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navydevildoc
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 157
  
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| Air compressor inlet filter |
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LR has got to be kidding... I am doing all sorts of maintenance as I am about to hit 75,000 miles.
One of the items is the air compressor inlet filter. This is the one in the left rear quarter panel.
The problem is, there is no freaking way any human can get this thing out, save removing all of the rear climate control bits.
It's behind a huge wire harness and the air exchanger, which itself is connected to the R-134 tubes going forward to the engine. The only way I can even see it is with a dental mirror.
Is there some secret method to getting to this  ? The manuals on GTR just say "open rear access panel, remove filter". Well no S**t... how bout the impenetrable metal and parts in the way?
If I didn't off road so much I would say "screw it", but the pain I am going through now is better than the pain of replacing a compressor that burned out.
So... any ideas? I am going to move on to the oil change while I stew on this. 2005 LR3 HSE - ARB Bumper, Warn XD9000, Custom Rock Sliders and Skid Plates, BBS Faultmate MSV-2 Extreme, Kenwood TMD-700, etc, etc,
1965 Series IIA
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 2nd Feb 2008 9:18 pm |
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navydevildoc
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 157
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Just to follow this up...
I ended up getting to the air filter. I had to remove the foam holder that usually cradles the tow hitch receiver, which also means removing most of the trim on the left rear of the vechicle. After that was out, you could see the grommet that heads out of the vehicle. I also realized there is no reason to remove the heat shield from around the exhaust, you can reach the grommet underneath with a long screwdriver to push it in. Don't forget to remove the inlet pipe from the compressor housing.
After pushing the grommet through, and with the foam block removed, you can snake your arm up behind the rear climate control system and grab the air filter. You will need to pull it forward slightly and outboard with some force to break the clip.
After you pull out the old canister, it's quick work to install the new one.
The thing is, my filter wasn't even close to being dirty. I could have easily left the old one in for another 75,000 miles.
I will be skipping this item next time around. The upside is that there is now a lot more room in the left rear trim panel where the foam block used to be; I decided to not replace it. 2005 LR3 HSE - ARB Bumper, Warn XD9000, Custom Rock Sliders and Skid Plates, BBS Faultmate MSV-2 Extreme, Kenwood TMD-700, etc, etc,
1965 Series IIA
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| 3rd Feb 2008 5:58 pm |
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NoDo$h
Member Since: 02 May 2006
Location: Finding new and exciting ways to milk badgers.
Posts: 19689
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Cheers for posting the follow-up.  I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
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| 3rd Feb 2008 7:10 pm |
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davez26
Member Since: 01 Apr 2006
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 23
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I hear you not wanting to replace this filter, BUT, back when we had the P38 Range Rover, if a compressor failed, or we needed a valve block the warranty companies would ask for documentation that the inlet filter was replaced. I think it was a cheap tactic on their part, but they could deny the claim for "lack of scheduled maintence".
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| 6th Feb 2008 11:57 pm |
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navydevildoc
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 157
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Good point. Especially with this compressor, you never know what LRNA will come up with to prevent me from exchanging it; although I think it is about out of its one year warranty from it's last replacement. 2005 LR3 HSE - ARB Bumper, Warn XD9000, Custom Rock Sliders and Skid Plates, BBS Faultmate MSV-2 Extreme, Kenwood TMD-700, etc, etc,
1965 Series IIA
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| 11th Feb 2008 9:02 pm |
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