bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
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My thoughts exactley or possibily a 555 timer set up, which ive not used for years so my brain has not worked out the layout yet if it would work lol.
Pete
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13th Feb 2010 5:36 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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If the electrical circuit diagram is anything to go by, the shift up and down switches just provide an earth path to the ecu so should not have any inbuilt circuitry to ignore switch bounce, this being done by the ecu. Therefore additional switches should not need any either. Even inadvertant driver-initiated multiple change requests would probably be ignored by the ecu due to it requiring a minimum time interval between changes. Maybe just using mosfets instead of the relays for long term reliability is all that's needed, if that.
I'm really looking forward to installing some little switches to mine. The vehicle accelerates quite quickly with a bit of throttle and changing-up at around 2000 rpm.
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13th Feb 2010 11:02 pm |
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bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
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Hi
yes all that's needed is a simple "pull-down" the fiddley part is the time @ low so as not to flag a low time warning In the ECU and get a fault about time @ low exceded and loose command shift untill the next key cycle.
Also it really need a security feature to only accept the first paddle press and to not accept any more untill the first has been let go.
I worry about short to GND though as ive had them go short in the past , may have been bad luck but I've had it happen.
I may use the relays to control a 555 or decade counter set up where a short to gnd should be less of a risk.
Tbh though as you know there are many ways to skin a cat so to speak, and it's finding one that efficent to use keeping it simple and reliable.
Pete
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13th Feb 2010 11:21 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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I see that Hall effect transistor switches are used so I'll probably just use Darlington transistors in place of the relays but need to check the coil operating voltage used first.
Does using the up and down switches leave the box in auto mode but just go up / down a gear earlier as requested, or will it be necessary to move the lever to the sport posn then back? Not that its a problem, as I almost always let the box change down when it really has to and only change up early.
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18th Feb 2010 8:54 am |
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bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
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The gear stuck cam stay in D and it mover up and down gear to D2 D3 etc etc. After a few seconds on not commanding the paddles the box reverts back to just D and carrys on as if the paddle command were not there again.
Just as it would on the RRS.
Pete
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18th Feb 2010 9:12 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Thanks Pete. That sounds great.
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18th Feb 2010 12:15 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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My installation has been dormant for some time with my raised ride height project having taken priority. I've just got around to ordering some unipolar Hall effect current-sinking ICs c/w regulated power supply (SS443A) to stick to the tops of 2 relays to be operated by the magnetic effect of the coil, as long as the magnetic field is strong enough. The polariy of the relay's magnetic field appears to be correct for the Hall effect switches. The switches and the remote receiver can be powered from the available ign aux supply at the gearshift. If it all works, I'll probably not mount switches and the remote in the wheel, not at first anyway, just somewhere convenient. I tire of sport mode being selected with the accompanying dropping a gear before acting on my upshift requests, as well as forgetting to upshift all the way or returning to auto mode. Being able to just bump the current gear seems just what I need, rather than full manual mode.
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30th Mar 2010 12:01 pm |
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bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
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Sounds an interesting and plausable project, please keep us/me updated on your findings im interesting in changing what ive used for the better.
If you do end up going full propper paddles let me know i have a couple of RRS 2010 steering wheels available with paddles and also heated if it took your fancy for a decent price.
Pete
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4th Apr 2010 9:05 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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G'day Pete,
From what you've posted already, if the logic to prevent excessive switch closed time and minimum time between change requests is in the lever electronics rather than the gbox ecu then my idea may have problems, but I'll certainly post my results.
I'd much prefer the real paddles but doubt I could justify the cost from what I've seen. The heated wheel is no bonus in my part of the world.
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5th Apr 2010 2:04 am |
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tjp74
Member Since: 10 Feb 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 59
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So there is no way to mount the paddles on D4 steering wheel? Mine is heated and I cant justfy spending that kind of money just to get the paddle... TJ
2010 LR4 HSE Lux Plus White/Ebony <=Sold 2012
2000 Discovery II SE7 <=Sold 2011
2010 Prius w/Solar Roof <=Sold 2011
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6th Apr 2010 5:01 am |
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tjp74
Member Since: 10 Feb 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 59
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revisiting an old subject. So what was the conclusion of this project? We have seen how to wire transmitter inside the steering wheel but no conclusion on how to do it on the receiver side. I see we talked about "hall effect" and "555 timer" and stuff but no finalized instruction. I am seriously thinking about this but need confirmation that it can be done this way. TJ
2010 LR4 HSE Lux Plus White/Ebony <=Sold 2012
2000 Discovery II SE7 <=Sold 2011
2010 Prius w/Solar Roof <=Sold 2011
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24th Jan 2011 10:42 pm |
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bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
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I didnt use a 555 in the end, i just wired the receiver to the gearbox ecu shift wires and its done.
pete
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24th Jan 2011 10:46 pm |
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tjp74
Member Since: 10 Feb 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 59
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Perfect. So is finding gearshift ECU wire easy? where is it located? Any help will be greatly appreciated. TJ
2010 LR4 HSE Lux Plus White/Ebony <=Sold 2012
2000 Discovery II SE7 <=Sold 2011
2010 Prius w/Solar Roof <=Sold 2011
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24th Jan 2011 10:54 pm |
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bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
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Hi
When you are at that stage ofyour install give me some pictures of the connector in the 2nd battery compartement and ill locate them for you
Pete
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24th Jan 2011 11:29 pm |
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tjp74
Member Since: 10 Feb 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 59
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Perfect. Thank you.
btw, I will soon be left with a nice Disco 4 heated steering wheel complete with switches (stereo, cruise control, bluetooth etc) on both sides, premium leather etcl for sale. Could be a good upgrade for lower spec Disco4s out there. I will post official 'for sale' posting once it's available hopefully within few weeks. TJ
2010 LR4 HSE Lux Plus White/Ebony <=Sold 2012
2000 Discovery II SE7 <=Sold 2011
2010 Prius w/Solar Roof <=Sold 2011
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25th Jan 2011 1:24 am |
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