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classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
  
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Morning!
I had one of those irritating days yesterday. After doing the brake booster I wanted to check the callipers and pads, I've not touched them since I replaced them a couple of years ago. Front pad wear is pretty good quite even but a couple of the pistons were a little stiff so I wound them in a bit and then put them back on and pumped the pedal a couple of times.
While I was at it, I thought I should check the back, the off side rear wheel was noticeably cleaner than the others and I wondered why there wasn't as much brake dust. I discovered one of the pads was a bit stuck, in fact trying to take the pads out, one of them disintegrated. I was not impressed so 3:00pm on a Sunday afternoon where are you going to get rear pads for a Disco 3? I apologise now, I had to turn to Eurocarparts, only option really. They had stock but I only had an hour to order and then drive to pick them up - good job I have another car, it was tight time wise but got there OK, new pads installed but it is never that simple is it. The pad wear sensor fell to bits trying to pull it off the pad, so I needed a new one of those too but Eurocarparts don't stock those, so I went on-line again and ordered one from a relatively local Land Rover specialist, same place I ordered a brake light switch from - they had stock so I'll pick up those bits ASAP and get the blue bus back on the road.
Obtained a new brake light switch this morning, 2 minutes to fit and all is good, no warnings, no bongs of doom and the brakes work which is always a bonus. Also picked up a rear pad wear sensor, which I will fit later today. but that is hardly a challenge.
Thanks to Landranger Deeside 4x4, parts in stock and good customer service too  Exactly what you need when you're in a rush for parts.
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 8th Jul 2024 9:05 am |
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classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
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OK, so a quick easy lunchtime job, fit new brake pad wear sensor on the rear offside. Takes longer to lift the car and remove the wheel than to actually unplug and replace the broken bit. Anyway, all done and road tested. No faults, no pulling on the brakes and no warning lights. All is good in my Land Rover world again.
So glad I replaced the brake booster, the stopping power is just so very much better. The brake pedal is now a bit like an on/off switch. If you haven't checked your brake booster (servo) I recommend you do; also, I used a Range Rover Sport brake booster - apparently it is a little bigger although I didn't see any difference, but braking power is fantastic and it is a bit worrying I didn't think there was anything particularly wrong with the way it stopped before and it passed MOT test so it shows although the brakes were down on power you might not notice.
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| 8th Jul 2024 11:44 am |
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classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
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After doing the brake booster it appeared the split charge wasn't working. I have a T-Max split charger fitted and I noticed the green "linked" LED was flashing, pushing the link button turned it solid green but I couldn't hear the relay/solenoid clicking in and out.
After a bit of head scratching I wondered if the relay had died - it happens.
Anyway, I decided I should investigate, but having assumed (incorrectly, I might add), I ordered a replacement relay. I can confirm the problem was not the relay, I know this because I took it off, hooked it up to a spare battery and it was switching fine so I was a bit confuzzled!
So I prodded and poked about and couldn't see anything untoward. I broke out the DVM and checked continuity here and there and wasn't sure there was a problem. I started to lean toward the actual controller being at fault but I still wasn't convinced.
I disconnected the main battery cables to the solenoid to make sure it was all safe and no risk of a major short to ground then I connected the battery sense wire which also powers the control unit. Sure enough no switching of the solenoid but i know it works.....mmmmmm?
I had a quick look to see if there was any information about the flashing green "linked" LED - I didn't see anything. First I checked the 2.5amp fuse - there was continuity, so it wasn't the fuse. I noticed pulling the fuse didn't affect the flashing LED so perhaps this is a clue, also, this line (green wire) controls the relay. I checked for continuity across the fuse to the ring terminal - nothing. I took the fuse holder off and found where I had replaced the brake booster, I must have pulled the wire slightly and this had broken the wire so there was no connection.
I found some green wire, cut a new piece and attached a new ring connector, checked for continuity across the fuse holder and from the "in" side of the fuse to the ring connector, all looked good. Hooked it up and pressed the link button and normal service was resumed. So I put the aux battery in place
reattached all the cables after tidying some of it up a bit then put the covers back on. All is well, split charge working correctly again.
So to recap, flashing green "linked" LED on the T-Max controller appears to mean the relay isn't working so check 2.5 amp fuse, check continuity across the fuse holder to the terminal and check the relay itself is actually switching. Lastly, don't jump to conclusions until you have finished testing and investigating.
Cheers!
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| 11th Jul 2024 9:17 am |
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Bicycle repairman
Member Since: 18 Sep 2019
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 188
  
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Its nice the story continues, shame about the lacquer but I can see a post of you doing it yourself, fortunately mines an auto and the mrs won't drive it.
Excellent work. D4 GS let the retro fit begin
Heated steering wheel
Aftermarket TPMS
Double Din head unit satnav and TV
Reverse Camera
Cubby fridge
Door panel upgrade
Mood lighting
Digital Dash personalised
Back lit sun visors
4.5 Facelift front, rear and memory mirrors
Stainless bumper tread plate
6 pot Brembo conversion
HSE heated memory seats
Retro fit auto lights and wipers
LR 663 Defender alloys
275 45 20 GG AT3s
quarter of a D3
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| 16th Aug 2024 11:09 pm |
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