Member Since: 05 Apr 2009
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 7
Huge thanks to everyone that has gone before me. Cleaned all the connectors under the seat with a toothbrush and WD40. Ditto those behind the kick plate and the big one to the door loom (once I realised those lugs needed rotating downward to release it - doh). That pesky air bag light is now firmly off after 9 months of annoying me - just in time for the MOT midweek. Brilliant forum. Thanks again.
3rd Aug 2014 2:09 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Happy to help ammagin
Thats what this forum is all about
Glad you got such a pesky problem sorted in the end.
3rd Aug 2014 7:40 pm
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 33
Pictures of connector?
dear BBS SPY,
is it possible for you to retrieve the pictures of the connector and repost? They seem to have disappeared.
My new-to-me truck is 6 weeks old and has developed the symptom of having a dodgy connector in the A frame.
Many thanks
Chris
8th Dec 2018 12:48 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Hiyas oldandslow1
I hosted these pictures on our own Blackbox web server back in June 2009 as per the post date, when I was a site sponsor, as well as a regular and hopefully appreciated contributor and source of help and information on this forum such as this post.
Since then we have long since changed our web site, server and contents and I have only recently and happily returned to being a regular participant and sponsor of this forum.
I therefore thank you for alerting me to the fact that a lot of the images we once hosted are no longer present and have not been included on our current web servers structure and I have just organised and re uploaded all origional images to a folder that means they should all now be available as per all origional links to them.
So you should now see them in my origional post which hopefully helps you understand better about popping the 2 ears out of the holes so you can rotate the ltching mechanism.
Once apart, If you see no corrosion in the Connectors pins, I would suspect breakage of the copper wiring in the flexing part of the door loom.
ATB and good luck
Colin
8th Dec 2018 2:03 pm
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 33
Brilliant. You are a star
8th Dec 2018 3:42 pm
BBS SPY Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Just a guy trying to help.
Please in reciprocation can I ask you to post up and share your findings about your problem and solution, such that this may help others
8th Dec 2018 4:02 pm
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 33
Thanks to everyone, especially BBS.
My issue turned out to be a broken earth wire between the door connector and the an earth splice in the door loom. I connected a new cable in and all problems went.
3rd Sep 2019 6:36 pm
NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
Having unsuccessfully tried today to sort out an intermittent drivers door main speaker by getting at the loom plug, and looking at this post after putting the car back together, I thought I'd dig out the Haynes manual.
For door removal, the first step it says is to simply prise away the rubber boot from outside the pillar, withdraw the cabling and disconnect the plug.
So no need to struggle from inside the vehicle? There was so little room between the half open door and the pillar, this seems near to impossible. I was reluctant to remove the rubber loom as it's the wrong side of the rubber door seals, so is a likely place for water ingress.
Anyone else done this and can advise what's do-able please?
8th Sep 2020 8:27 pm
acirema
Member Since: 27 Sep 2015
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 31
BBS SPY wrote:
Here you go guys,
Used my special BBS SPY camera for ya
The locking latch segment with the target symbol on it, that is on the car side part of the connector inside the pillar is currently pictured in the connector apart / open position, when engaged, the segment would rotate around point x in the direction of the arrow, driven by the teeth (marked t) however right under the target is a peg that is in a hole that you can see on the second picture, when closed that peg drops in the square hole in line with the point of rotation
so you have to lever the segment flap out sideways and away from the connector body (it is quite thin and it feels wrong to do it) and rotate it the other direction to the arrow, (as there is one on both sides that are not inter connected) by moving them down about point x while allowing the connector to come towards you away from the other half. I find that the best thing to do is to lever them out till the peg is free of the square hole and slide in a business card, do that on both sides then the pull on the connector while aiding the segments in rotating. obviously to re insert you need to get something to keep the segments peg out of the round hole as you push the connector back.
hope it helps
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Hey,
do you know how the connector is fixed to the body? Just clips or is some sort of sliding involved? Mine won't stay all the way in on top, which causes the rubber not to seal properly.
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