Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
Big Mistake with the EPB
I had a real brain fault.
With the right rear disc off and the star adjuster retracted all the way, I made the mistake of trying to engage the parking brake. The other side was all put together. Of course it grinded and screeched and faulted with a flashing PB light and I quickly pulled the key from the ignition.
Now I imagine I'm in for a full rear brake and EPB module removal. What say you?
19th Apr 2024 8:53 pm
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
I think I'm going to answer my own question here and say that I can partially remove the module and rewind it inside.
I don't have a GAP tool..
Am I heading in the correct direction with this? And if so, will the manual rewind inside the module itself retract the shoes and allow me to put the drum back on?
20th Apr 2024 2:39 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10773
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
Pete, that is a great help and I followed the guide to the letter so far. However, mine was a bit different inside. The metal latch he talks about is attached, not unclipped like the one pictured. I have taken the tension off at the wheel by removing the cables from the shoes but I am wondering if it will still wind back manually with the screwdriver. I have an electronic rear diff motor in the way so it is difficult to do but I think I can. Every winding procedure I've seen shows the latch not attached to the left, white plastic part.
22nd Apr 2024 5:28 pm
matthews
Member Since: 06 Sep 2017
Location: Leeds
Posts: 12
If it's wound itself fully out it can be stiff to get it to start winding back , (very stiff), once you've managed to get it started it'll eas up a lot , at least that's what i've found on the few i've done .
24th Apr 2024 8:13 pm
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
So if it's fully tight at the right rear drum, I'm still going to be turning the brass downward (counterclockwise) to take tension off like in the linked guide above, right?
Yes the brass wheel needs to be turned downwards, I always found it easier to turn if you can unbolt the module and tilt it forward, its gives you more wriggle room did you pull the emergency release cable as well. Some of them go with a bang when jammed on.
Flack
25th Apr 2024 7:13 am
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
I did one better and ripped the rubber boots at the top (on accident) while trying to pry that siliconed lid off. So I will try it tilted forward. But yes, I tried the cable. There is zero corrosion as the vehicle is from southern New Mexico and it's very dry here, but the cable would not release the jammed module.
Thanks for the help.
25th Apr 2024 4:47 pm
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
For those following along, the "jam" was released at the wheel by removing the cables from the secondary shoe. I can now pull on right rear cable to retract left rear and vice versa. I can also reach into the EPB module and move the white plastic piece with brass rod back and forth easily, which pushes and pulls on the cables. Is that too easy or is it normal?
You need to make sure the brass rod is wound right off in the module, if not you will not get the drums back on. Back everything off completely then follow the brake bible set everything backup.
Don't worry about the module rubber mounts I have seen plenty over the years with the mounts ripped off, the module is going nowhere with a cable at each side centering it.
Flack
26th Apr 2024 7:25 am
itsmywheelhouse
Member Since: 12 Apr 2024
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 28
I'm back at it after a hiatus replacing the wheel bearing.
I have the left rear wheel parking brake reassembled and adjusted. My problem is, the right rear parking brake cable is retracted into the spring at the backer plate, probably so tight the drum won't go back on as Flack suggested. The following photo I grabbed from the "How To - EPB repair/Unjam + Relatch" thread on this forum.
However, with mine, the metal latch is still engaged to the white plastic mechanism but the whole assembly is over to the right, pulling the right rear brake cable tight.
Click image to enlarge
I'm thinking that in order to take tension off the right rear cable, I will have to unlatch here, pull the white box mechanism all the way to the left per the instructional, manually rewind the brass toward it, and finish by relatching it again. If that is correct, how do I break the connection here?
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