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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10480
  
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| Door lock - Maintenance & how to remove locks ? |
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What maintenance should be undertaken to the door locks.
Reading of people with problems accessing the car through the passenger's door using the emergency unlocking procedure, I thought that it would be sensible to test the manual unlocking of the passenger's door - it's very stiff.
I am proposing to soak it in WD40, or is there something better?
Whilst at it I will do whatever is recommended to the boot & bonnet locks & the other 3 doors.
Advice please?
NJSS Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
Last edited by NJSS on 4th Feb 2020 9:38 am. Edited 1 time in total
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 3rd Feb 2020 11:10 am |
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Browny90
Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: Ashbourne
Posts: 687
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The manual lock is, as i'm sure you know very easy to remove.
I think I'll remove mine and work the mechanism with some penetrating oil, I don't think I'll soak it, just keep working the key & mechanism through the motions, that should free everything up. I'll try and give it a try tonight..
I also have a spare one, although I don't have a key for it.. it came with a replacement door and I obviously swapped it for mine, I may section it or have a general look inside for interest.. Disco4 MY16 SDV6 Landmark Black
Disco4 MY12 SDV6 XS Orkney Grey (Gone)
Defender 90 200tdi Completely rebuilt.
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| 3rd Feb 2020 11:22 am |
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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10480
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I have been directed here:-
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/lock-oil-17...+door+lock
where charlietortoise said:-
Quote:I would not put wd40 near any car lock, ok on a padlock. The steering lock on my D2 stopled working, when I took it apart (tricky) I found the lock was a series of sliding brass plates, the oil stickied then up so when a high part of the key passed them the didnt self slide back to engauge with the small part.
Once dried off they worked fine. I only used dry graphite after that. It comes in a puffer bottle so you just puff it in and work the key
So maybe my thoughts of oil are entirely wrong.
Browny90 - many thanks.
Can you direct me to instruction on how to remove the manual lock please.
NJSS Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
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| 3rd Feb 2020 11:50 am |
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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10480
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BUMP 
Can anyone please direct me to instructions on how to remove the manual lock please, as suggested by Browny90.
NJSS Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
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| 4th Feb 2020 9:38 am |
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Browny90
Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: Ashbourne
Posts: 687
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If you open the door, immediately next to the key mechanism but on the inside edge of the door (like above the lock mechanism) there is a small grommet, remove that and there is a grub screw.
I think it's a torx (maybe T20/25)
If I remember rightly you don't have to remove it all the way, just keep loosening and giggling the part where you put your key
👍 Disco4 MY16 SDV6 Landmark Black
Disco4 MY12 SDV6 XS Orkney Grey (Gone)
Defender 90 200tdi Completely rebuilt.
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| 4th Feb 2020 9:56 am |
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RogB
Member Since: 15 Jun 2018
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 1650
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my drivers door sometimes doesn't unlock on first press of the button, but for now always opens on 2nd press.
I spray some WD40 into all the mechanism every couple of months so far just to keep them moving, especially the boot as this sometimes doesn't lock in first time when you shut it.
it seems door lock mechanisms are a bug bear across the LR range as FL2 and Ewok both suffer from the same problems. 2011 D4 XS 305 MY12 - gone but not forgotten
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| 4th Feb 2020 10:04 am |
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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10480
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Thank-you - Browny90
I note what RogB says. There seem to be two camps WD40 & dry graphite.
I lean towards using dry graphite, but wonder if I can simply puff dry graphite into all the mechanism every couple of months, or need to strip the lock?
NJSS Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
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| 4th Feb 2020 10:11 am |
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Browny90
Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: Ashbourne
Posts: 687
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I think maybe Rog is talking of a different issue, there is a clear issue with locking mechanisms, I've had 3 replaced, its not through lack of use, as the kids are in and out as much as we are. I think they're just crap and fail.. I think its common for the mechanism to fail, but usually individually.
I had one go, my kids kept opening the door and the alarm would go off, it took me a while to realise that their door wasn't locking, but there was no indication (apart from you could open the door when the car was locked of course, it could have been like that from when I bought it for all I knew, now I check all the doors if we're leaving he car somewhere especially overnight.
Then there is the issue of not being able to manually unlock from the passenger door in case of key failure. I think this is mainly down to lack of use, many people will never use it, or even know its there for maintenance. Disco4 MY16 SDV6 Landmark Black
Disco4 MY12 SDV6 XS Orkney Grey (Gone)
Defender 90 200tdi Completely rebuilt.
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| 4th Feb 2020 10:30 am |
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RogB
Member Since: 15 Jun 2018
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 1650
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my apologies I wasn't very clear - yes im referring to manufacturing issues on the door lock mechanisms rather than lack of use/over use.
I just use WD40 as I seem to have acquired loads of part used cans in the garage over the last few years 
I would rather use a more suitable lubricant such as dry graphite or similar but WD40 seems to do the job ok 2011 D4 XS 305 MY12 - gone but not forgotten
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| 4th Feb 2020 10:41 am |
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sheddist
Member Since: 28 Jan 2019
Location: Telford
Posts: 12
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Door latch actuator failure is due to grease migration in the lock/unlock actuator. This issue is common to a number of latches across different vehicle manufactuers becsuse the same grease is/was used!
Liberally squirting WD 40 or similar is likely to accelerate motor failure.
Best is to wipe a little grease onto the part that rotates when the stiker contacts the latch, there are faces on this that engage with a pawl, and a little greaese lubrication is beneficial.
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| 7th Sep 2020 11:21 am |
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adam
Member Since: 20 Sep 2005
Location: Home and Happy
Posts: 6917
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I had x3 rear lock actuators fitted when I had my D4 - I think they are of cheese.
After the second one I got in the habit of checking all doors when locked. Now Golf GTI PP, 7 speed DSG.
Ex D3 and D4
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| 7th Sep 2020 3:42 pm |
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