Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 589
Door locks not all unlocking/locking
Hi,
I've read the threads on door actuators, but before I start swapping, I'd like to hear opinions on if it could be something else first?
When I press the lock/unlock button on the fob, 3 out of 4 doors open. To unlock the driver's door, I have to press the fob three times ish. Sometimes the rear offside doesn't open on first press and needs a second to open it.
If I leave the car unlocked after switching off the engine, if I try to open the upper tailgate, it appears locked. A press on the key fob sorts it.
Is there a main control box for the door locks as I'm thinking (if there is) it may be this at fault and perhaps not the actuators?
Manually, everything works fine, it's just when I use the fob. I've tried both fobs and a fresh battery recently so I don't think it's the fob.
Any ideas folks?
Cheers
24th Sep 2021 1:54 pm
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 589
Anybody?
I was wondering if there is a master control or whether I'm just unlucky and have a few failing all at the same time? Seems strange that more than one door plays up at a time. But hey, it is a Land Rover
27th Sep 2021 8:10 am
mark the spark
Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: southampton
Posts: 2521
its the actuator for sure, the mechanism gets weak and dosent always throw the latch hence your multiple tries then it works . if youve not done one before its a right faff but once you have the knack its not so bad
will rip up your skin on the back of your hand a bit tho MY05 SE D3 Manual my first LR what a car
MY10 HSE D4 auto
MY14 XXV more buttons than the spaceshuttle
27th Sep 2021 8:55 am
ballast
Member Since: 13 Apr 2007
Location: South Midlands
Posts: 185
Yep, actuator. Just had a weekend of joy with them. I stripped one down and the brushes in the motor are completely shot. Stupidly bought a second-hand one which wasn't much better. Ordered new and it's here tomorrow. A bit of a faff as noted above, but very good Powerful UK on the topic and after you've done it four times, it gets easier. Taking the outer door handle off makes it easier too.
Chris
27th Sep 2021 8:58 am
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 589
Ok. Cheers for the advice. New actuators it is then. Original or aftermarket? I'm guessing original for peace of mind.
27th Sep 2021 9:24 am
mark the spark
Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: southampton
Posts: 2521
cant comment re aftermarket as only ever fitted OEM one sMY05 SE D3 Manual my first LR what a car
MY10 HSE D4 auto
MY14 XXV more buttons than the spaceshuttle
27th Sep 2021 9:50 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8230
jamez79 wrote:
Ok. Cheers for the advice. New actuators it is then. Original or aftermarket? I'm guessing original for peace of mind.
No need for new actuators
90% of failures are due to the biggest motor of the two inside the actuator needing cleaning or replacing, this is the one with a worm drive sprocket on it. It can be done providing you have time, patience and ability, see my other posts on the subject, new motors with long shafts can be purchased for around £5.
What is very important that you do them ASAP, if the door fails to open altogether which it will a tedious job becomes a very expensive nightmare as the only way to gain access is by removing the seat and destroying the door card
See my old posts on the subject.
This motor was cleaned with electrical cleaner spray, refitted and worked perfect for a number of years until I parted with the car.
New motor, must be the long shaft type.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
27th Sep 2021 10:43 am
ballast
Member Since: 13 Apr 2007
Location: South Midlands
Posts: 185
I've gone for new Land Rover, but they're not cheap. I also did the full motor strip down on both the original and the second hand one that I bought and the brushes were completely worn.
Chris
28th Sep 2021 6:38 am
s60r
Member Since: 14 Mar 2021
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 287
My 2014 is under warranty, the previous owner kept it in house all its first 5 years and I’ve just renewed for another year. (Not cheap though! 1300 quid with full cover and recovery hire car etc).
My point with the above is that usually I would do what you guys above are doing and tackle it myself…. But I just let the dealer do it and it wasn’t easy by the sounds of it!
I had a noisy actuator in one of the doors so whilst in having cam belts done I got them to look at it. They decided it needed a “whole new locking mechanism” and costed it at £465…… the first lock they ordered couldn’t be made to work so they ordered another and it’s now fine. It took the dealer 2 days in all to sort mine and just under 500 quid so if it can be DIY then fair play…… perhaps the dealer was either inept or telling porkies but they really struggled.
It also had a leak in the power steering and turbo union (all sorted easily under warranty) so if yours are a similar age worth a quick check as they said all of these things are quite common after 5/6 years.A mod a week until I have nothing to improve or add.
28th Sep 2021 6:55 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8230
ISTR LR charge is 1 hours labour plus the actuator cost.
The main thing to check periodically is that all doors lock, drivers walk away assuming they have but it is possible one or more is faulty and hasn’t even though the indicators etc have flashed to say they are locked.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
28th Sep 2021 8:07 am
mark the spark
Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: southampton
Posts: 2521
thats a good shout by M3DPO
even more important if you have keyless entry as you never really know till a non keyholder tries a Door !
so its keys out of range and try them doors fellas i bet theres a few in for a surprise ! and then a quick sprint to the key to turn the alarm off .....not that anyone will hear it MY05 SE D3 Manual my first LR what a car
MY10 HSE D4 auto
MY14 XXV more buttons than the spaceshuttle
28th Sep 2021 2:20 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6754
M3DPO wrote:
ISTR LR charge is 1 hours labour plus the actuator cost.
The main thing to check periodically is that all doors lock, drivers walk away assuming they have but it is possible one or more is faulty and hasn’t even though the indicators etc have flashed to say they are locked.
Yes, this is an excellent tip. I found out by accident that one door didn’t latch properly when my daughter pulled the door handle and the alarm went off. We then tried all the other doors, too, and I ended up replacing two actuators.
28th Sep 2021 8:23 pm
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 589
I've been on night shifts, but will get a replacement ordered asap.
Out of interest, as long as the inner manual lock is working (the silver pull push bit on the inner handle), surely I'd still be able to open the door if the electric motor failed?
Wouldn't it only get stuck if the actuator snapped rather than the motor not working to open/close properly?
Either way, I won't risk it but just curious.
Cheers
30th Sep 2021 11:59 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8230
No it will NOT open unless you are very, very lucky and if it does don’t close it because it won’t open a second time. Having a fully charged battery and a good thump on the door has been known to persuade the lock to co-operate but don’t rely on it. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
30th Sep 2021 3:18 pm
beerbelly
Member Since: 07 Sep 2020
Location: teesside
Posts: 87
my o/s/r door hasn't ever locked or unlocked via the remote (strange as my last sport was exactly the same same door everything ) but locks and unlocks fine by the internal lever . you can hear the actuator making a thump noise when you press the fob but it does nothing
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