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simon_arch1
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 502
  
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I have done a search, and can't find entries on this - so apologies...
Have jsut hit 36000 km, and the "check brake pads" error and chime has started - driving us crazy - was in for a service anyway - so I guess they'll be replaced.
Questions:
- how many km is best/average/worst for pads to last?
- do I really have to replace the sensors as well?
- are people replacing with factory LR pads, or alternatives? In the past I've used Bendix and EBC on my D2...
Thanks and cheers,
Simon D3 - Buckingham Blue, SE, TDV6, 06 model; chipped; underbody armour; Mickey Thompson ATZ 275/65-18 AND MAXXIS Bighorn muddies; rear wheel carrier from 4x4intelligence.com; iPOD aux connection! GME 3200 UHF - aerial mounted on wheel carrier  ; LR roof rails/cross bars; Autosafe cargo barrier, Safari Snorkel; Traxide - aux battery; ARB bull bar with Tigerz11 winch; Lightforce 240 XGT driving lights (mitchell bros tow hitch to come)
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 9th Nov 2007 12:17 am |
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simon
Member Since: 11 Jan 2005
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 18296
  
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Answers...
On an auto they wear pretty quick - well she is heavy. My manual has had one new set at the 5K mile service. Still no new disks at 77.5K miles.
Yes you need to replace the sensor. Its just a wire and once broken to chime the alarm... needs to be replaced.
Many here have done the pad replacement themselves, apparently easy to do and far cheaper than dealer prices. New sensors are readily available.
More technical answers will I'm sure follow 
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| 9th Nov 2007 12:24 am |
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simon_arch1
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 502
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OUCH!!!!!!!!!!
$700 later - new front pads, disks and sensors, and new sensors and pads in the rear too! 
Yes - it is a heavy vehicle - will have to get SWMBO (her daily driver) to slow down and use less brakes...
 D3 - Buckingham Blue, SE, TDV6, 06 model; chipped; underbody armour; Mickey Thompson ATZ 275/65-18 AND MAXXIS Bighorn muddies; rear wheel carrier from 4x4intelligence.com; iPOD aux connection! GME 3200 UHF - aerial mounted on wheel carrier ; LR roof rails/cross bars; Autosafe cargo barrier, Safari Snorkel; Traxide - aux battery; ARB bull bar with Tigerz11 winch; Lightforce 240 XGT driving lights (mitchell bros tow hitch to come)
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| 9th Nov 2007 3:27 am |
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Jamo
Member Since: 18 Jan 2006
Location: Esperance, Western Australia
Posts: 1170
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New Disks?!?
I had mine machined once and the pads have been replaced twice.
Are they meant to replace the disks or was machining good enough?. After 103000km she still stops OK. Have a nice day!
2010 Cayenne Diesel with PASM & Off Road Pkg
2005 HSE D3 (Sold)
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| 9th Nov 2007 3:39 am |
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PCH
Member Since: 12 Jan 2005
Location: Anywhere but work
Posts: 812
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Simon,
I'm surprised you need new front discs at 36,000km. My fronts were machined and new pads fitted at 50,000km and recently new rear pads fitted at 60.000km.
SWMBO must be hard on brakes then.
Chris 2011 Discovery 4 (MY12) SDV6 HSE with General Grabber AT's, Traxide Aux Battery system, custom rear drawers and Autosafe half height cargo barrier
Gone - 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE
ARB Bull Bar, Warn 9.5XP Winch, IPF D/Lights, Cooper STT's, LR Raised Air Intake, Traxide aux battery system, custom drawers and half height Autosafe cargo barrier, Mitchell Bros 4x4 tow hitch
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| 9th Nov 2007 4:03 am |
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simon_arch1
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 502
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I'll be quizzing them hard at collection time 
MLR have normally been pretty good at not ripping one off too much... Maybe profits are down this month 
Jamo - being where you are, I'd expect your brakes to last longer, whereas we're in stop-start traffic most days...
hmmm
Simon D3 - Buckingham Blue, SE, TDV6, 06 model; chipped; underbody armour; Mickey Thompson ATZ 275/65-18 AND MAXXIS Bighorn muddies; rear wheel carrier from 4x4intelligence.com; iPOD aux connection! GME 3200 UHF - aerial mounted on wheel carrier ; LR roof rails/cross bars; Autosafe cargo barrier, Safari Snorkel; Traxide - aux battery; ARB bull bar with Tigerz11 winch; Lightforce 240 XGT driving lights (mitchell bros tow hitch to come)
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| 9th Nov 2007 4:36 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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I would be careful before paying them Simon. Ask to see the old parts.
One of my pads went, on a non sensor wheel, went down to the metal (iron filings ont e wheel) They just machined it. I thought it may need a new disc but they said the D3 ones are thicker and last longer than the D2.
Good luck.  “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 9th Nov 2007 6:18 am |
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lr1
Member Since: 09 Nov 2005
Location: Crash and Burn
Posts: 156
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Here is how to change them youself.
Changed mine at, front and rear pads, (27,000 miles) the job was very straightforward 15mins a wheel from wheel off to back on. BTW you need 13 and 17mm spanners for the front. I used a small G Clamp to push in the pistons and a small piece of wood cut to size to press the two pistons in place, otherwise one comes out as you press the other in.
The wiring for the 2 brake wear sensors is crazy with the wire disappearing behind the plastic wheel arch liner at the front and I have no idea where to at the rear! (My view is that it is the time LR take to do this which adds to the labout cost.)
Rather than replace the sensors I cut the wires stripped the ends, twisted and taped them, cable tied them back on I visually check my brake linings often anyway.
I do have replacement sensor cables and at some future date am going to splice the wire, and put a suitable connector closer to the brake to make changing easier, something LR should have done (eg. like Porsche).
Gareth set out instructions some time age which I updated slightly.
Tools required;
Good jack and stands, wheel brace, 13mm spanner, 15mm spanner 17mm spanner, Pliers, brake cleaner, brake grease, piston retraction tool or small block of wood and g-clamp.
1. Securely jack the car onto axle stands and remove front wheels
2. On the left hand side, use pliers to pull the pad wear sensor off the pad
3. Remove the 13 mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper frame (use the 15mm spanner, rear, 17mm spanner front, to hold the sliding joints whilst you undo the caliper bolts)
4. Discard the caliper bolts (new ones are in the kit)
5. Lift off the caliper and support, take care not to strain the brake pipe and wires.
6. Remove and discard the old pads. (Front and rear pads are different, Front has 2 piston system, rear has 1)
7. Remove and discard the pad support springs (new ones in kit)
8. Use piston compression tool to fully retract pistons into caliper - take care and push the pistons slowly and squarely. (use a small G Clamp to push in the pistons and a small piece of wood cut to size to press the two pistons in place, otherwise one comes out as you press the other in. )
9. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
10 Fit the new support springs to the caliper frame
11 Smear a little brake grease onto the back of each pad, and a little onto the sliding surface that fits into the support spring
12 Fit the pads into the support springs (rear pads are directional chamfer goes towards the ground, ie the leading edge of disk travel for forward motion)
13 Replace brake wear sensor, refit origonal or tie back if you feel you do not need it if its still intact.
14 Replace the caliper onto the frame and use the new bolts to secure.
15 Refit road wheel
16 Pump brake pedal to prime the system.
17 Check level in brake fluid reservoir
18 Carefully road test
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| 9th Nov 2007 12:33 pm |
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