Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
clutch change issues - cross member bolts, driveshaft
Hi
I sank a few hours this evening into removing front cross member bolts for a clutch change. Two key issues (and the workshop manual doesn’t seem to make sense on this):
1. On the (UK) drivers side the fuel tank made removing the bolts a problem. I finally managed to crack and remove the nuts after angling the fuel tank down but how to remove the bolts? I have partially rounded one. I have blow torch with me so I can try heating the bolt from the non-fuel tank side
2. On the (UK) passengers side there is a rubber exhaust mount thing that gets on the way of the inner bolt whatever I do - any suggestions on how to remove this?
Regarding rear drive shaft I could remove all bolts on the rear driveshaft and had expected it to want to fall out but it doesn’t. Should I be whacking it (more) with a hammer? I have a new prop so I can see a shoulder cut inside the ends that needs to unseat in the old one to remove from car.
Front driveshaft also proving tricky because the front wheels want to spin round. Should I be doing this with the wheels on the floor? Would you advise against an impact driver?
All assistance appreciated - car is one. Ramp at a self service garage so I am back when it opens tomorrow morning.
Cheers,
Andy
3rd Jan 2019 10:17 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
1 I don’t recall removing the bolts being an issue. Just don’t drop nuts into tank area.
2 yeah remove exhaust rubber
3 use chisel on prop. They are difficult
3rd Jan 2019 10:26 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
1,I’ve had issue with these bolts being corroded In place I had to cut/snap them off with a breaker bar to remove the cross member then heat up and press the broken bolts out of the cross member Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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4th Jan 2019 1:27 am
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
Thanks guys.
I have managed to remove props and cross member.
Next mystery / miracle:
The workshop manual says
"14 . Loosen the turbocharger support bracket nut and reposition the turbocharger support bracket. "
I say
ROFL.
This looks impossible. Can just barely get to it, 14 years of heat and water corrosion. Thinks its a 12 mm but the 12mm ring spanner slips. Tried blow torch, magic candle, kroil, WD40. Not tried praying yet. If I were to somehow work and angle grinder in there I feel there is no way to drill and retap that hole.
Any suggestions!?
Much appreciated,
Andy
4th Jan 2019 4:43 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Hi Andy.
Mine was a 13mm spanner size nut on the turbo and 2x E10/E12 Torx bolts on the bell housing. Much easier with the down pipe out of the way.Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
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4th Jan 2019 4:58 pm
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
My old D3 must be so corroded the fixings have shrunk! Tried getting down pipe off and it is stuck fast and I am rounding the bolts. I have a Halfords advance socket set I thought would be par for the course. I have been swapping out for non multi spoke sockets in this garage where it makes sense.
I feel like this job is going to beat me. How would they handle it in a Land Rover Garage? Sorry sir, body off etc?
4th Jan 2019 5:26 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Would removing the front prop shaft help gain access to Turbo ?
4th Jan 2019 7:20 pm
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
Hi actually already did that. I may have created a massive problem later but I have cut off the nut/stud holding the turbo support bracket. Bracket now off. Hope to weld nut or other to the stud tomorrow, remove and insert another stud
4th Jan 2019 7:41 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Oh I know the stud your talking about now.
4th Jan 2019 7:47 pm
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
I completed the clutch change. Absolute of a job. Cross member bolts took hours to persuade out and 2 were in a very sorry state (my near side). Wiring plugs very fiddly. Crossover pipe brackets very fiddly. And don't forget to reinsert the front prop before installing the front cross member again..... Oh how I laughed at that gotcha!
I currently have a turbo supported by one bracket with no nut on it connecting to turbo after I cut the stud off. I had no access to a gas torch unfortunately which I feel would have saved this stud.
My plan is to clean up the end of the stud I have by rigging up something with a die tap set so I can get a bolt on this lower bracket to bind it to the turbo for now.
Options for improving the situation
Option 1: I'm wondering if I can buy something like this "Hex Head Sleeve Nut" and drill the hole bigger in the upper bracket and get some high temp loctite equivalent and reattach the upper bracket.
Option 2: Get a nut on the remaining stud for the lower bracket and cut off the overlapping piece on the top bracket. Then drill a hole further to the right and put a bolt through it.
Option 3: Go rogue and rig up some bracket of my own off a bell housing bolt to a hole in the lower bracket.
Has anyone ever seen a hex head sleeve bolt in the wild? i.e. not on alibaba? Where might I buy one?
Struggling to picture your scenario... any chance of some photos ?
Is the sleeve nut idea because you don't have any threads protruding through the bracket?.
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
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8th Jan 2019 7:35 am
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
Indeed, sorry and thanks for hanging in through my text!
So it the bolt on the downpipe side of the bracket connecting turbo to bell housing (All bolts on the bell hosing came off easily). I feel like I have 6 or 7 mm thread (with a horrible cut end of course) without the top bracket in place.
So to recap I have currently have a lower bracket still attached to bell housing and through a stud (but not bolted down) on the turbo side, and no upper bracket attached at all.
hmmm … 6mm of thread doesn't seem like enough to me.
Can you get some internally threaded tube on to it then weld it to the stud ?
I can see the problem that if you were to try and unscrew the rest of the stud and it snapped level with the top of the hole, you're in much worse position than you are now.
if internal threaded tube works, then drilled out bracket could be bolted down with a bolt into top of the tube and a few washers … but I don't know how much space you have.
perhaps your idea of a custom bracket is better … utilise the 6mm of thread you have for 1 fixing point but use other mounting points so the dodgy one is less critical.
8th Jan 2019 12:10 pm
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
I thought of another option which I prefer. Install the old bracket so the tip of the stud is flush. Then make cunning use of magnets, attach a nut and fill with weld... then go about my day! Removing the turbo on this car in an eventuality would’t become much more of a massive PITA than it would be now given state of bolts to down pipe. And I would find somewhere with a torch! To heat! I have no immediate reason to fear turbo failure (famous last words...)
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of a job. Cross member bolts took hours to persuade out and 2 were in a very sorry state (my near side). Wiring plugs very fiddly. Crossover pipe brackets very fiddly. And don't forget to reinsert the front prop before installing the front cross member again..... Oh how I laughed at that gotcha!
... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
