Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Mityvac make some seriously good vac pumps, Ive had mine for well over 10yrs possibly longer.
I think they make them for Snap On tools as well.
3rd Jan 2017 5:30 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
As always, thanks for the responses so far. I'm hoping once complete, this post can inspire other amateurs. I always build these jobs up in my head as beind beyond my capability. So far I've managed to do a fair bit myself (facelifting, internal wiring, spot lights, interior lights) so I intend to save some money and service more often.
Just to reiterate, as the photo in the first post, I've already got the vacuum pump.
I'll buy a 32mm socket for my square drive socket set.
Any other tools required?
3rd Jan 2017 7:18 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I use a pliers-wrench rather than a socket. Kinder to the plastic and unlike the socket, something you can use for other tasks.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 12 Oct 2016
Location: Manchester
Posts: 12
Engine oil
Which pump do people recommend for extracting engine oil from a 2016 d4.
6th Jan 2017 3:11 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Cohiba,
You're servicing a 2016 yourself?
Where abouts in Manchester are you? I'm in Swinton. Have the one in the original post.
Dan
6th Jan 2017 3:16 pm
Cohiba
Member Since: 12 Oct 2016
Location: Manchester
Posts: 12
Hi Dan, just thinking if it's worth putting new oil in now it's done 3600 miles or just leave it till the first service is due which would be 15000 miles.
6th Jan 2017 3:31 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Ah, mid period oil changes. I'm also considering this, I hammer the miles down though so time wise they'll be pretty close together. One of the reasons I bought the vacuum pump, as saves me removing underbody protection.
I'll try it out this weekend, you're welcome to come and borrow it, I won't need it for a while after that.... Until another member of my family sees £ signs when they realise I can service for them!
6th Jan 2017 6:51 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Well, the kit arrived from advanced factors, next day delivery top work.
Bought all the gear, big initial outlay but I've got it now.
Hoping the forecast stays dry tomorrow
At £2.48 I expected the funnel to be small! I only wanted it because I keep getting washer fluid everywhere when pouring from a full container
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
So all work complete, though not without minor hiccups. Most of the info is available for D3 so I thought I'd do a little D4 write up for other amateurs.
Axle stands
Engine Undertray
Firstly, I couldn't get the engine undertray bolts off. They busted my socket.
So after messing about for a while, my mate got home and lent me a big bar, decent quality socket and some WD40. A quick spray and left for 10 mins, they all came off nicely in the end.
Cabin Air Filter
Concurrently I changed the cabin filter which is really easy to do.
Just drop the glove box by pushing the supports inwards.
Then open the left hand clip, it hinges out.
Then pull the filter down and out. Replace with new, push upwards slightly. Refit door, raise glovebox. Done
Air Filter
Next it was the Engine air filter.
Undo the 7 screws around the airbox, lift it up. Pull the old filter out, Hoover the leaves on the bottom of the tray, new filter in, check seating, lid down and screw up.
Misc
I wanted to do a proper job so I bought a tub of grease. Greased the bonnet catches and all the door catches inc tailgate. Looks a bit messy but its hard to get your finger in. When it closed, it pushed it into the mechanism.
Also fitted some new wipers. Top quality feel, not tried them yet. Bosch aero twin.
Fuel Filter
Fuel filter is under the gearbox undertray, 5x 10mm bolts hold this plastic tray on. Up behind that, under the drivers seat is this little heat shield. the shield is vertical facing the font of the car. (I couldn't find it for ages as was following instructions for D3.)
Behind this, (3x 10mm bolts) you'll find the fuel filter. There's a single wire connector, undo the clip, grip the canister, turn it to the left (anticlockwise, the screw is on the top). About a 1/4 turn and it should be able to drop out of the housing, you may need to push the housing up. Don't tip it up, it's full of fuel.
Transfer the little gubbins from the bottom of it, they just screw off, it's a drain pipe and the electrical connector. There's a large black and small brown O ring. You should get new ones in the new filter box. swap these over, align the 'Drain' with the marker, refit in position it dropped down in, raise into bracket and turn to the right. It should turn the same 1/4 turn and feel a subtle stop at the end. Can be hard to turn with fuel all over your hands. Refit head shield.
