Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
The D3 does not have a timed pump unlike a D4, so there's no marks to align. I have only done them with the body off which is no stress at all. Body on is going to be awkward more than anything as far as I know. You will need a new belt and tensioner kit too, but its do-able. If you have a search of the forum there might be something on it. If not here's Disco-Mikey's link to changing the rear belt which will get you started if you decide you want to go that route.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic53674.html
Make sure the pump is for the same MY or you might have even more issues (EU4) emissions I think.
TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the knuckles!
Have to catch up on my own work now but I'll log on later for those live valuesyµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
11th Oct 2018 1:27 pm
BigAl
Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Bristol
Posts: 144
I changed the HPFP on my 2008 discovery. Follow Disco Mikey’s timing belt replacement guide. Once the wiring loom is out of the way there Is plenty of room. Worst part of the job is getting the oil separator in and out. You’ll also need a rear belt kit as well.👍
11th Oct 2018 1:58 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
I have just had all of the belts replaced, does this mean replacing again?
Did you replace with body on BigAl?
11th Oct 2018 2:08 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
PROFSR G wrote:
The D3 does not have a timed pump unlike a D4, so there's no marks to align. I have only done them with the body off which is no stress at all. Body on is going to be awkward more than anything as far as I know. You will need a new belt and tensioner kit too, but its do-able. If you have a search of the forum there might be something on it. If not here's Disco-Mikey's link to changing the rear belt which will get you started if you decide you want to go that route.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic53674.html
Make sure the pump is for the same MY or you might have even more issues (EU4) emissions I think.
TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the knuckles!
Have to catch up on my own work now but I'll log on later for those live values
Readings attached. Hope this helps 😁
11th Oct 2018 2:55 pm
KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
if the rear belt is changed recently you are ok, you need only a way to prestress the tensioner. in any case the rear set is dead cheap from Day so you can buy it again. of course the body is on this is not a body of procedure. as said above the difficulty is the oil separator it just needs a little bit of playing around.
11th Oct 2018 2:56 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
If you've just done the belts then you are OK no need to replace again. If you have done them yourself then you already know half the job I know you are very anxious to have the car back on the road but could this be another FRPS affair!! Throwing parts at a problem is really not a good way to solve an issue. Sure, you can be lucky sometimes but lets have a look at the live values before you take that leap.
One thing which might help you decide on the HPFP is whether or not you found any debris in the bottom of the tank when you first removed it to replace the LPFP. Specifically any brass swarf, or if you have an old fuel filter you could cut it open to see if any brass debris is in there. If you have / do find it then its kaput for the pump!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
11th Oct 2018 3:04 pm
BigAl
Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Bristol
Posts: 144
Yes, all done with the body on. I used the old belt to hold the pulley still whilst undoing the nut on the pump shaft plus my belt was due for change anyway.
11th Oct 2018 3:27 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
OK I'm just going to zoom in on two things. 1. The volume control valve 53% which seems to high to me. The other anomaly is pedal sensor 2 showing 0v. The PCV looks fine at 13% but I would like another opinion on the first two items if anyone can assist. I think you can do a resistance test on the valves in the pump but I am not certain of the correct values.
As regards the pedal sensors I believe there should be something like 0.25v on pedal sensor two at idle. As you push the throttle the values rise til around 33% of pedal where the values should then equalise between pedal sens 1 and 2 all the way up to 99% of pedal. (if that makes any sense)
There of course a possibility of dirt or debris in the valve! I don't suppose the car was accidentally filled with petrol in the past? If it was it can result in pump damage but I'm wondering now if some dirt/debris got through to the VCV.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
11th Oct 2018 4:07 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
PROFSR G wrote:
If you've just done the belts then you are OK no need to replace again. If you have done them yourself then you already know half the job I know you are very anxious to have the car back on the road but could this be another FRPS affair!! Throwing parts at a problem is really not a good way to solve an issue. Sure, you can be lucky sometimes but lets have a look at the live values before you take that leap.
One thing which might help you decide on the HPFP is whether or not you found any debris in the bottom of the tank when you first removed it to replace the LPFP. Specifically any brass swarf, or if you have an old fuel filter you could cut it open to see if any brass debris is in there. If you have / do find it then its kaput for the pump!
I have done 2 filters recently, one just the other day when I replaced it with a geniune one as u had advised, the previous one which has only been on a few weeks is in the garage still and I will have a look see if it has anything in it, the older one is well away I am afraid as it got binned.
I didn't do the belts myself, the cars oil pump failed a while back and it sat for a few months waiting for me to get round to it, but I ended up putting it into a local garage to replace the ump, belts and a top end.
11th Oct 2018 4:23 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
PROFSR G wrote:
OK I'm just going to zoom in on two things. 1. The volume control valve 53% which seems to high to me. The other anomaly is pedal sensor 2 showing 0v. The PCV looks fine at 13% but I would like another opinion on the first two items if anyone can assist. I think you can do a resistance test on the valves in the pump but I am not certain of the correct values.
As regards the pedal sensors I believe there should be something like 0.25v on pedal sensor two at idle. As you push the throttle the values rise til around 33% of pedal where the values should then equalise between pedal sens 1 and 2 all the way up to 99% of pedal. (if that makes any sense)
There of course a possibility of dirt or debris in the valve! I don't suppose the car was accidentally filled with petrol in the past? If it was it can result in pump damage but I'm wondering now if some dirt/debris got through to the VCV.
It has never had petrol in it in my ownership, that being about 25k ago, I am not really keen to have to change the HPFP unless I have to tbh. I would rather not go down that road unnecessarily.
More than happy to follow your advise if you think it may be something else, especially if it is only a sensor.
11th Oct 2018 4:26 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
As far as I'm aware the sensors are part of the pump but I'm open to correction. You could try a resistance check across the terminals and see how many ohms come back. Maybe worth trying a few sharp taps with something to see it the sensors can be freed.(careful not to crack the casing) Its a wild clutch at straws really but I've seen stranger things happen.
The volume control valve looks to be too far open and so too much fuel returning to the tank instead of the fuel rail. Again, I'm open to correction.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
11th Oct 2018 5:17 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Morning PROFRS G,
So are you saying that the sensor in the HPFP may be faulty?
12th Oct 2018 9:30 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
Well I'm saying it doesn't look right to me, although to be honest I'm not totally convinced its fubared either!
Its a bit puzzling at this point. My hunch is telling me there's something else as all this was fine before work began. If you replace the pump and its still the same what then?
You posted the live values from the ECM but have you read all the other control modules as well? I would need to be certain there is nothing hiding elsewhere before I would suggest changing the pump.
If you can clear your faults and take it for one more short drive and see what pops up. Be sure to read all modules though!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
12th Oct 2018 12:52 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
I will clear all the codes in the morning and take it for a run, which modules is it I am needing to read that I have missed?
12th Oct 2018 9:59 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
Have you not read them before now?
Basically you need to read all modules connected to power train including ABS, Auto trans, Parking brake, Body control, Vehicle Dynamics, Transfer Case, Ride Level, All Terrain, etc!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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I know you are very anxious to have the car back on the road but could this be another FRPS affair!! Throwing parts at a problem is really not a good way to solve an issue. Sure, you can be lucky sometimes but lets have a look at the live values before you take that leap.
