Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
thk for that
with a fresh set of eyes i could see what u meant mikey with regards to the nut on the top
using different spanner’s , sockets and Irwin's the last nut came off
so thks a million to everyone who’s helped and really grateful
just cleaning the chassis up to fill in the dinotrol, treated the chassis inside and out a few months back and good to fill areas in that were covered
plus got the intercooler hose off and allowed abit more room to see
thks again and can now make some progress
10th Jan 2018 2:16 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
just finished off the dinotrol , didnt wish to push my luck because of the electrics
plus the longer spanner’s were perfect , can see against a standard sized spanner
hopefully it may be useful to some one else one way or another
no i couldn’t have got this far without this forum and just nice to try and give something back
10th Jan 2018 2:55 pm
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
Looks good mate, when you doing mine?
10th Jan 2018 3:13 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
carried on as it was nice and sunny
still got to get everything back, ie the inner liner etc
hopefully i don’t have to recalibrate the suspension as i assume the height sensors will sort it all out , but will check once i’ve done the other side
fitted the better brass pushfits on the strut and front valve block and done one of the turbo hoses, couldn’t fit the T bolt clamp on the bottom do to the intercooler being an oval shape
had enough for today , will just put the wheel on and drop it to the ground and start again fri or sat
hope the pics might help others if they undertake this job
plse would anyone be so kind if i’ve done something wrong plse , always good to get second opinions
thks
10th Jan 2018 4:39 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Sea Raider wrote:
Looks good mate, when you doing mine?
sounds like i may have to take a holiday in scotty land
10th Jan 2018 4:40 pm
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
Any time, but might be better to wait till it heats up a bit
10th Jan 2018 5:00 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
hi graham
blimey with those kind of temps i would need some antifreeze
only time i was extremely cold when i lived and worked in new york
10th Jan 2018 6:09 pm
Brucey
Member Since: 24 Oct 2015
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 137
Can you post details of the brass connectors you used on the valve block to replace the Voss ones.
11th Jan 2018 5:09 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Hi Brucey
no probs, however i’m just sorcing some others as i’ve had a few leaks on the ones i’ve ordered , if i may would prefer to ensure the new ones work perfectly before i put up a link plse
11th Jan 2018 5:51 pm
Brucey
Member Since: 24 Oct 2015
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 137
Yeah of course! Hope the new ones don’t leak on you
11th Jan 2018 6:53 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
just used some PTFE on the threads , then bubble tested the connections , found it considerably easier than messing around with the voss connectors
hope that helps
13th Jan 2018 2:24 pm
Brucey
Member Since: 24 Oct 2015
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 137
Awesome, thanks
13th Jan 2018 6:31 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
plse let me know if u find them easier
just trying to now get a socket onto the new top strut nut
13th Jan 2018 8:16 pm
snow?wotsnow?
Member Since: 01 Nov 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 23
Many thanks to Disco Mikey for this excellent thread.
The aircraft spanners were an excellent idea for the nearer 2 bolts.
I found that the 3rd bolt at the back could be worked with a 15mm hinged-end ratchet spanner (from a £20 set obtained from MachineMart), albeit that you still had to remove the heat-shields and work from above for first release and final torque when re-tightening. I did this with a 3/8 square drive into a standard 15mm socket (hex not 12-sided) on my MY05 D3, which nuts were pretty rusty after 13 years but came off without complication.
25th Mar 2018 5:09 pm
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2815
Changing all 4 of mine in May for new Dunlop’s.
Build stickers are November 2004 and currently have 172,240 miles on them.
I’ll call that a fair life and mileage. Getting done when the body is getting lifted for the final parts cannon salvo
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