Member Since: 27 May 2011
Location: Spain & Oleee!!!
Posts: 609
Cleaning of the steering oil filter screen in the reservoir
This afternoon I turn this dirty boy:
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(note, much better resolution in my gallery)
Into this:
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I think that as my steering fluid was changed by me many times in +70.000 miles, the fluid must to be in good condition. My steering runs sweety before this and this task was acomplished only for taking care of the car and because i like to do things by myself (because I know they are right).
In dont hear many stories about failed steering pumps, nor noisy ones, even at high milleages, but this cleaning is good for the steering and i will do it next 70 or 80k miles to maintain it top ten.
it takes an hour first time to me, now i think that less than an hour is so possible, so tiny time to loose.
the entire process is here in photos:
as you imagine, the process is:
-locate the tools needed.
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-empty dry the reservoir,
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-unmount it from bracket
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no spills! no single one drip! as i suck of the oil from the horizontal position of the reservoid, letting oil drain to couls suck it out. a clean work 8)
-clean it with petrol. (take cake not pinch the screen, do not use something hard to clean, only the brush, it cleans well and easy)
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-dry it with a "borrowed" hair dryer (mild temp, not burning)
-mount in reverse and fill up.
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I dont know how other reservoirs are, many D3 and D4 gurus heres could speak about, but mine was fairly dirty, the mud and metellic chips i could get out from him dont seem to be so large or dangerous, they don't indicate something wrong and all was captured by the screen.
the fluid that comes out was filtered in a rag...this come out:
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from the petrol (big chips in the blue bucket, sorry no photo, just a bunch of tiny metallic and gummy like goo) this was floating in the liquid
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maybe a look for the high mileage or high years ones are worth a try.
owners decide. to me is peace of mind.
here you have a video that shows a reservoir change, not cleaning in a freelander with steering problems.
no need for changing in ours, as we could reach easily the reservoir screen for perfect cleaning.
29th Jul 2014 11:59 pm
CUCO
Member Since: 27 May 2011
Location: Spain & Oleee!!!
Posts: 609
This are pictures of a high mileage vehicle, with a clogged blocked screen:
And the wrong approach of punching the screen (bad way: debris will flow free around the system, scoring all valves guides, pump vanes, bearings, etc.)
30th Jul 2014 9:49 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
That's useful. I need to change my steering oil, so will clea this filter at the same time. Will have to wait Til septembernow though. B Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
30th Jul 2014 9:56 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Cuco, did you replace the fluid using the method described by Spiderbaby in this thread
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic80522.h...ring+fluid
Or did you do a drain and refill? If the latter, is there a bleeding procedure?
I have read somewhere that old and new fluid should not be mixed, but the flush through from the reservoir seems an easy option. Having looked into mine and had a sniff I now realise that this is a reservoir that holds fluid that then circulates, as opposed to simply sitting there waiting to be used! I am even more keen to give mine a freshen up and clean the filter that I did not appreciate was there.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
30th Jul 2014 10:13 am
CUCO
Member Since: 27 May 2011
Location: Spain & Oleee!!!
Posts: 609
I drain the reservoir and the hoses with the syringe to get all the fluid easily reacheable out of the system. then, I mount the reservoir all fill up with new fluid after cleaning the screen.
as my fluid was changed before, the fluid itself was in a good shape. much better now of course because i renew a big part of the total capacity this time.
in previous renewals, i empty the reservoir and refill only, do it many times with turning the steering wheels (engine on) and you are ok to renew a big part of the fluid if you want.
no need for bleeding, the pump itself will self prime and bleed itself. not whining noises, no aireated fluid, no bubbles, no nothing, just perfect.
and yes, as you said, the fluid is continuosly recirculating across the entire system, so changing the reservoir part will refresh the other part too.
For this time, it only needed one bottle.
30th Jul 2014 10:54 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Time to give Brad a call at Yeovil Land Rover. Thanks for advice2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
30th Jul 2014 11:53 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Inspired by CUCO thread, I changed the PAS fluid today.
These are the tools I used.
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Basically, I sucked the fluid out of the reservoir with the pump and into a bottle beside the reservoir. Once almost empty, I then stuffed rag beneath the reservoir and disconnected the two pipes underneath. Then, washed the inside of the reservoir in the bucket with petrol. After each wash, the petrol was filtered through the rag in a funnel into a measuring jug, then poured through again.
My filter at the bottom was black and soon started to come clean. To remove the last particles, I used a small brush and the last flush was done with petrol. A hairdryer was used as CUCO recommended to dry the inside.
Here is a view of the clean filter - it was black before I started.
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The fluid on the left was what came out of the first empty of the reservoir.
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I then refitted the reservoir and refilled to max with new fluid and put lid on. Started the engine and cycled the steering from left to right several times. Then sucked out the fluid, refilled etc. I did this process three times. I will now drive the car for a week and have enough fluid left for three more changes.
I know I could have drained down and got more fluid out, but was scared of getting an airlock. I also new I needed to wash the filter so was going to take the reservoir off any way. Even if I had drained, I would still have gone through the flush routine as I am sure the grime would have sat in the system.
At £36 for 2 litres of fluid from Brad at Yeovil LR it was not going to break the bank. Not bad cost for 141k miles of driving.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
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hair dryer (mild temp, not burning)
I now realise that this is a reservoir that holds fluid that then circulates, as opposed to simply sitting there waiting to be used! I am even more keen to give mine a freshen up and clean the filter that I did not appreciate was there.
