Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
CSOV sticking - repair or replace?
My compressor (Turbo) shut off valve is intermittently sticking which is apparently a known issue on my MY10 D4
Is it worth while fitting the repair kit which is available or is this likely to be a short time fix and I should just bite the bullet and change the whole valve assembly assuming they are not silly money
Any thoughts
1st Sep 2017 5:19 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
Thanks both
2nd Sep 2017 7:54 am
gvw
Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
After gaining confidence from Flack & Disco_Mikey I decided to give it a go.
The repair kit LR033284 was order from Dan at Duckworths for just under £70 and comprises a new actuator, linkage and a few screws.
The TSB suggests the whole valve assembly has to be removed from the car in order to replace the actuator but I thought I would try and replace it with the valve in situ if possible.
I already had the offside front wheel off as I had been changing brake discs and pads.
Looking under the wheel arch towards the front you can see an access panel held on by 4x plastic rivet type fasteners shown -
You can use a screwdriver or similar to lever out the inner part of the rivets before the removing the outer part.
When this panel is removed you can see the CSOV and the actuator needed to be replaced -
To gain more access I removed the metal under protection panel held on by 4x bolts-
From underneath you can then carefully pull of the rubber pipe and remove the 2x actuator fixings (Torx T30)-
Taking a note of the position of the small linkage pivot thingy you can swing the actuator out of the way and gain access to the 10mm nut holding the actuator onto the existing lever. Undo the nut and remove the actuator -
Undo the small Torx fastener (T25) holding on the linkage pivot and replace with the new one, again taking note of the position of the lever and replacing the new one in the same position.
The new actuator then slides onto the linkage and can be secured into place with the new fixings.
The position of the actuator and linkage should match the old one before you started.
The rubber pipe can then be pushed back on.
Then refit both access panels and job done.
Although the part removed did not look corroded the car seems much smoother with the power delivery with the new actuator although this could be wishful thinking
One last thing to mention - I asked my local stealer for a cost to change this part.
They quoted £258 + VAT if they supplied the part or £198 +VAT labour charge if I supplied the part.
I double checked that this was for the same repair kit.
Now assuming I'm reading the TSB correctly it suggests the time to fit the kit is 0.4hrs
At £198+VAT for 0.4hrs or 24mins work that equates to an eye watering, rip off, hourly rate of £495+VAT
I didn't take too much note of the time that it took me to fit but I think I was at it about 1 hour including stopping to eat my tea.
For now, I appear to have resolved the issues on my MY10 by liberally spraying WD40 all over the actuators moving parts and leaving it soak overnight. Whereas, I repeatedly got the restricted performance message 5 times on a 6 mile journey every day for 3 days prior to the WD40 being applied it’s now been fine for over 5 days.
I know I’ve just doomed myself by stating this LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
6th Nov 2017 7:51 pm
gvw
Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
I initially gave it a good dose of lube but it happened once more.
As I was due to be going to Cornwall towing the tintent I decided it wasn't worth the risk for the cost of the repair kit so changed
See the post with all the pics above - specifically the first pic showing the new actuator and bits, it's the rod sticking out of the top you want to spray both ends to ensure it's well lubed and give it a little wiggle if you can too. Hardest part was removing the 4 plastic rivets things holding the plastic shielding in place LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
7th Nov 2017 5:06 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73086
Will have a look. Not sure I can be trusted to spray flamible stuff so close to the turbo. At least I think the turbo is there, somewhere.
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I know I’ve just doomed myself by stating this 