At this point I must thank Joe from JAS LR. I'm not associated with him, but I do pester him when I have a problem and he always helps.
No photos of this part, at this point it was dark, I was in the prone position under the car using a headtorch. Ignition on for 30 seconds was enough to pump fuel through the filter, I didn't need to bleed any air, when I pressed the valve (engine bay, just rear of the engine oil filter housing, looks like a bicycle tyre valve) fuel was there.
Engine Oil
The Oil change was done as a background activity. My newly bought vacuum pump didn't have a pipe that would fit down the extraction tube, instead it's designed to seal around the top of it. I'll find some sort of short rubber tube to connect the two.
Instead I removed the sump plug (which I was planning to do anyway, just wanted to practice vacuum for my mid-term oil changes), The oil comes out pretty fast, I was holding the pan right under but it still came out quick enough to hit the chassis bar that faces the hole.
Make sure you remove the oil filter whilst the plug is still removed or before you start vacuuming, lots of oil dropped from the filter housing once I opened it up. Remove the filter housing, the filter sits inside, it feels like its being held be some clips, the clips you see on the inside are holding the inner plastic cylinder.
The instructions say that you just lift out the filter but it's hard to get hold of and feels 'clicked' in. I used a screwdriver to stab through the filter and pull it out. New filter in, refit housing.
New sump plug in, measure how much Oil comes out, should be 5-5.9litres. I measured 5 exactly, but my oil was halfway between min/max (about 500ml worth below max) and I spilled the rest
Refilled with 5.9litres, started engine, let it heat up, turned off, waited the annoying 10 mins for electronic dipstick, oil level OK. Done.
End
I haven't even seen most of these parts before they were delivered yesterday, I am a complete amateur. Don't be put off, it's pretty easy. Thanks to everyone that advised me beforehand!
Whilst I'm here, I was lay under the gearbox with the engine running, the warmer it got, the more this drip came. I'm pretty confident it's water, I smelled and tasted it. A single drip coming down on each side of the gearbox at the exact same level along it. Seemed to be coming from above it. Not really concerned, just interested. It's been drizzling all day.
Great work there. I have tubing which will allow you to join the vacuum extractor hose to the tube. For doing such a good write up, I will send you some if you want. Pm me an address. I found that I only needed a short length to allow the extractor to sit on the ground.
Could the drip be sunroof drain tubes or aircon tubes?
7th Jan 2017 8:16 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Thanks swansty. Possibly some sort of drain yeah. Tube would be great thanks, I think around 10cm would be enough. I'll PM you now
7th Jan 2017 8:37 pm
Kandy
Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 3
swansty wrote:
Great work there. I have tubing which will allow you to join the vacuum extractor hose to the tube. For doing such a good write up, I will send you some if you want. Pm me an address. I found that I only needed a short length to allow the extractor to sit on the ground.
Could the drip be sunroof drain tubes or aircon tubes?
Hi swansty, I have a 2016 SDV6 3.0, Very much a novice with this vehicle, Ive managed to keep my Td5 as well. I also wish to do mid service engine oil change and thought that it would be simple, ha. My recently purchased Pela vacuum extractor hose/tube does not fit down the extraction tube , damn. So , having just joined this forum, I appreciate the extra info re joining the extractor hose to the tube. What is it exactly that you use please Thank youLive your life NOW , not tomorrow.
14th Jan 2017 5:14 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Click image to enlarge
As a quick tip, when filling the oil as above remove the cap from the oil vacuum pipe. It helps the oil go in and allows the vacuum pipe to fill from the bottom.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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as well. I also wish to do mid service engine oil change and thought that it would be simple, ha. My recently purchased Pela vacuum extractor hose/tube does not fit down the extraction tube , damn. So , having just joined this forum, I appreciate the extra info re joining the extractor hose to the tube. What is it exactly that you use please 
Thank you
