Recent MoT highlighted that OSR disk was showing signs of having been hot, but neither MoT tester nor myself found it hot when checking after driving. I have on occasion noticed a minor squeak when starting out for the day, but it went away after just a few metres each time.
However ... since then I've felt on a couple of occasions that car pulls slightly left on initial application of brakes but sorts itself out.
Last Thursday, it was a noticeable there was a delay in full braking force coming on AND when I reversed shortly afterwards, the squeal was much louder than previous instances (and wouldn't normally have happened at all having already driven for a while).
So I've spoken to the garage and will get it done in a week or so when slot is available.
Suggestion is it's going to be a new caliper and I get it that that's best/safest/quickest fix (although if I was up to doing it myself, I'd do a refurb).
The real question is should I also get the flexi-hose done at same time ? car is now 11 years old and I doubt they've ever been done, but is it adding a load of time/expense to the job ? would I need to get both sides done ?
Any thoughts/advice oh wise ones ?.
Dean
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2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
20th Feb 2022 10:28 am
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6769
The brake hoses are relatively easy to change. You’ll have to bleed the system anyway so there is not much time being added with that. If you intend to keep the vehicle forever just get a set of stainless steel braided hoses. HEL makes a D3/D4 kit which includes everything and you get to choose the color
I would recommend changing all the hoses at the same time but that’s just me. DIY it’ll be an 1 - 1 1/2 h to change.
I got a brand new caliper from AF delivered in a few days to here, so I’d assume you can get one faster there
I don’t think it’s worth to refurbish a caliper yourself but YMMV of course. In my case they would not have been, I mean.
20th Feb 2022 10:37 am
Sylvester19
Member Since: 17 Jul 2020
Location: Central Scotland
Posts: 132
Problem could be as simple as the caliper slide pins needing regreased/replaced if they've never been done.
Older cars regardless of make, the brake pipe is usually rusted within the brake fitting and the whole lot turns when you try to remove it from the flexible hose, then its a new pipe or repair as well.
21st Feb 2022 12:31 am
galwaygreen
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
not worth the hassle...your trying to stop 2.7 tons...just fit new and ride with confidence...if you tow the load is far more clearly
21st Feb 2022 12:38 am
Farmer Chalk
Member Since: 06 Mar 2013
Location: Independent Republic of Kentishshire.
Posts: 4197
I would also inspect the brake lines just north of the flexible pipes as well… specifically check the lines where they are clipped to the body… there is normally a foam liner which protects them but retains water which make them rust.. if yours are original then they probably need doing!
21st Feb 2022 4:49 am
Bicycle repairman
Member Since: 18 Sep 2019
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 188
I've found recently that sometimes its not the calliper sticking or the slider pins but the pads themselves sticking in the carriers rust builds up under the slider plate causing the pads to get stuck easy fix pull pads out and slider plate and clean off rust, 3 cars in one week FL2 RRS and D3 all same problem all O/S/RD4 GS let the retro fit begin
Heated steering wheel
Aftermarket TPMS
Double Din head unit satnav and TV
Reverse Camera
Cubby fridge
Door panel upgrade
Mood lighting
Digital Dash personalised
Back lit sun visors
4.5 Facelift front, rear and memory mirrors
Stainless bumper tread plate
6 pot Brembo conversion
HSE heated memory seats
Retro fit auto lights and wipers
LR 663 Defender alloys
275 45 20 GG AT3s
quarter of a D3
Garage had a cancellation and called me earlier, so it's gone in today. Caliper that turned up is genuine LR part ... but it's on an exchange basis so bang goes my idea of cleaning the old one up and sticking it on eBay
I've found recently that sometimes its not the calliper sticking or the slider pins but the pads themselves sticking in the carriers rust builds up under the slider plate causing the pads to get stuck easy fix pull pads out and slider plate and clean off rust, 3 cars in one week FL2 RRS and D3 all same problem all O/S/R
It had new pads/discs all round about 12 months ago so unlikely to be the issue here.
problem was piston seized in caliper ... brakepads shot, so new set on the back wheels.
£160 all in.
My "bargain" wheel nuts turned out not to be a bargain ... mechanic tried them but "they don't feel right" and put the old ones back on. Have to see if eBay will refund.
1st Mar 2022 11:26 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4540
^^^
I had that in my 'IFTYS' book
Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
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... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
