Member Since: 29 Mar 2008
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 147
Air suspension issues
Yesterday the wife had issues with the disco, as the ride height wouldn’t move, stuck in standard ride height, wouldn’t go down.
I went out to ut today, and the ride height worked on all settings,typical.
So I plugged in the GAP and the following was all the errors:-
L319 - Discovery 4 2010
Vehicle scanned on 02-12-2020 13:58
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742
ABS-Brake Module
U0421-68 (28) Invalid data received from ride level control module - Algorithm based failure - event information
( on 03-10-2020 08:01:03 at 146635 mi )
ACM-Audio System
U0159-00 (2A) Lost communication with parking assist control module
( on 02-12-2020 13:54:28 at 147177 mi )
BCM-Body Control
B112C-96 (2F) Interior motion sensor - Component failure - internal failure
( on 02-10-2020 18:47:36 at 146635 mi )
B10AD-09 (2F) Rain sensor - General failure information - component failure
( on 02-10-2020 18:40:19 at 146635 mi )
FEM-Navigation
B119F-13 (2C) GPS antenna - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 30-11-2020 14:34:43 at 147149 mi )
IPC-Instrument Pack
B1A85-96 (28) Ambient light sensor circuit - Component failure - internal failure
( on 03-10-2020 18:25:42 at 146652 mi )
RLM-Suspension
C1131-92 (28) Air supply - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
( on 03-10-2020 17:59:17 at 146643 mi )
C1A20-64 (28) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 03-10-2020 08:01:03 at 146635 mi )
I’m thinking that the compressor might be in it’s way out?
Cheers allOwner of a 2010 Discovery 4 XS.
Plus a Mitsubishi Outlander (don’t ask...)
2nd Dec 2020 2:23 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5092
Yes, it's likely the compressor, or a small leak in the air reservoir. You could try rebuilding the drier with new desiccant and filters which usually this sorts the problem.
Check the integrity of the reservoir first for leaks, but you should do it anyway!
There's plenty of info posted on the above if you do a search yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
2nd Dec 2020 2:59 pm
goodo
Member Since: 04 Dec 2018
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 107
Re: Air suspension issues
denny crane wrote:
C1A20-64 (28) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 03-10-2020 08:01:03 at 146635 mi )
I’m thinking that the compressor might be in it’s way out?
Cheers all
As it would happen, I’ve spent the day rebuilding the air compressor on our 2010 D4. I also had a C1A20 code. I got a refurb kit from 4x4airseals.co.uk plus a kit to deal with the seized inlet valves, one of which was stuck.
The hardest bit was dealing with a siezed bolt Holding the bottom cover on.
There are three and the one at the back had been replaced with a 6m hex head which had taken years of corrosion from the rear wheel and wasn’t going anywhere. After I Removed the rear near side wheel I managed to hacksaw it off, And prize the clip out. Those clips are designed to be able to remove after years of corrosion. Neat design. It fell inside the box section but I managed to recover using my pinky. Don’t want any rattling!
The 4x4 air seals kit was £110, and I bought some new stainless mounting bolts for £11, so all in the rebuild cost me £121 And an afternoon off duty from the kids lying under the car. It was like the good old days. Certainly better than the £650 Plus £170 labour the garage quoted.
If you’re interested, the compressor was in good condition, but as I had the seals kit I replaced them all anyway - piston, exhaust valve, and serviced the solenoid and refreshed the desiccant in the dryer.
The air dryer was the only thing that was in a bad way - that and the inlet pipe which was siezed in the quick release coupling. Most of the silica gel granules were in good condition, but there was some caking of the filters at the bottom which is probably what was causing the DTC. I probably could have got away with a simple dryer rebuild, but I thought if I’m going to the effort of taking it off the car, and this is our main family car, so I may as well do a full service on the thing and give it another 5-10 years life.
The plastic valve head - which often cracks causing leaks, was fine, but I replaced it with the 4x4airseals replacement one. It is slightly thicker than the original and makes reattaching the the top bolt of the compressor cradle back onto the chassis a bit tighter. I used a ratchet spanner and got there in the end.
I’ll take the car for a long test drive tomorrow, and see if the light comes on. If it does there’s a blockage elsewhere. I’m not anticipating any issues but we’ll see. Then I’ll be off to see my buddy with his iCarsoft LR tool to reset the DTC code, assuming all is well.
The D3 early D4 Have the hitachi compressor fitted.
There’s videos on the website for you to follow so it’s not that hard to do. I don’t even have a vice or a tap wrench but I managed to improvise.
I see a company called X8R also makes air compressor kits. I went with 4x4airseals as their replacement cover is plastic rather than metal, And they sell the inlet repair kit, which I ended up needing.
On the Haynes spanner chart, I’d say it was a three spanner job, wth the rusty fastener And siezed connection being the main issues.
Hope you get to the bottom of the code. The detail you get from the IID TOOL is comprehensive to say the least!
Goodo
————————————————————————
So I took the car for a drive today, no warning triangle saying normal height only available, I guess it’s fixed.
5th Dec 2020 10:45 pm
goodo
Member Since: 04 Dec 2018
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 107
Interestingly I was looking in the LR workshop manual and it recommends that you change the air dryer every 75,000 miles. It’s a consumable item.
18th Dec 2020 9:32 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
CA codes/std height only, slow to rise etc etc on my AMK a few months ago, drier/filter kit off of ebay and it has been fine since.
18th Dec 2020 1:35 pm
goodo
Member Since: 04 Dec 2018
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 107
If they tell you a new compressor is required, spend 20-50 quid on the dryer and you’ll probably fix it. Our 2010 D4 has done 110k and the compressor was in very good condition, I only changed the parts because I had them in the master repair kit. If you use yours off road a lot, and on removal / dismantling it’s heavily corroded, start with the air dryer, and if that doesn’t work, you can try taking it apart, but you’re likely to snap bolts off trying to take it apart. If it’s been a road car for 10 years, replace dryer with a new one (I could get mine off actually, and snapped a strap wrench trying to remove it) or replace filters and filter media and install a new end cap.
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