for time this month and it's getting cold..! Upholsterer would be worth a try if anyone has got any recommendations in Sussex..?
22nd Jan 2019 7:15 am
oldstout
Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: North East England
Posts: 247
lynalldiscovery wrote:
Pics of burnt element and new foam and element part numbers, ordered from chassis number from dealer, 06 model leather seats, guy reckoned they sold quite a few of them.
Hmmm...
...this would explain my almost burnt backside last week followed by having no heated drivers seat.
Another ballache job then and also '06 seats... You can't educate pork...
26th Mar 2019 2:58 pm
Lrstaylor
Member Since: 04 Oct 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 589
This is actually a very common fault having done my heated seats on my p38 you can simply cut out the burnt wire and solder the 2 ends together or solder in new wire. I uprated my p38 stat at the same time unlike the D3 no heat setting just luke warm which didnt cut it for me.
Yes use cable ties instead of hog rings and if all else fails you can buy new heated seat pads on the bay for very little money which work just as well if not better you just use contact sray gkue and fix it over the old one....job done.
I fixed and uprated a fair few p38 seats this way if i can find the link there is a step by step guide to follow
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
and also '06 seats... 
