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Battery maintenance charging with a Ctek 5
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viethson
 


Member Since: 13 Jan 2009
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 136

Germany 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto BournvilleDiscovery 4

Hi everyone
I have a MY10 D4 and the Traxide DBS. I was getting low batt warnings when using the park heater last winter so I turned the BMS off in the CCF with my faultmate ("BMS not fitted"). No issues with the park heater anymore and car starts just fine. I think the warning threshold was just slightly too high.
But with the BMS out of the game what is now telling the car when and how much to charge the batt?
I am also doing a lot of short drives around 20 min. With the Traxide system and both batts charging together at the same time is the time to replace the charge used to start the car now regained in half the time?
Also can I reset the BMS with a faultmate or will it reset itself by simply turning it back on?

@drivesafe: so happy to have you on the forum, learning so much every day Thumbs Up
 Life in the slow lane  
Post #136144820th Oct 2014 6:10 pm
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jobster
 


Member Since: 08 Jul 2012
Location: Hilversum
Posts: 591

Netherlands 2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Unknown ColourDiscovery 3

barryp wrote:
Robbie,
Does using a charger change the memory in the new LR vehicle battery charging and energy recovery system?
Asking this as when you replace the battery they recommend that you clear the memory with a GAP IID tool etc. , so does the charging impact the memory of the in vehicle system.
Regards
Barry


Forgive me for asking a potentially dumb question, but where can I find it in the IID-tool menu (deos it say clear BMS?) and is it still useful to do as I have changed the battery 3 months ago on my 2009 D3.
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Post #136148520th Oct 2014 7:12 pm
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Robbie
 


Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932

United Kingdom 2013 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 4

You've wandered into the D4 section - there is no BMS on a D3.

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Post #136215221st Oct 2014 9:25 pm
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drivesafe
 


Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867

Australia 

Hi jobster, as Robbie posted, no BMS in D3s or in 2.7lt D4s.
 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7  
Post #136225922nd Oct 2014 5:24 am
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cecilh
 


Member Since: 17 Jul 2012
Location: Johannesburg
Posts: 13

South Africa 2013 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 S Auto Alaska WhiteDiscovery 4

Hi Drivesafe you state ..."The dealership has finally done a reboot and so far his voltage levels are back up in the low 14v at times" Please can you clarify what they re-booted? I am having similar issues (MY13) and can confirm that during long trips especially the voltage drops to 12.1 for extended periods. This does concern me as during these types of trips not much re-generative charging takes place.
I've just checked voltages on my D4 and my wifes D3 - both been standing for a day and D3 does mostly very short trips - D3 = 12.7v, D4 = 12.1v! I personally think this BMS sucks.
  
Post #136576329th Oct 2014 4:36 pm
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drivesafe
 


Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867

Australia 

Hi cecilh, and beyond repeating what my customer told me, sorry I can’t be of much assistance to you.

The customer had a problem, and after much deliberation, the dealer carried out a reboot, or software upgrade, not sure exactly what was done, but if you are experiencing such low voltages, see if the dealer can find out if there is some upgrade or patch available, from LR in the UK.

BTW folks, here is warning about jump starting your D4 if you end up with a flat cranking battery.

The normal operation when connecting jumper leads to ANY disabled vehicle, is to first connect the positive lead to the cranking battery’s positive ( + ) terminal, and for safety reasons, the negative lead MUST BE CONNECTED TO AN EARTH POINT AWAY FROM THE BATTERY.

The Negative lead should never be connected to the cranking battery’s negative ( - ). This is to avoid the possibility of a spark being created and igniting any hydrogen.

This is only part of how to connect jumper leads but there seems to be a problem where people have not known to connect the negative lead somewhere other than the cranking battery’s negative ( - ) terminal.

They have connected positive lead to the cranking battery’s positive ( + ) terminal and the negative lead to the cranking battery’s negative ( - ) terminal and jump started their D4.

This has resulted in a damaged sensor on the D4’s cranking battery’s earth lead.

I have absolutely no idea how this could damage the sensor, but a couple of dealer’s service people have informed me that they had to replace damaged sensor leads, "supposedly", after the owners carried out an incorrect jump start on their D4.

This is not the correct way to connect jumper leads in the first place but do it right and avoid another potential problem.
 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7  
Post #136625330th Oct 2014 11:21 am
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