Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4659
Lumberjackwhite wrote:
Just to add something in case it's relevant:
I've not been able to use the heated seats in the car for about 3 years now as it gets incredibly hot and literally burns my backside through the seat.
Could this be related in any way?
It could, as it would draw around 20amps or more, the seat heater can be disabled by removing fuses (7&8) and this should eliminate that for the moment. Then investigate the route of the battery positive cable just to be sure it's not shorting. Follow it to the BJB and from there down under the engine to the starter and the alternator. You're looking for any anomalies where the cable might have exposed copper and touching on the engine or body. This will mean raising the car safely and removing the engine tray to investigate this lead properly.
The lead may actually be OK, but given your posts I think it best to eliminate it. A quick indicator test would be to do a continuity test between the positive battery lead terminal (BATTERY REMOVED!) and the engine and then the body. If you get a ping from the meter it's dead shorting! If that's OK then the problem likely lies elsewhere such as within the alternator, but many other possibilities too.
If you're not comfortable tracing electrical faults perhaps it would be better to bite the bullet and let an Auto Electrician look at it. A mistake here can do very serious electrical damage to control modules.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th Jan 2024 10:59 pm
Lumberjackwhite
Member Since: 29 Jan 2012
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 506
Quick update, folks. Spoke to a number of Auto Electricians today who all thought the car would be on fire by now if it's pulling that much juice when turned on. So, given that it's a family car, it's gone in for inspection and fix. The garage that I took it to said to bring the battery first to test it. He used a digital meter, an analogue and also a 250amp heat tester and said the battery is 100%.
So there is something seriously wrong going on which he said would make it be easy to find; but not always so easy to fix.
We'll see what the outcome is!
Thanks again all.
8th Jan 2024 5:54 pm
Lumberjackwhite
Member Since: 29 Jan 2012
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 506
In conclusion:
Problem was with the alternator. It was pulling 125 amps via a dead short and the auto electrician can't believe the cable (and car) hadn't melted! He showed me the alternator and it stunk of burning. The metal label on the side had melted black.
They followed the cables up to the battery and there is no further damage.
All in all, I've received the best customer service from H. Bowers in Longton, Stoke-on-Trent.
- They tested my battery for free and spent half an hour with me discussing all the possibilities of the problem and what they need to look out for.
- They booked me in for Tuesday 16th Jan but said to drop it in early in case they have spare time this week.
- Dropped vehicle in on Weds 10th Jan, by Thurs 11th Jan they had diagnosed the issue.
- By 3:00PM on Friday 12th Jan they had replaced the alternator and ran all checks on the vehicle to ensure it's safe and everything is running as it should.
All in cost: £324
The little 'cough' the car had on start up has gone and permagrin has been fully re-instated.
Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread - you're all diamonds!
Special mention to Profsr G - I told them about the cable near the diff rubbing. Well, they checked that and it was indeed rubbing so they re-sheathed it and moved it out of the way. Top man
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12th Jan 2024 5:08 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4659
There are a lot of D3's out there with the battery positive cable resting on the diff. It's only a matter of time before the constant abrasion eats it's way into the copper with potentially dire consequences. It's also possible this process had already begun on yours, which may be partially, or even entirely the reason for the alternator being incinerated.
In any case it seems the alternator was sacrificed instead of the car!
Bullet dodged! Result yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
12th Jan 2024 5:28 pm
Lumberjackwhite
Member Since: 29 Jan 2012
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 506
Bob on, Professor and thank you again for pointing that cable out.
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