Member Since: 30 Dec 2005
Location: Helsinki area
Posts: 74
Brake calibre maintenance / jamming pad
We have curently a bit challenging climate conditions here in Finland as temperature is changing up and down from +2c to -20c.
Inner right front pad of my D3 was slighlty stucked with screeching sound. I took her into well ventilated parking hall for few hours, made couple of hard kick brakings and problem solved. However, I'm a bit conserned if it will occur again as variable temperatures will apparentily continue.
What kind of maintenance there should be done for brakes (dismounting needed, fluids, tools, ets.)? My baby is still on original pads, she's done by now 125kkm and has it's fifth birthday this month.
Thanks in advance for your guidance!
16th Jan 2011 7:44 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Can't believe you have 125000km on your first set of pads!
Brake bible is in the link below, but I'd suggest you need to exercise the caliper a little more by pushing the piston back squarely and then re-fitting.
It may not be the caliper sticking, but the brake caliper carrier needing some cleaning and coppergrease.
Or the extreme temperature making the tolerances too tight. Although should be able to cope.Bodsys Brake Bible
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16th Jan 2011 9:13 pm
ArcFro
Member Since: 30 Dec 2005
Location: Helsinki area
Posts: 74
WOW, what a bible Bobsy, thanks a lot for it! I did some searching prior to my posting, should have used key word: bible.
In 96kkm service technician said that there is some 70% left on the pads but due to salty conditions in our "southern" roads inner part of the pads needed treatment and take care of lubrication cylinders. Naturally I forgot almost immediatelly all of that until yesterday...
I do tend to have adaptive driving style, quick flick for the steering wheel, powersliding through corners, no brakes applied...
I guess you can get 125000 on a set of pad if you don't use the brakes it may explain why the problems
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
17th Jan 2011 2:37 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
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getting on for 5 years of driving, I'd probably want to change the pads anyway. Surely they must break down over time?
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17th Jan 2011 2:41 pm
ArcFro
Member Since: 30 Dec 2005
Location: Helsinki area
Posts: 74
To confuse you even further, I'm trailing during summer season approx 1t boat across country a bit here and there.
But seriously, is there maximum life span for pads to be changed, regardless how much they have been worn out? I did have a look in bible and discs in my D3 are in much better condition than ones to replaced in instructions.
I'm a bit worried though, as I'm trailing a relatively heavy boat and most certainly do not want to have any safety issues for brakes. Should I get them changed anyway? Is it ok to change just pads or should it be whole smash at once? How much is it worth in €?
17th Jan 2011 8:11 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
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Posts: 21361
Personally I'd change the pads only, but perhaps CG can offer more brake component advice?Bodsys Brake Bible
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17th Jan 2011 8:42 pm
SN
Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
Location: Romiley
Posts: 13710
stuffed my back pads today I ignored the flickery light over the last few weeks as I thought it was my bodge undoing on the front ones in the summer and got the dreaded grating noise from the rear tonight 100yds from home...Steve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)
18th Jan 2011 1:07 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
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18th Jan 2011 10:59 am
stapldm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
Bodsy wrote:
...brake calliper carrier needing some cleaning and copper-grease....
Just to add extra clarity here from someone who long ago took this excellent advice the wrong way...
Copper-grease goes just between the back of the brake pad and the calliper piston face, or in the slots that the brake pad tabs slide in and out of within the calliper carrier.
There are two calliper slide bolts (covered with a rubber boot, you undo the bolt off one of them to swing the calliper out of the way to change the pads) that most definitely never ever should get copper-grease on them (yep, been there ).
Copper-grease is very abrasive and if you use it on these slide bolts you will need a whole new calliper set.
I believe from possibly failing memory that the slide bolts require lithium LM grease, and check the rubber gaiters/boots for splits as if water/dirt has got in there then you can also experience pads sticking (pads usually stick on just the one side for a sticky slide bolt). On some slide bolts if you over grease them then they will restrict the slide action; not checked this car so don't know for certain but make sure the slide easily slides
If both pads are stuck on, it's more likely to be the calliper piston sticking. Again check the rubber gaiter/boot protecting the piston for splits and dirt ingress, but the only lubricant ever to be used on a piston and its seal is brake fluid.Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
I believe from possibly failing memory that the slide bolts require lithium LM grease,
The slides may, the bolt (thread) are factory fitted with a microencapsulated patch (Scotchgrip2353) which locks these in place, you will need to apply a suitable Loctite ie 620 to hold these in.
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
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it may explain why the problems 
I ignored the flickery light over the last few weeks as I thought it was my bodge undoing on the front ones in the summer and got the dreaded grating noise from the rear tonight 100yds from home...
).
