My airbag light is coming on pretty much every time. According to my IID, this is the cause:
B0002-1B (AF) Driver's frontal stage 2 - deployment control - General electrical failure - circuit resistance above threshold
Now to me that suggests I need to be wiggling a plug, particularly, as three months ago, the front seats and entire dashboard came out to facilitate a replacement heater matrix. Which is fair enough, there were doubtless of lot of plugs involved.
But which plug and where is it?
Thank you!
29th Mar 2021 6:32 pm
john watson
Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: lanark
Posts: 956
There is a block connector under the drivers seat. Held together by a screw. When I had an air bag warning light come on l looked at this first. Separated it and checked for corrosion . All was good . Turned out to be a communications error. Cleared the codes and everything OK. Hope this helps.Once you have defeated the idiots any job is half done. Pity there are so many idiots to defeat.
30th Mar 2021 8:41 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
If the under seat plugs don't sort it I suspect you may be looking for a new control unit.
What is IID providing for "live data" readings in the airbag ecu?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
30th Mar 2021 1:01 pm
JackNorris
Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Beds/Bucks Border
Posts: 1877
Pretty sure this was my error before I changed the ecuMY2023 Discovery 5 R-Dynamic 3.0
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30th Mar 2021 9:13 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
PROFSR G wrote:
If the under seat plugs don't sort it I suspect you may be looking for a new control unit.
What is IID providing for "live data" readings in the airbag ecu?
Hi mate
Plus 1, that’s what i done when I had airbag issues , looking in the gap iid live date and shows every airbags ohm readings , will never forget that fun replacing curtain and seat airbags
Don’t mind adding the gap iid certainly paid for itself that day as it even allowed me to reset the crash data error message
Hope ur good buddy
30th Mar 2021 11:57 pm
Mike_A4
Member Since: 25 May 2018
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 75
Live values proved to be key.
Initially they were all good and no fault to be found, even though I was jogging the black connector block. The fault appeared as soon as I moved the steering wheel - it was the driver’s airbag circuit. Having popped the airbag out of the steering wheel, the cause was obvious as the yellow wire on the right-hand connector was on its last strand, hence the fluctuating values... and then no strands at all, leaving a constant 10 ohm live value instead of the more normal 2 - 3 ohm range.
Annoyingly the only way to get one of these 2” looms is to buy a new “clock spring”, but the garage have offered to do that since they've only recently re-fitted the dashboard. One of those things.
So, cause identified and, soon, sorted... and rather satisfying to find it’s an easy fix in time for the MOT.
Last edited by Mike_A4 on 1st Apr 2021 6:29 am. Edited 1 time in total
31st Mar 2021 11:04 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi
That’s great u found it and indeed that’s what also helped me regarding the live values
Awesome that it helped , plus the gap iid paying for itself time and time again
31st Mar 2021 11:46 pm
Mike_A4
Member Since: 25 May 2018
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 75
Oh FFS.
I've just replaced the clockspring. And I now have the opposite fault - too low a resistance in the circuit (0.3 ohm).
Hopefully the eBay seller will ship a replacement replacement without wanting the dud one back first, otherwise this is going to become a well-practised procedure.
2nd Apr 2021 6:28 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Did you fully push the plugs home ?
The gold springs short the terminals together if you don’t
2nd Apr 2021 6:44 pm
Mike_A4
Member Since: 25 May 2018
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 75
Good suggestion, thank you.
I've just been out, powered down, popped the airbag, unplugged and re-plugged
Still 0.3 Ohm. Dammit.
Fortunately the supplier have agreed to send me another before having to return the dud.
3rd Apr 2021 10:23 am
Mike_A4
Member Since: 25 May 2018
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 75
The second replacement has actually cured it. I'm now a dab hand at discharging the power, popping out the airbag, removing the steering wheel, removing the steering column shroud, removing the clock-spring, refitting the clock-spring, refitting the shroud, refitting the steering wheel, connecting the airbag, refitting the airbag, reconnecting the battery… and then enjoying the moment of the airbag warning light going out and, at last, staying out.
And: relax…
7th Apr 2021 7:03 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
That’s awesome news mate
Nothing like having ur heart in ur mouth moment awaiting that light to go out , felt the same when I had to replace a seat airbag , Massive sigh of relief for u
Thanks for keeping us updated
7th Apr 2021 7:20 pm
Mike_A4
Member Since: 25 May 2018
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 75
This has turned into a monumental pain the whosit.
I’m now on my fourth clock spring.
The first replacement had a short-circuit on one of the two airbag circuits, so the supplier sent a second. That had an open circuit. So I was lucky to find a new genuine item going for £70 on eBay. I fitted that and all was well for 30 miles before the fault light came back on. So another strip down revealed one of the orange wires was out of the captive plug, pretty much my original issue all those (two) weeks ago. Despite it being listed as their “last one”, that seller sent out another genuine item…. and that one is still working.
There really does seem to be a quality issue here and I’m now fairly certain that all the faults stem from the same thing - the four airbag wires leaving the captive plug of this unit. Whoever decided to make what is clearly a push-in connector captive needs a poke in the eye. All the button circuits use a short loom with a plug on each end, but not the airbag system - the one that can make an MOT difficult requires full removal and replacement which, in turn, risks causing repeat failures or other new ones.
Not turning the steering wheel. That’s the long-term solution!
27th Apr 2021 7:32 am
nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4142
I have a spare clock spring if you need another one and I'm fairly close I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
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27th Apr 2021 9:01 am
Mike_A4
Member Since: 25 May 2018
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 75
I DON'T B----Y BELIEVE IT!
This one's now died in exactly the same way after less than two months. Clearly, all the OEM and "Genuine" items are coming out of the same factory with the same wiring fault already built in to them, so there's f-all point in paying for Genuine parts. It doesn't matter if it's £35, £75 or £175 plus VAT with the LR logo on the shell - they're all out of the same factory.
And it's such a needless fault - just terminate the bloody wires in the captive connector properly, it really isn't that difficult if you've bothered to set the jig up correctly. Because, as it clearly isn't, it means the yellow wire is either secure but there's no wire in the crimp, or there is wire in the crimp but it isn't secure and promptly breaks off. And there's no way of getting into the connector to correct either issue afterwards.
Right. Another session of powering the car down, removing the air bag, removing the steering wheel, removing the column shroud, removing the clock-spring and then putting it all back together and powering up again to see the same defect yet again...
Does anyone have a known good used one they'd like to sell?
Last edited by Mike_A4 on 23rd Jun 2021 12:58 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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felt the same when I had to replace a seat airbag , Massive sigh of relief for u
