Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
D3 Auto lost drive
I have just bought a damaged TDV6 (driver's door crushed). Car appears to have been previously well maintained but there is a transmission problem.
Delivery driver said it started and drove ok to move for loading. He left it running for several minutes and then found no drive in gears. Start from cold again today no drive at all. No oil leaks. I have checked gearbox linkage, that is fine.
I will scan codes later today, and update here. Any suggestions or thoughts appreciated.Chris
20th May 2020 10:37 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Hi
Indeed best to get the codes read and then, I would check the gearbox oil level
After writing the codes down, clear them , then see what if any codes come back , should also tell u if any airbags or seat tensioner have fired with the drivers door getting an impact
This company has the details and sells all of the oils that u need
Ps, if I may add, plse make sure ur belts and oil pump have been done
20th May 2020 11:32 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
reverse doesn't work either ?
Yeah check gearbox oil level. (usually this is done with the engine running)
Without engine running, it is meant to pour out
20th May 2020 12:49 pm
luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
Hi
I followed this guide (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/filos-autobox-oil-change-55010.html), and did a full oil change/pan/oil filter.
Perhaps just go ahead a flush just the oil, and see what happens
Best of luck
LucioI'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
20th May 2020 4:28 pm
motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
I think you guys are on the right track for remedy.
Current codes
P0729 Gear 6 incorrect ratio
P0730 Incorrect gear ratio
P0731 Gear 1 incorrect ratio
P0732 Gear 2 incorrect ratio
P0735 Gear 5 incorrect ratio
P0736 Reverse incorrect ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch solenoid - circuit performance or stuck off
U0100 Lost communication
I noticed a clicking noise in drive positions. Not loud, and varies with engine speed.
Next step, clear the codes, run and retest. Also sample ATF and check level.Chris
20th May 2020 8:53 pm
motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
After standing overnight, and battery fully charged, drive forward and reverse do work until oil warms up.
Cleared codes, and two returned,
P0730 Incorrect gear ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch solenoid - circuit performance or stuck off
Checked fluid level hot and running. No shortage of oil, but it is black and smelly so probably worth trying new oil and filter.Chris
21st May 2020 2:38 pm
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2862
Hate to say it but it is beginning to sound like a possible torque convertor/stator bush issue Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
21st May 2020 4:06 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
Being a drivers door damage, does it think door is open, has the sill been damaged as many wires run along there. May have dislodged a connector etc.
22nd May 2020 4:47 am
Mr Kington
Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Scottish Borders
Posts: 1549
You checked the gear lever pivot is in the right place ? Not been dislodgedJames favourite hobby is writing in the third person.
22nd May 2020 9:07 am
motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
Update - not looking good
Thanks for suggestions.
Driver's door is beyond repair, but no damage to sill or wiring. Cannot clear "drivers door open" until I replace the door, next job.
I tried oil flush with direct connection to the cooler. Initially no pressure/flow from the gearbox. I applied low pressure on return pipe with an electric pump and new oil. This seemed to prime the system and several litres of old oil came out - I added similar quantity of new oil. I then topped up to correct level with engine running and at normal temperature.
When the engine is started, drive now works for a limited time, forward (first gear only) and reverse, then drive is lost. Switch off and restart, drive usually works again.
Seal on the gearbox electrical connector is leaking, but the contacts are dry. Gear change linkage appears to be working properly.
"If at first you do not succeed - redefine success"
The car has covered 185k miles. Do I need another gearbox or is their still hope for this one without a major rebuild?Chris
29th May 2020 3:17 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
Wonder if the pumps not working when hot
You could test by getting it really hot and losing drive.
And pulling the cooler hose off gingerly. (With gloves) and if oil pumps out it’s working
29th May 2020 3:22 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
What colour was the oil that came out? how did you check the level of oil? If it works for a while then stops, could be not enough oil or maybe the TC or a valve in the valve body. You can get kits.
30th May 2020 12:33 am
motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
I have returned to this job.
Further investigation shows no persistent codes, so it should drive. I believe there is adequate quantity of good ATF, but almost no pressure or circulation.
Removed the pump which seems fine. No obvious sign of damage or significant wear on gearbox internals.
I ran it with new internal seals but no improvement.
I have two thoughts as a next move. Could this be resolved by fitting a different valve block in the gearbox, or is a different gearbox and swap the original mechatronic unit, the only practical solution?
I know the sure answer is to have gearbox rebuilt, but that is simply not financially viable, and the experience is useful/interesting.Chris
24th Nov 2020 6:37 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
How did you change the pump ? Seals
Did u remove gearbox?
24th Nov 2020 7:33 pm
motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
I lifted body off to replace a rear arm and rear brake pipes, removed gearbox put new seals in and refitted to car. Left on lift with minimal reassembly to test, then removed gearbox again to take out oil pump.
I was hoping for a clear problem like broken pump, but the fault lies elsewhere. I think the pump is working properly, but low flow/pressure with cold oil drops to nothing as it warms up. This makes the car undriveable, so it seems likely that their was a sudden failure rather gradual loss of drive.Chris
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