Member Since: 28 Dec 2020
Location: Oakham
Posts: 11
Advice Please - Possible power issue
Hi everyone, I’ve an issue with my discovery (I think). I bought it over Christmas, so it’s always been the same. And without driving any others I’m not quite sure if it is a problem or it’s normal. To me, it feels like my turbo isn’t working after a cold start. Or I have quite low power. It seems to rev high (above 2500) when cold to get moderate power. Like the turbo isn’t kicking in until high revs. After ten minutes it improves and drives between 1700 and 2500, though the auto box does drop down gears for hills when cruising at 60 (normal?) I have researched this on here and here’s what I’ve done so far:
- egrs blanked, butterfly removed.
- map cleaned
- intercooler hose was split, replaced
- maf sensor was reading 140c air temp. Replaced
- turbo actuator wiggled and oiled
- propshaft replaced, centre bearing gone
- gearbox oil changed, looked like tea. Improved short gearing on the box a fair bit.
- new battery
- coolant sensor replaced (was reading correct prior but replaced anyway)
Side note: my fbh keeps locking itself out. Runs a couple times but then doesn’t start.
Car starts fine, when very cold, it rough idles a bit with some pale diesel smelling smoke. Assuming glow plugs are going.
I get EGR fault codes, but assuming this is because I’ve blanked them.
I had a engine system fault, stop, restart and fine. This was when driving from a dead cold start up a hill by my house with no warm up. Assumed fuelling issue, perhaps due to glow plugs. Did throw a fault, solenoid out of range. Cleared the code and has never happened again.
So I’m asking for advice on what to try next? I haven’t tried to look for the lower intercooler hose as can’t get to it. Is there anything I could of done whole EGR blanking that I’ve missed? I can’t see why it would be the turbo itself if fine when warm. Unless it is still down on power when warm and I’ve just known no difference. It would be beneficial to drive another one to be honest, to quench my paranoia.
It’s a 55 plate (my06 on logbook) se auto tdv6.
I’m based in Rutland, if there’s any Land Rover wizards local.
Thanks 🙏
Last edited by underdose on 5th Feb 2021 6:17 pm. Edited 1 time in total
5th Feb 2021 6:06 pm
Kilovolt
Member Since: 29 Jun 2015
Location: South Derbyshire
Posts: 1020
Having owned a D3 and a D4 I would make a couple of observations (if it helps).
1) The engine holds higher revs when cold to speed-up the heating process. Quite often (in my D4) after I have left home and quickly join an A-road, I shift the gearbox up to 8th using the paddles (in your case 6th)? The car will happily hold 7th in auto until fully warm (I believe that's what it is designed to do).
2) I find the gearbox (I have 100k miles on the clock) is very sluggish and treacly (proper engineering term ) until it gets warm. From a home start, it needs a bit more pedal to 'make her pick her skirt up' (another engineering term ).
Unless you have codes to support a failure, I am not hearing anything to untoward.
There will be some proper mechies along soon I am sure.
Good luck "Track day running - Don't put your foot back on the accelerator until your absolutely sure you don't have to take it off again"
Current Ride: D4 XS Commercial Baltic Blue SDV6 fully loaded with heated everything
Track Days: BMW E36 M3 Evolution MY 1996 (3.2 Litre 377 BHP sat in 1,250 Kgs of car, with a pro safety cage and some serious braking power)
5th Feb 2021 6:17 pm
underdose
Member Since: 28 Dec 2020
Location: Oakham
Posts: 11
Thanks Kilovolt. It may just be my paranoia. I knew autos liked to hold their gears while cold, and perhaps, hopefully it’s all just part of the engine management. I may have just gone into Land Rover ownership very sceptical.
To me, power feels flat, it revs high but there’s no oomph. What I assumed were EGR symptoms. Which is why I blanked them first.
I have taken screenshots of fault codes and live data and attached. I think. Exhaust valve is a new one.
New battery went on last night.
5th Feb 2021 6:49 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
Did you do a full 9 litres of gearbox oil or just 4.5 litres. Whichever, I would drain, remove sump and replace filter as you said the old oil was like treacle. If its the plastic sump replace it with the metal one as it is then easier to change filter down the track.
11th Feb 2021 9:25 am
underdose
Member Since: 28 Dec 2020
Location: Oakham
Posts: 11
Just to follow up on this, as I've done quite a bit since I made this thread. Problem was a slipping torque convertor. All sorted now, doesn't feel like a big lumpy diesel pretending to be a 2 stroke gp500 any more.
2nd Apr 2021 8:10 pm
munst
Member Since: 16 Sep 2020
Location: GLOS
Posts: 155
When you say slipping do you mean the lockup clutch was slipping? The gearbox won't lockup when cold.
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) until it gets warm. From a home start, it needs a bit more pedal to 'make her pick her skirt up' (another engineering term 
