bulletman wrote:

Gday flack,

Nice write up, and am sure will make plenty of people feel a bit less stressed when they replace the casing.

Is the lip on the crank where the oil pump drive sits "FLAT" the pic you showed seems to suggest so.. If I am viewing it correctly, do you need to line that up on the new casing to the crank or does it self align when the plastic insert is being pushed out.

Hope that make's sense, but on all the engine;s i;ve worked on there is usually a key drive ( as you mentioned ).

Thanks again for the "How to"


Cheers

Bulletman

Thats what the plastic locking ring does, it keeps the drive ring lined up while you locate the casing, If you look at the picture the drive in the casing is a horse shoe shape and this is replicated on the crankshaft,.

Yes not having a key way on the crankshaft threw me at first I thought it had dropped off in the sump, but there is no slot in the crankshaft for it to fit..

Flack

Bodsy wrote:

Top man Mick

Any chance You can keep hold if that casing. If I needed it for further analysis?

I am keeping hold of the casing but I am going to get it crack detected at work to see if there is any sign of a fracture.


Flack

Disco_Mikey wrote:

Good write up

Is the crank-locking tool man enough to hold the crankshaft while you tighten up the pulley?

Presume there is no thread-lock etc on the bolt either?

Which one bud my home made one or the one in the kit with the pins, my home made tool worked a treat and I had a 2 foot beef bar and a piece of steel box section 3 foot long to tighten the lower crankshaft bolt up. there is no thread lock on the bolt that I could see, but LR recommend you replace the bolt, its a long one its over 3 inches long.

Also on the older engines I used to work on you could undo this bolt by jamming a spanner on the bolt/nut on to the chassis and flicking the starter motor to undo them, but if you tried it the LR engine you would trash the engine as the lower pulley has no locating spline/key way on it.

I was thinking this could be a possible cause of some failed engines if this pulley spins bang goes your engine, just a thought..

Flack

Flack wrote:

Guys just done this how to today located in my gallery..I have done this because of all the cam belt tensioners that have failed because of the oil pump casing breaking in this position.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...sioner.pdf

Flack

Thanks Flack, changed my pump a few days ago and great help. Like yourself and others mentioned mine was a 56 plate that the pump remained the same and should not have been a problem. Looking at the old pump the tensioner mounting point looked fine with no signs of stress or cracks. But at least some peace of mind now although it was a pain having to strip out the cam belt change I had just done. With regard to the locking of the crankshaft I chickened out and brought the tool that goes in the starter hole from Bosch, glad that I did because like you pointed out that crank bolt is tight!!..

One thing that I did notice though is that when I fitted the new oil pump seal it sat further back in the housing than the original one. Thinking nothing of it I rebuilt the engine but sitting at home over the holiday looking at my Haynes workshop manual it specifically states that the seal must only be seated 1mm below the face of the oil pump or the seal drain holes will be blocked. I have a feeling that I looked at the old pump at the time and there was a drain hole at the bottom of the seal but even with the seal fully in up against the machined opening the drain was still clear.

Have you or anyone else had a problem with this? or will I have to strip this lot down again

Thanks Jack

Flack wrote:

jack2006

That 1mm step is critical if its not there then your seal will leak after a short while. If you tap the seal in to far it covers most of the oil drain hole in the casing, this causes a back flow of oil that the seal can't handle so it starts to leak.
You need a leave the seal about 1mm proud of the casing.

Flack

Looks like a strip down again

Thanks Flack,

Jack

jack2006 wrote:

Flack wrote:

jack2006

That 1mm step is critical if its not there then your seal will leak after a short while. If you tap the seal in to far it covers most of the oil drain hole in the casing, this causes a back flow of oil that the seal can't handle so it starts to leak.
You need a leave the seal about 1mm proud of the casing.

Flack

Looks like a strip down again

Thanks Flack,

Jack

Jack

If it is not leaking then you should be ok just keep a check on it and see.

Flack

Flack wrote:

jack2006 wrote:

Flack wrote:

jack2006

That 1mm step is critical if its not there then your seal will leak after a short while. If you tap the seal in to far it covers most of the oil drain hole in the casing, this causes a back flow of oil that the seal can't handle so it starts to leak.
You need a leave the seal about 1mm proud of the casing.

Flack

Looks like a strip down again

Thanks Flack,

Jack

Jack

If it is not leaking then you should be ok just keep a check on it and see.

Flack