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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2346
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Yes I thought I might have to do a few ‘test and feel’ trials in a vice. Just wondered if anyone had actually got a torque wrench in there. Good point about cutting the belt first, to relieve any adverse loading on the already fragile bolt. Thanks all D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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10th Jul 2022 11:41 am |
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DIY Pete
Member Since: 08 May 2022
Location: Wirral
Posts: 36
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[That can depend greatly on the size of your hands and forearms, luckily mine are like a ladies hairdresser's Laughing
Mine was done in a few hours, not the worst job I've tackled. Easier than removing the starter e.g. A tip along the way, when you've got the cover off, take it all the way out! I thought I could get the belt off with it still in place back there, but in the end had to cut the belt (and top up the swear jar a few times).
Best of luck ]
Take it that was on a D3 and not timed, I have the tool to lock the camshaft, any extra advice on the D4?
Also absolutely agree with the starter and I think as the camshafts get locked the flywheel is overkill!!
Cheers Pete[/quote]
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10th Jul 2022 3:45 pm |
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Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
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That was on a DE, yes. Glad I didn't have to fiddle round with the timing on a D4! Small hands, but even smaller amount of patience
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10th Jul 2022 5:00 pm |
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DIY Pete
Member Since: 08 May 2022
Location: Wirral
Posts: 36
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Ok, thanks, I'll double the the time it took you and hopefully it's only double
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10th Jul 2022 6:30 pm |
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