Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10358
I know you don't want liquid pooling.
but they do seam to need a bit of something to make them start
29th Nov 2019 3:40 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4617
If I recall correctly EU4 starts with chassis 7A000001 and upwards. EU2/3 is up to 6A999999, but my memory is a bit like DSL's techie powers yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
29th Nov 2019 5:47 pm
Dondo65
Member Since: 09 Oct 2019
Location: Levin
Posts: 15
Hi all,
Thanks for all the help so far, Ive tracked the donor RRS Vin and NZ new model 7A 103... with EU3 emissions stated on the report. My D3 then is actually 8A458... (its registered here as an 07) it is EU4. We changed the motor with the body on and had to use the original injectors (EU4) as the replacement had none. We didn't use any other original parts from the original motor, I'm thinking we should remove the body and switch the necessary bits over. Does anyone know exactly what parts we should be using?
30th Dec 2019 6:23 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4617
The hpfp connections are different between EU3 & EU4 so if you haven't had to alter them you should be working with the correct EU4 setup. What codes are you getting from diagnostics, and what diagnostic tool are you using?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
30th Dec 2019 2:35 pm
Dondo65
Member Since: 09 Oct 2019
Location: Levin
Posts: 15
Hi PROFSR G
We had a local auto electrician use a Fcar diagnostic tool that is fully up to date.
Trying to find some good b gger with a Nanocom local to me but they're a bit thin on the ground down here!
He was able to reset the fault codes, none reappeared when the engine was cranked and we deduced a lack of fuel. It has been close to starting but no blue smoke from exhaust.
We have had some Diesel at the injectors but it didn't seem like a lot of pressure.
We broke the Schrader Valve on the LP fuel pipe and are waiting for one from the UK.
I'm not sure just how this affects the pipework connections on the HPFP and the compatibility of the fitting as we used some rubber pipe to make it work and I'm not actually working on the vehicle myself.
I'm going to check out some of the tips on here to see how much fuel we are getting from the tank and see if we can get some through the HPFP at pressure.
I read Fast1cars post that you were so helpful with on his fuel issues and will try some of the checks as you suggested.
Cheers and Happy New Year to all.
Steve
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31st Dec 2019 12:53 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4617
Hi Steve,
Diagnostic codes might help us provide you with more concise and practical advice, but the person reading the DTC's needs to record them before deleting
The LP fuel line is obviously a small setback, but satisfy yourself too that the fuel filter is OK and of good quality. If you want to check the LPFP output you should expect to see a flow of about 1.8 ltrs/min at the schrader valve (minimum!) but a healthy pump will be closer to 2.6 ltrs/min perhaps a bit more depending on ambient temperatures. (fully charged battery)
You'd be better to do away with temporary rubber pipe fixes as they are likely to create more issues than they solve. So once you have the LP sorted and bled and a fully charged battery, you should be able to push for a long start up before stopping if that is what it takes. (15-20s)
Be careful of the HP side as this has the potential to cause very serious injury to whoever is working on it if they get in the way of a HP pressure leak. Though no doubt you are already aware of this.
Happy new year to you too as you will see it before I will yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
31st Dec 2019 3:21 am
Dondo65
Member Since: 09 Oct 2019
Location: Levin
Posts: 15
Hi All
We had a pure fluke! After checking fuel flow and bleeding the fuel lines. I pulled the injector connection off number 4 (cylinder) to test for a pulse when the engine was cranked.
The damn thing nearly started and we had the first blue smoke from the exhaust A couple of more tries and it was running, really rough and smokey but a huge step in the right direction. We plugged the injector back in and it killed the motor instantly.
We then swapped the injector with number 5 (cylinder) and had the same result. A quick resistance check found a dead short across the terminals where all the others read 20 or so somethings, (not me on the complicated stuff).
I've been looking for info on EU3 and UE4 and availability of injectors in my region and there are a few Peugeot and Citroen motors available that I was hoping may be an economical way around my problems
I've found this on a Pug website:
Just an update on this so everyone can use this information. The Injectors from the Jaguar / Citroen and Peugeot are all interchangeable. The Land Rover and Range Rover, although identical in every shape and form from the same engine, for some reason have a different electrical draw.
Something like 140 for the Land / Range Rover and 152 for the others we can use.
This is the information I was given - I would always check yourself, but handy I guess.
Shame, as they are identical in every way except the voltage.
Can anyone back this up or hopefully dispute it?
Also I've read a few older threads about reconditioning and would like to know if this would be a good option.
It's been a bit frustrating trying to get things done down here as the whole place stops for at least a fortnight over the xmas new year period.
Thanks in advance and Happy new year to all.
Steve
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(not me on the complicated stuff).
