Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
My understanding is that if you disconnect one end of the bus (pull the connector) you will see the other end, namely 120 ohms. With the connector pulled a check on the connector pins will prove the rest of the bus is ok
27th May 2020 11:58 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
Quote:
Funny enough , the breakout box just turned up this morning , am now researching to understand what some of the terminals mean
Tac
Wspe
Sdm
Ts
Tc
Vpw plus and neg
Sil
GS, my understanding of the OBDII connector is that pins 1,3,8,9,11,12,13 are all manufacturer specific so the markings on your new box may be for a specific brand of vehicle unless they have changed the specification of the OBDII
Pins 2 & 10 relate to the J1850 bus which is for coaches and heavy vehicles
27th May 2020 12:07 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Globetrotter448 wrote:
My understanding is that if you disconnect one end of the bus (pull the connector) you will see the other end, namely 120 ohms. With the connector pulled a check on the connector pins will prove the rest of the bus is ok
Hi
Indeed that’s what I’m also thinking as it does make sense
Also and know it would take time, battery disconnected and then doing a continuity test from box to box , via the same wire going box to box
As there was a low VDC on pin 14 on low side of the high speed canbus I would assume it would be a bab found as I know u also mentioned it earlier
That why I thought using a jump lead from battery neg to engine block , also testing the ground before hand with multimeter
Spent around 4-5 hours the other night studying some of the wiring diagrams so have plenty of other tests, lol
27th May 2020 12:50 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Globetrotter448 wrote:
Quote:
Funny enough , the breakout box just turned up this morning , am now researching to understand what some of the terminals mean
Tac
Wspe
Sdm
Ts
Tc
Vpw plus and neg
Sil
GS, my understanding of the OBDII connector is that pins 1,3,8,9,11,12,13 are all manufacturer specific so the markings on your new box may be for a specific brand of vehicle unless they have changed the specification of the OBDII
Pins 2 & 10 relate to the J1850 bus which is for coaches and heavy vehicles
Many thks
Gary
27th May 2020 12:51 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
Gary, your email is not working
28th May 2020 8:27 am
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
I will try and check the wires again for the abs, the owner has sent the clocks off to cluster repair uk for bench testing and repair. So if I unplug the abs and then check the wires as discussed should I get 120ohms?
31st May 2020 4:31 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
No, the other end of the bus is in the IC. If you disconnect the abs plug and then check the abs only you should see 120 ohms. Without either end plugged in, I am not totally sure what resistance you will get but it would be in relation to the length of cable. Should also check that you have volts and earth at the abs.
Why did they send the IC away?
31st May 2020 11:49 pm
Metsonline
Member Since: 21 May 2020
Location: France
Posts: 2
Hi,did you get any further with this subject ?
11th Jun 2020 12:43 pm
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
Clocks finally back and in. There was a fault but i still have the same issues. Losing the plot here. Where are the plugs In the front passenger wheel arch as I cant seem to find any?? Also is there a plug or loom over the nsr turret?
Regs,
Nick
13th Jun 2020 2:43 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
Its behind the wheel arch liner, on MY 07> its behind the nsf headlamp. There's lots written on the subject if you do a search. The rear block terminals are behind the nsr turret on the chassis rail.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
13th Jun 2020 4:12 pm
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
Solved! I decided to start untaping the rear loom from the plugs behind the plastic fold down box and 10" back in the loom was a corroded yellow/black canbus wire. A cut, strip and crude twist together for testing purposes and it starts. Happy 8) not a mile away from rangehelper post. Thanks alot for that.
13th Jun 2020 6:56 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
Well done. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
13th Jun 2020 7:03 pm
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
Battery light is now on lol, battery voltage 11.7v engine off. Goes to 13.1v engine running.
13th Jun 2020 8:51 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
Well done on the can buss, any pictures. Battery and charging look a bit 'suss' as a good battery will show 12+ volts and with engine running 14+ volts so you may need to check both battery and alternator.
14th Jun 2020 12:44 am
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
I meant 12.5v for battery and 13 ish engine running. But light on. Should I just go for alternator?
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